I am not really sure if I want to resaw stock. Let me make sure that I know what resaw means first. From my understanding resawing stock means basically cutting it to a more narrow piece. Perhaps taking a 2x4, and cutting its 3/4x4?
Question about the jointer. If I have a piece of stock that is too wide for the jointer can it pass it over the jointer on one side, and then spin the board around and pass it over again to get a uniform thickness? It sounds feasible to me, but I don't know.
You have the idea of resawing correct... with resawing you can re-dimension lumber (esp. lumber too large for a tablesaw) as well as saw your own veneers. With resawing you will want to use wider blades (typically 1/2" for 14" bandsaw, 3/4" for 16", 1" for 18-20") with few teeth per inch (typically on the order of 2-3) with large gullets to carry away the sawdust. You also need a bandsaw with enough vertical cutting height for the widest board you wish to resaw. A typical basic 14" bandsaw has a 6" resaw height *or* 12" with an installed riser block. Many larger saws (and some 14" models) have 12" give-or-take resaw capacity. When resawing wide boards it is nice to have atleast 2-3HP, though many get by with much less but patience and technique come into play.
As for your jointer question. You can make an imperfect near-doublewide joint by passing a board over the jointer twice with American style jointers that include a rabbeting ledge ... however this is not always the case and even less so with European style jointers. You will need to finish cleaning up the double-jointed side with a followup pass through your thickness planer AFTER you plane the unjointed side first -- this cleanup pass through the planer will remove the inevitable ridge left behind by the two passes. The rabbetting ledge will provide additional support to help stabilize the wide board -- the rabbetting ledge is also useful for, well, rabbetting on your jointer. However, this double-wide technique has a drawback with woods prone to tearout since the second pass will have to go against the wood's grain -- this is where a jointer sled for your thickness planer can bail you out. Please be advised that while I am familiar with this technique I have as of yet not needed to actually attempt such on my 8" Jet Jointer.
My advice regarding jointers -- unless you work *exclusively* with 6" or narrower boards, it is well worth the extra money for an 8" jointer (new or used)... 6" jointers are considerably cheaper simply because there is a perpetual glut of them from previous owners dumping them to upgrade to wider models! Few woodworkers ever regret having splurged for an 8" jointer, though many regret having not done so.
Along with the jointer, however, you will find that a thickness planer is also indispensible for both thicknessing lumber as well as makeing both sides parallel to each other -- something a jointer can not do on its own. I purchased my 8" Jet Jointer and my 13" DeWalt DW735 Planer at the same time because the two tools really are incomplete without one another if your goal is to process your own rough lumber to save money at the lumber yard. If you want to pay for S4S then its a bit different, but then you already know S4S lumber (surfaced 4 sides) is quite expensive versus roughsawn.
For the bandsaw question, my feelings are along these lines: If you intend to use your bandsaw primarlily for scrolling largish items (larger than you'd scroll on a scrollsaw) then a 14" bandsw is your bandsaw of choice. They have crowned wheels that accept narrow blades (1/8" or less) very well, but at the expense of optimal traction with larger blades used in resawing. On the other hand, if you intend to use your bandsaw for gentle curves with 1/4" or larger blades as well as for resawing (3/4" to 1" blades) then an 18" (or thereabouts) bandsaw with its lesser crowned wheels and more powerful motor is a better choice. In and ideal world one would own both, but this, I feel, is a good basis for choosing one over the other. Since I am interested primarily in resawing and cutting curves second I opted for an 18" (really 18-3/4 on mine) Rikon Bandsaw (model 10-345). It is a good quality European style bandsaw with 12" resaw capacity and a 2.5HP motor capable of handling up to 1-1/4" blades (you won't need more than 1" though) at a respectable price. Rikon also has a very nice European style 14" bandsaw (their Deluxe 14" model). European style bandsaws are built of heavy-gauge tubular steel and much lighter (but extremely strong) than their more traditional heavy-weight back-breaking cast-iron bandsaws. As for European vs Cast-iron -- it is really more of a personal choice IMHO.
As for 120V vs. 220V -- it really comes down to the size of the equipment and the horsepower of the motor. At 120V you are pretty much limited to a maximum of 15A which, in practical terms, leaves you with about 1.5 to 1.7 *actual* horsepower as an absolute maximum. A 20A 220V receptacle, on the other hand, can handle up to a true 3HP motor. If you are at all serious about woodworking then you will want atleast 3-4 220V 20-30A receptacles (if you use atleast #10 copper you will be able to easily convert 20A 220V receptacles to 30A receptacles without rewiring) installed in your workshop (roughly as follows: one for 220V power tools, one for Dust Collector, one for a larger air compressor or other power tool, one for air conditioning and/or electric heat). Each of these receptacles should be a dedicated circuit with its own circuit breaker since these are equipment combinations that may draw power simultaneously. If you only use one power tool at a time then all your 220V power tools can draw power from the same circuit -- just remember you can only run one such tool at a time (seldom an issue in a one-man shop). You will quickly find that installing a dedicated 60-100A subpanel in your workshop is the best solution -- once a subpanel is run to your workshop you can then either surface mount wiring for new receptacles (preferably in PVC or metallic conduit) or, if you have open studs, you can fish the Romex through them to the desired new receptacle.
If you have any other questions, by all means feel free to ask!
Edit: When I say
"at all serious about woodworking" I really should have qualified that with respect to power tools. We have some really talented hand tool enthusiasts here. There are also many who manage to get by with the limiations of 120V only, but you are limited to much smaller machines and their inherent limitations.
