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TENdriver

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TENdriver
Okay, somewhere along the way I got it into my head that I wanted one of these knives:

https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/showthread.php?t=51246&highlight=Sellers+knife


I ended with it’s American (Stanley 10-049) cousin.

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So, now I have a few years experience with these knives and they’re great!

I ‘ve ended up with several of them. They are excellent as marking knives for hand tool work and they’ re really useful as utility knives. I’ve even carried one as a pocket knife. Great kitchen drawer knife etc.

The blades are decent steel that take and hold a good edge. I tend to touch up the blade edge and keep them surgically sharp. Because the blade is disposable, I don’t worry about rough use that might nick an edge. So far, I haven’t needed to replace a blade. I’ve been able to resharpen, and put them right back to work.

The first couple of knives were purchased as Amazon Smile add ons in order to reach a shipping minimum. Since then, I’ve paid a little more, but these knives are handy to have around and they are worth it.
 

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TENdriver

New User
TENdriver
I have one but haven't used it. How do you sharpen it?

Mike,

I ‘m either not disciplined or good enough to consistently use the same sharpening method on my edged tools.

Sometimes I use my dad’s (the man was an absolute sharpening genius) oil stones, my various ceramic stones, water stones, occasionally various diamond stones, and even metal workers crocus cloth or various polishing compounds on leather, card stock or hardwood blocks.

The short answer is, I think Stanley uses some type of high carbon steel in these blades and my dad’s ultra hard translucent oil stones work or very fine ceramic followed by crocus or polishing compound. Think like sharpening a straight razor. Which reminds me, I have also sharpened these knives with my grandad’s and great-grandpa’s razor stones!

My father never could teach me to effectively sharpen any tool, but somehow :confused: I manage to put out an okay edge after much trial and error.
 

Jim M.

Woody
Corporate Member
I learned to chip carve with one of those, it was chrome plated. I didn't know they stiil made them, I might have to order one just for nostalgia sake.
 

TENdriver

New User
TENdriver
Buy new blades for a few dollars. It's a Stanley #10-049 knife and the replacement blades are #10-041.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-11-0...pID=315-d8Pe3TL&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Jeff, I think PATLAW has the English Stanley knife. If so, I ‘m pretty sure it uses a different blade that doesn’t interchange with the Stanley 10-049.

There used to be a technology or maybe it was a medical supply company located in Texas that stocked the replacement blades for the English Stanley knives.



EDIT: Just looked closer at the back of the American Stanley package. Original U.S. 10-049 knife blade is 11-040 which you can get a replacement for. There’s also a slightly different 11-041 replacement blade.


:eusa_danc
 
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Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Mike, when you come to sharpen your plane bring that knife. I’ll teach you to sharpen it and why it’s better to sharpen that just get a new blade.
 

Ed Fasano

Ed
Senior User
I ordered the English version on Amazon a couple of years ago. I seem to recall paying about $22 for the knife, a package of replacement blades (which remain unopened) and shipping. It's the perfect marking knife for me. Highly recommended. I still keep a small, reasonably sharp Victorinox in my pocket for cutting tape, twine and rough marking, but the English Stanley is my go-to marking knife for accurate layouts. I'm not certain that I am sharpening it correctly, but I seem to be able to keep a nice edge on it with a bench stone or a Fine/Extra Fine DMT Diafold.
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
On all the pocket knives I have owned in my 3 core and ten, the sheepsfoot blade is the one that got the most use (as well as most abuse)..

A sheepsfoot blade is sharpened like a plane iron or chisel: Flat on the back and bevel only on one side. I think every one I have seen has been made for right-handed use, so lefties may need to regrind the blade to put the bevel on the opposite side.

Go
 
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