Pattern routing

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Vanilla Gorilla

New User
Marco Principio
I need some tips on routing to a pattern. Or more specifically, creating the pattern to rout to. I am wanting to make an arched apron for the coffee table I am working on, and I am having a difficult time of making the pattern with symmetrical curves. I used a grid and plutted out points and drew my arch, and then cut it out with a jigsaw (I don't own a bandsaw), but your finished piece os only as good as your pattern, and either my lines weren't great or I didn't follow them to a T, but it wasn't ideal. is there a better way? Or do I just need practice :BangHead:
 

Monty

New User
Monty
Hard to tell if your problem is drawing an accurate arc, or shaping the pattern. To draw the arc I would bend a thin piece of wood (or a thin aluminum yardstick) into the shape you need to make the arc, and trace it out on your template. Anchor the ends with weights or clamps, and push/pull on the middle to make the arc you need.

To shape the template, cut it out close to the line with a jigsaw if you don't have a band saw. I personally would use an edge sander or disk sander, moving the edge of the template across in a broad sweeping motion to make a nice arc, slowly sanding down to the line. If you don't have a sander that would do (or, as I guess in your case you need a concave curve), then use a pattern-maker's rasp to fair the curve. Sand the edge smooth with some sandpaper glued to a thin strip of wood.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
If you can draw your arch out with a smooth line, great. If that is giving you problems try a bending strip. That's a thin strip of wood attached to 2 bricks or other heavy object that can be flexed and held in place to allow you to trace your line. Once you have a good line drawn, jig saw it out to within a 16th or 32th of that line and then fine tune it to the line with your choice of sanding or hand-tools. I use a drum on my DP and/or a rasp, spokeshave and sanding block. 1/2" MDF works great for making patterns and it shapes and sands very well. You could also use hardboard but often it is a problem getting the pattern bit bearing to ride on the 1/4" thickness. You biggest difficulty is getting the edge of the pattern square to the face. Jig saws often have problems with that. HTH, Dave:)
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
Dang it beat out by the sleepless one, I got to learn to type faster:BangHead:

Dave:)
 

Vanilla Gorilla

New User
Marco Principio
well, I have actually attached one of my jigsaws to a plate that fits in the recess in my router table, so I can cut fairly precisely with it, so I am guessing that it's my drawing. The idea of bending a stick to the arc is a great idea, as I suck at freehand drawing anything, even if it's only between points that are an inch apart. I also like the dp drum sanding option...I need to get on building one of those.
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Great tips above. Make sure that your bending strip is consistent (equal thickness if hardwood, no voids if plywoood) if not, your arc will end up skewed DAMHIKT. Another tip I came across for doing long arcs in American Woodworker uses 2 nails (one at the origin and one at the top of the arc) and a tapered board with a notch in it to hold a pencil. As you slide the board along the nails, the taper in the board creates a perfect arc. You do one half at a time. I was able to get a perfect arc on the front of my countertops that is 80" long. I'll see if I can lay my hands on the article and post the specifics for dimensions.
 

HardRock

New User
Gil
yet another arc, or eliptical curve, drawing setup is to use a piece of string between to anchor points with a bit of slack in the string. The greater the slack the greater the arc. hold your pencil against the string to "bow it out" and draw the arc by sliding the pencil along the string
 

DavidF

New User
David
Depending on the Radius, but I have actually gone to the trouble of making 14ft long router tramel; works for me! I have used Steve D's method too. If you have to hand cut the profile, make it out of the thinest material you can - 1/8th ply or similar, This overcomes the edge squareness problem; then use this to guide a flush trim bit to route the curve on 1/2" MDF then use that to cut your stock.
 

JohnsonMBrandon

New User
Brandon Johnson
I agree with all of the above. One thing you could do to check your work points when bending your thin strip of wood is attach a string to the two outermost points of the board you desire to cut. Leave some slack in the string and that will give you a perfect arc. As stated only use this for your work points....just to make a few marks to double check your bent strip of wood or piece of steel.
 

Vanilla Gorilla

New User
Marco Principio
well, I went with the bending strip idea. I cut a thin strip of hardboard, made my arc, tacked it onto the blank of the f orm with some hot glue, drew my arc, cut it out, faired out the curve and made the cuts. this is the frame of the table, not glued up..still have sanding and some trimming of the tenons to do, but it's coming along

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=3026&c=396

let me know what you think. The table top is glued up but I still need to cut a cove on the bottom side of the edge, and then there's the assembly and finishing, but I am pleased with the progress so far
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Looks great Marco!!:eusa_clap :eusa_danc

Like the tapered legs and the proportions are excellent! (How did you taper the legs? TS or BS?

Wayne

PS: I made an red oak coffee table for one of my daughters. There is at least one picture in my gallery. I stained it Minwax Golden Pecan and then gave it four coats of satin poly. It turned out pretty good. - I didn't use a grain filler, but with all of the poly, it still turned out pretty good I think.
 

Vanilla Gorilla

New User
Marco Principio
lol. My shop is too small, so I have to do my assembly inside the house. It isn't ideal, but we do what we hafta do. As far as the router table goes, as soon as I figured out what a router table was supposed to do, I stopped using that one and built a better one. There are pics of it in my gallery. To Canuk, I tapered the legs on the TS. I cut a form out of plywood to hold the legs and ran them through like that.

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/gallery/showimage.php?i=3027&c=396

that's a pic with the top on it. I took this before I glued it all up so you could see it without all the clamps on it. Sanding is all done, now I just need to take the plunge and finish it.
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
Nice looking table Marco! Darn near everything I make has arced rails or something. Years of fighting Murphy have taught me that bowing the thin strip of wood is "not good", inconsistenet results, maybe due to the grain in the wood affecting the elasticity of the wood along it's length. Drawing arcs with strings is "not good", because string will stretch. I have some ~1" wide strips of vinyl siding that I use a lot to mark curves. The vinyl is static and won't stretch plus it's light and easy to deal. Just punch a nail holes where you need them. I also make a "gadget" for a steel tape measure that clamps the tape measure body to a pivot on a board; the scribe end attaches to the tape and, and you vary the arc radius with the length of the tape. Works pretty good but you need help to use it. As for cutting the arcs, cut shy of the line with your bandsaw, jig saw, coping saw, gnawing, or whatever. The REAL secret to nice smooth curves is to use a circular plane. Put the piece in your bench vise, curve up, and using your circular plane, plane toward the center from each end of the arc. The finished arc will be mirror shiney and absolutely smooth without even the slightest bump or hump. Just my $0.02 from cutting a bazillion arced rails.
 

Vanilla Gorilla

New User
Marco Principio
I used a strip of fiber board about 1" thick and it seemed to bow pretty consistently. I like that tip about planing the curve. I had thought about that, but I have no experience with those types of planes. Any particular brand you recommend that is relatively inexpensive but will do a decent job?
 

Ozzie-x

New User
Randy
You can probably budget $100 for a good circular plane, also known as circumference plane, sun plane, etc. The best circular planes are the old Stanley #113, #20 and #20 1/2. The Union Tool equivalents of these are also good planes. The #20 and #20 1/2 are basically the same plane with a different finish (japanned vs. nickel plated), and generally seems to be the "preferred" circular plane, although I have both a #20 and a #113 in the shop and generally use the #113 most of the time, mainly because I've had it for years and it's like an old friend. I believe Record still makes a circular plane based on the Stanley #20 design. Best I remember they're about $200. The German company ECE Primus also makes new circular planes based on the Stanley #113 design and they're pretty pricey at over $300. I haven't been impressed by any of the new English Record or Stanley planes, and I don't recommend those. The best bet is to find an old Stanley circular plane.
 
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