Need Advice Partition wall opinions

[ChemE75]

A friend asked for assistance putting up a partition wall in garage to create a separate shop space. Since garage has depth, best placement is running parallel to back wall and directly under bottom of a roof truss joist which also run parallel. So one idea is to build the wall frame and set it just a bit under the joist, shim as necessary and screw wall top plate into the bottom of the joist, maybe drill through top plate slightly oversized so wind load on roof causing any bit of vibration or motion won’t affect wall.

Other idea is to build a wall with clearance to the above joist, align the studs with the back wall studs and run joists across the 12’ width. This fully isolates the partition but is extra work to put in the joists. Full height is 9’4” so there’s sufficient height. Got a feeling option 2 is best but appreciate hearing some thoughts and ideas from those more skilled at carpentry..

 

[JNCarr]

In my opinion Option 1 is better - take as much height as you can get to sling long sticks around without poking the ceiling. I would run a cleat the width of the wall, screwing it to the joists above. Then build the wall to account for the cleat (which the wall is going to fit directly under) and about another 3/16-1/4". Shim and screw the top plate to cleat.

 

[ChemE75]

In my opinion Option 1 is better - take as much height as you can get to sling long sticks around without poking the ceiling. I would run a cleat the width of the wall, screwing it to the joists above. Then build the wall to account for the cleat (which the wall is going to fit directly under) and about another 3/16-1/4". Shim and screw the top plate to cleat.

Ok, I saw some diagrams that looked like top plate was screwed to a cleat. I also saw some Simpson slotted L brackets I was thinking might be an easy way with the long slot on face of joist allowing for the possible movement.

 

[JNCarr]

Again in my opinion, you're worrying too much about movement. There should well be enough "give" in the system to accommodate environmental stresses. I have a partition in my garage, exactly as you describe - the perimeter walls are on a foundation and the dividing wall just screwed to the slab and joists. No issues in 10+ years.

 

[ChemE75]

Again in my opinion, you're worrying too much about movement. There should well be enough "give" in the system to accommodate environmental stresses. I have a partition in my garage, exactly as you describe - the perimeter walls are on a foundation and the dividing wall just screwed to the slab and joists. No issues in 10+ years.

Thanks. I tend to over think these things at times when not within my wheelhouse.

 

[Rwe2156]

IMO yes, you're overthinking it. I wouldn't give a second thought to fastening a top plate to a truss joist.

 

[ChemE75]

IMO yes, you're overthinking it. I wouldn't give a second thought to fastening a top plate to a truss joist.

Thx!

 

[Oka]

Agree just run a 2x6 flat and attach to the bottom of 2 trusses and you can set where ever you need. Then use a 1x or 2 x to close the top and run your drywall/plywood sheeting and done.

IMO yes, you're overthinking it. I wouldn't give a second thought to fastening a top plate to a truss joist.

 

[ChemE75]

Agree just run a 2x6 flat and attach to the bottom of 2 trusses and you can set where ever you need. Then use a 1x or 2 x to close the top and run your drywall/plywood sheeting and done.

Don’t understand. Wall will be under and parallel to truss, not perpendicular, so why attach anything to 2 trusses? I can see strapping to attach ceiling, otherwise Joe makes sense with the cleat screwed onto bottom of joist.

 

[ChemE75]

In my opinion Option 1 is better - take as much height as you can get to sling long sticks around without poking the ceiling. I would run a cleat the width of the wall, screwing it to the joists above. Then build the wall to account for the cleat (which the wall is going to fit directly under) and about another 3/16-1/4". Shim and screw the top plate to cleat.

One diagram I saw looked like one 2x4 was screwed to face of joist extending 1-1/2” below bottom edge. Then a 2x4 edge was screwed to the face of that 2x4 as the cleat for the wall top plate to screw onto. This sounds like an extra 2x4 for no good reason. Again, I like your suggestion of the direct to joist cleat.

 

[JNCarr]

One diagram I saw looked like one 2x4 was screwed to face of joist extending 1-1/2” below bottom edge. Then a 2x4 edge was screwed to the face of that 2x4 as the cleat for the wall top plate to screw onto. This sounds like an extra 2x4 for no good reason. Again, I like your suggestion of the direct to joist cleat.

Just sent you a PM with drawing.

 

[ChemE75]

Just sent you a PM with drawing.

Perfect! It’s how I envisioned it. That diagram I found online was overkill.

 

[ChemE75]

Just sent you a PM with drawing.

Worked out well. Just a few shims to cut off. Short one osb panel to finish garage side. Insulation will be next.