I am getting ready to paint some of my new shop and wanted to know what is the best way to do the floor without having it be slick. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Painted Shop Floor To Slick!!!
- Thread starter steviegwood
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When I had my sign shop 30 years ago I put sand in the floor enamel to make it "grippy".
Nothing worse than spilling paint on the floor and slipping in it.
I also splattered different colors all over the floor so you couldn't tell if a little got dripped on it.
Nothing worse than spilling paint on the floor and slipping in it.
I also splattered different colors all over the floor so you couldn't tell if a little got dripped on it.
I was also going to say sand. Never done it myself but, I've seen it done several times.
Presuming it's concrete you may want to consider some kind of floor covering to help your feet, legs and back. Even if you don't cover the whole floor those anti-fatigue mats can be a lifesaver. I have several around the shop in front of the machines I use most and a 3' x 8' one in front of my main worktable.
I would also like to cover the floor of my garage/shop and I am considering going with Vinyl Composition Tile (VCT) instead of epoxy paint. Most of the manufacturers won't guarantee it for garage use and vehicle traffic, but I have been doing some research and there are lots of guys out there that have had it in their garage for years. Plenty of big grocery stores have it and it seems to hold up just fine with pallet jacks running over it every night. It will be a while before I tackle this project, but I think it is worth considering since the tiles run < $1 per square foot. I'd be interested to hear if anybody on the board has used VCT in an application like a shop or garage.
These guys are in Mt Airy.
Seems like an interesting approach
Sam's lists the full size mat (7.5' x 25') at $244
http://www.unitedplastics.com/consumer-tarpet.php
Seems like an interesting approach
Sam's lists the full size mat (7.5' x 25') at $244
http://www.unitedplastics.com/consumer-tarpet.php
BTW, the floor is plywood and being 24' x 80' I will have to stay with the idea of painting. I am running out of funds very quickly on this rebuild but hope to be able to finish soon. I would offer to sell some body parts so I could finish this project the right way but I have damaged all of my parts beyond repair. Thanks Everyone.
Try Seal-Krete's Clear Grip. I just put some on a plywood floor painted with porch paint from HD. I have two hay wagons I use to take people out in the orchard and worked real well. I had it shipped to the store and asked the guy to mix it in. I also bought one of those power drill paint stirring attachments to keep it from settling to the bottom and it stayed pretty even in the mix. Hope that helps, Jim
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Seal-Krete-3-2-oz-Clear-Grip-Anti-Skid-Additive-402002/203002764
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Seal-Krete-3-2-oz-Clear-Grip-Anti-Skid-Additive-402002/203002764
BTW, the floor is plywood and being 24' x 80' I will have to stay with the idea of painting.
Steven,
Glad you are rebuilding and hope it's going well. Here is my limited experience with adding the Lowes per-packaged textured sand to paint.
I think I paid about $4.00 for a pint sized box which seems high for sand but...One box would be plenty for a gallon of paint and, when added to water based paint, it seemed to expand a bit. The sand stayed suspended very well and when applied, it did the job of texturing as advertised. I was pleased with the results. This was applied to a wall so I'm not sure if it is appropriate for floor applications where wear and abrasion would be expected. Make sure to read the label to check this out if you choose to go this rout.
Steven,
Glad you are rebuilding and hope it's going well. Here is my limited experience with adding the Lowes per-packaged textured sand to paint.
I think I paid about $4.00 for a pint sized box which seems high for sand but...One box would be plenty for a gallon of paint and, when added to water based paint, it seemed to expand a bit. The sand stayed suspended very well and when applied, it did the job of texturing as advertised. I was pleased with the results. This was applied to a wall so I'm not sure if it is appropriate for floor applications where wear and abrasion would be expected. Make sure to read the label to check this out if you choose to go this rout.
I just painted the plywood floor in my shop.
I used this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_65737-4-009.0065737.007___?productId=3083633&pl=1&Ntt=Valspar+floor+paint
It took a little over 2 gals for 2 coats on my 16 x 24 shop, (about 360sf) and it definitely is not slick. The directions call for thinning the first coat on bare surfaces with 1 pint per gal of water. I did not do it on the first half, but did on the second. If you do this you will get better coverage area, but not doing it on plywood gives a little smoother final finish. For overall coverage rates on bare pine plywood, I estimate I got about 250 sf per gal for the first coat, and about 350sf per gal for the second using brush and roller. Probably do better with a good airless.
I just did mine a couple weeks ago, so don't know how durable it will be. It comes in several colors, and I think they may have had 5 gal buckets of it. I used the light gray. You need to let it dry overnight between coats.
Go
I used this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_65737-4-009.0065737.007___?productId=3083633&pl=1&Ntt=Valspar+floor+paint
It took a little over 2 gals for 2 coats on my 16 x 24 shop, (about 360sf) and it definitely is not slick. The directions call for thinning the first coat on bare surfaces with 1 pint per gal of water. I did not do it on the first half, but did on the second. If you do this you will get better coverage area, but not doing it on plywood gives a little smoother final finish. For overall coverage rates on bare pine plywood, I estimate I got about 250 sf per gal for the first coat, and about 350sf per gal for the second using brush and roller. Probably do better with a good airless.
I just did mine a couple weeks ago, so don't know how durable it will be. It comes in several colors, and I think they may have had 5 gal buckets of it. I used the light gray. You need to let it dry overnight between coats.
Go
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Be careful not to use "beach" sand. The salts will cause problems with the concrete and finish. Use what is called "wash sand" around here.
I sell paint for a living. What you paint with is determined by why you are painting it. You could go anywhere from a coat of shellac to one of the $300/gallon epoxies I sell but it depends on the why as to the what.
For plywood, if all you want to do is make it easy to sweep and brighten up the lighting effect, hard to beat simple latex house paint. Make a few calls to the Borgs or local paint stores and ask if they have any "mistints" in a water based material. exterior is a better choice because it's more abrasion resistant - relatively speaking. Thin the first coat 15% with tap water and apply the second coat straight from the can. Unless you plan on having a wet floor, it won't be "slick" but it will be smooth enough for easy sweeping.
For plywood, if all you want to do is make it easy to sweep and brighten up the lighting effect, hard to beat simple latex house paint. Make a few calls to the Borgs or local paint stores and ask if they have any "mistints" in a water based material. exterior is a better choice because it's more abrasion resistant - relatively speaking. Thin the first coat 15% with tap water and apply the second coat straight from the can. Unless you plan on having a wet floor, it won't be "slick" but it will be smooth enough for easy sweeping.
I put down the Barricade OSB/foam tiles over my concrete floor. I finished it with Poly so it would still look like wood and be easy to cleanup.
The cheap solution is to mix course sawdust into the paint. I have done this for boat decking and it results in plenty of grip. The plus side is that when you redo it, you save the hassle of burning up sandpaper removing the original sand-laden coat. A bit more pricey would be walnut shell abrasive, but it works a bit better.
Sorry, but I didn't read all the replies! Just ignore this comment if it's already been addressed. I was told not to use oil base paint on my shed floor (plywood) because it would be a slippery floor. Use a water base floor paint. That's what I used, and it was not slippery!
-Don
I want to brighten the shop and make it easier to clean for the most part. I have already slipped on sawdust on the osb which has a slick side to it already and well busted my bum. The littlest bit of sawdust on it as is makes it as slick as ice.
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