Paint Stripping on Wood Furniture

[mbeach]

My wife and I just bought a dresser and a twin sleigh bed from a consignment furniture store. Does anyone know anyone that will strip the paint off of these? Or have recomendation on how to do it myself.

 

[Mike Davis]

I go against the tide and use a card scraper. I don't like the chemicals and I don't like the way the wood looks after chemical strippers have been used.

Scraping takes longer but I do a little each day and vacuum up as I go so there is very little mess and the wood is ready to varnish when I get the old paint off.

 

[Marlin]

You know what kind of wood? And you plan on repainting or trying to stian/dye it?

If more paint then just hit it with soem sandpaper and a thin primer coat and have at it.

If stain/dye then it will depend on the wood type as some don;t like the paint remover chem's but soem pay have paint in the pores and only way is a chem.

 

[Jeff]

Check the yellow page listings under "Furniture" in Winston Salem and Statesville. The commercial folks usually have large, stirred vats of stripper in which an entire piece can be submerged. IMHO the $ cost is well worth it because the end result is much cleaner and thorough. It's also much safer for the human body and the environment.

Home stripping can work with smaller pieces, but you have to work fast because the volatile components in the strippers evaporate quickly leaving you with a gummy mess. For example, see methylene chloride:

http://www.osha.gov/pls/oshaweb/owadisp.show_document?p_table=STANDARDS&p_id=10095

BTW, all strippers are not equal. Some are used if the piece is to be repainted and others are used if you want a "natural" look to the wood and you intend to do some other finishing schedule. You could try a couple of strippers from the BORGs in some non-conspicuous areas in order to get an idea of what's under all of that paint and then decide how to proceed. :icon_scra

 

[Howard Acheson]

If your plans are to re-stain the piece, do not use sandpaper or a scraper to remove the old finish. Stains require that all the prior finish be removed or the new stain will not penetrate or be absorbed into the wood. Sanding and scraping will not get all the old finish out of the pores of the wood and can lead to uneven coloring due to uneven absorption.

Use a chemical paint stripper containing methylene chloride. This type of stripper will do the fastest and most complete job of removing the finish. Follow the directions on the label.

Also, be careful using a commercial paint stripping service. If your item contains veneer, the veneer adhesive can be damaged and the veneer will lose adhesion. Hot chemicals can also soften and weaken the adhesive used to build the furniture. Have a long and pointed discussion with the service before taking this route.

 

[Jeff]

If your plans are to re-stain the piece, do not use sandpaper or a scraper to remove the old finish. Stains require that all the prior finish be removed or the new stain will not penetrate or be absorbed into the wood. Sanding and scraping will not get all the old finish out of the pores of the wood and can lead to uneven coloring due to uneven absorption.

Use a chemical paint stripper containing methylene chloride. This type of stripper will do the fastest and most complete job of removing the finish. Follow the directions on the label.

Also, be care using a commercial paint stripping service. If your item contains veneer, the veneer adhesive can be damaged and the veneer will lose adhesion. Hot chemicals can also soften and weaken the adhesive used to build the furniture. Have a long and pointed discussion with the service before taking this route.

Howard,

Excellent points. I never thought about a veneer finish and the problems which you pointed out. Thanks from all of us at NCWW. :icon_cheers

 

[Gofor]

I used methylene chloride in my work for years (delivered in 55 gal drums). I have been mildly burned many times, know of one person blinded, and many more severely burned using it. This did not happen due to ignoring safety procedures, either. Murphy's law seems to be attached to this stuff. Pay very close attention to the safety warnings, and have a close (within hands reach) water source, preferably a water hose with nozzle and water turned on to it for immediate use if you get it in your eyes. Wear eye protection and do not use it in a confined space (the fumes can burn your throat and lungs). Long sleeved shirt and chemical resistant gloves are also a must. Cuff the gloves so the stuff does not run down your arm if you hold your hands up. I also recommend a doo-rag or other head protection. Have the protective equipment on when you open the container and keep it on until you are done. It is nasty stuff.

Yes, it does work well. Evaporative coatings like lacquer or shellac will pretty much dissolve on contact. Oxidized coatings like varnish, poly, etc will bubble and sluff off 1 layer at a time, so do not rinse until you have re-glopped the first layer goo back over the second and third etc. Rinse when done or at days end. Do not let it totally dry/evaporate on the surface if possible, but if it does, reapply a fresh coat to re-dissolve it. If you rinse, let the item totally dry before reapplying or the moisture will neutralize it before it can work.

Before you start, you may want to plan on what you're are going to do with the toxic mess you have when you are done. Make sure it is fully neutralized with water, whatever your disposal plans.

For furniture, I go the Mike Davis route using a card scraper as tool of choice. I usually follow up with sand paper.

JMTCW

Go

 

[Mike Davis]

I worked in the screen printing industry for 20 years and often had ink and solvents on my hands for hours at a time. Over the years I developed a severe allergy to most chemicals and solvents. I can walk down the detergent isle at the super market and be coughing and out of breath at the other end.

Now I avoid chemicals at all cost. If the only way to strip furniture is to use chemicals I would rather burn it and make a new piece.

I have had nothing but great results with my card scrapers. Stain and varnish or sometimes just varnish. If you take the time to do it right you can do a better job of cleaning off the paint with a scraper than with chemicals.

 

[Jeff]

I worked in the screen printing industry for 20 years and often had ink and solvents on my hands for hours at a time. Over the years I developed a severe allergy to most chemicals and solvents. I can walk down the detergent isle at the super market and be coughing and out of breath at the other end.

Now I avoid chemicals at all cost. If the only way to strip furniture is to use chemicals I would rather burn it and make a new piece.

I have had nothing but great results with my card scrapers. Stain and varnish or sometimes just varnish. If you take the time to do it right you can do a better job of cleaning off the paint with a scraper than with chemicals.

Mike,

The humble card scraper shines again. It's such a simple gadget, but very utilitarian at the least. :icon_cheers I imagine that a box scraper also would do the trick for the rough work and it'd be more forgiving on the fingers and hands?

Chemical sensitization is not uncommon and it usually develops over time with repeated exposures. However, once you're sensitized there's no going back. :thumbs_do