We have a 10" Delta UNISAW the blade guard and splitter do not travel with the blade height. I cut alot of small pieces and they always get tangled up inside the guard or anti-kickback mechanism and a push stick doesnt do any good when you cant get within 3" of the blade so most of the time I have it removed and use a push shoe and guide when cutting. According to a section in the OSHA guidelines where is says that "the guard must be in place at all times unless it itself is causing the hazard" I feel I am covered in my table saw operations. Does anyone have any experience with OSHA inspectors, we have a unit inspection in a few weeks and I would like to know if we're operating within the guidelines.
OSHA compliment table saw
- Thread starter Adam
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Hi Adam,
I assume from your post count that you are a new member. Please go over to the "Who We Are" forum and introduce yourself, we're glad you're here!
Second, I assume from your post that you are a commercial operation, and as such are subject to OSHA regulation. I can tell you from personal experience that most of the OSHA inspectors I've run across are pretty strict about machine guarding, so while you may (depending on the inspector) be able to convince him or her that the "unless itself is causing hazard" clause applies, you are better safe than sorry.
Rather than using the stock splitter/guard, I would suggest an Excalibur type or Penn State Ind over-arm guard, which also gives you the added advantage of over-blade dust collection and reduces the interference with push sticks and the like.
Also, you should be aware that OSHA seems to be on a bit of a dust hazard kick lately, so you may want to be sure that fugitive dust build-up is policed up.
HTH, and welcome to NCWW!
C.
I assume from your post count that you are a new member. Please go over to the "Who We Are" forum and introduce yourself, we're glad you're here!
Second, I assume from your post that you are a commercial operation, and as such are subject to OSHA regulation. I can tell you from personal experience that most of the OSHA inspectors I've run across are pretty strict about machine guarding, so while you may (depending on the inspector) be able to convince him or her that the "unless itself is causing hazard" clause applies, you are better safe than sorry.
Rather than using the stock splitter/guard, I would suggest an Excalibur type or Penn State Ind over-arm guard, which also gives you the added advantage of over-blade dust collection and reduces the interference with push sticks and the like.
Also, you should be aware that OSHA seems to be on a bit of a dust hazard kick lately, so you may want to be sure that fugitive dust build-up is policed up.
HTH, and welcome to NCWW!
C.
Thank you,
yes I am a new member just a couple days. I work at a minimum custody prison here in NC. I run an activity program which has turned into a hobby shop for chronically ill and disabled inmates, thus the OSHA inspection. I have the excalibur and i cant stand it, same problems small cuts 1/4" or so get tangled up and the push stick only gets so far. I install the guard for inspections and larger cuts which isnt very often, and we have the Vac hooked up to catch most of the dust
yes I am a new member just a couple days. I work at a minimum custody prison here in NC. I run an activity program which has turned into a hobby shop for chronically ill and disabled inmates, thus the OSHA inspection. I have the excalibur and i cant stand it, same problems small cuts 1/4" or so get tangled up and the push stick only gets so far. I install the guard for inspections and larger cuts which isnt very often, and we have the Vac hooked up to catch most of the dust
Adam, welcome to NCWW and please introduce yourself in the "Who We Are" forum.
I'm not visualizing the problem that you're having with the blade guard/splitter in place and the push stick, etc. A picture or diagram would help get my head out of the sand.
1. So all of you fall under the OSHA rules in that wood shop? (Randolph Correctional Facility?)
2. How often do you or inmate hobbyists need to make these dicey cuts with the guard/splitter removed?
3. How have your "wood shop" peers within the correctional system handled OSHA inspections at their facility?
I'm not visualizing the problem that you're having with the blade guard/splitter in place and the push stick, etc. A picture or diagram would help get my head out of the sand.
1. So all of you fall under the OSHA rules in that wood shop? (Randolph Correctional Facility?)
2. How often do you or inmate hobbyists need to make these dicey cuts with the guard/splitter removed?
3. How have your "wood shop" peers within the correctional system handled OSHA inspections at their facility?
I dont know about the TS guard but i can say when i worked in a gravel pit when i was way younger. We would work for days putting guards on all the machinery (rock chusher / wash plant / conveyers /etc..) before the OSHA dudes showed up. We always passed inspection but when they left so did all the guards. OHSA inspections were kind of worthless and a big waste of time in my mind but who am i to know...
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Adam,
It is prudent to find a guard that works for your application and to use it as far as it is practical. Your inmates most likely vary in skill and so need as much protection as you can provide. That said, you need to know that unless there is an employer/employee relationship between the prison and the inmates, the OSHA regulations do not apply to their use of the equipment. Perhaps you do pay them for any work generated by the shop and that would make them employees. If you are the only employee that uses this shop then you could argue, in the case that you only supervise and never use the equipment, that OSHA regs do not then apply.
Do you know if your inspection is by the compliance folks or from their consultative services group. If the latter, then they will only offer advice and will not cite you.
Again, make sure that you are providing as much protection as you can, whether OSHA regs apply or not. I am not advocating skirting rules when they legitimately apply, but only that you should defend against citations if OSHA has no jurisdiction.
In addition to guarding, dust collection, and PPE they will check the electrics (switches, wiring, connections), stability of the equipment, lighting, and maybe training. They may get into hazard communication for any chemical products used and also will probably ask about your log of injuries/illnesses. I have interacted with NC OSHA for 30 years and would anticipate that the inspection will be reasonably conducted and educational for you. It's when they inspect following a serious accident that they get out the big book and whack you.
Good luck
It is prudent to find a guard that works for your application and to use it as far as it is practical. Your inmates most likely vary in skill and so need as much protection as you can provide. That said, you need to know that unless there is an employer/employee relationship between the prison and the inmates, the OSHA regulations do not apply to their use of the equipment. Perhaps you do pay them for any work generated by the shop and that would make them employees. If you are the only employee that uses this shop then you could argue, in the case that you only supervise and never use the equipment, that OSHA regs do not then apply.
Do you know if your inspection is by the compliance folks or from their consultative services group. If the latter, then they will only offer advice and will not cite you.
Again, make sure that you are providing as much protection as you can, whether OSHA regs apply or not. I am not advocating skirting rules when they legitimately apply, but only that you should defend against citations if OSHA has no jurisdiction.
In addition to guarding, dust collection, and PPE they will check the electrics (switches, wiring, connections), stability of the equipment, lighting, and maybe training. They may get into hazard communication for any chemical products used and also will probably ask about your log of injuries/illnesses. I have interacted with NC OSHA for 30 years and would anticipate that the inspection will be reasonably conducted and educational for you. It's when they inspect following a serious accident that they get out the big book and whack you.
Good luck
Adam, I'm not an expert on OSHA but I was responsible for safety and Quality Assurance on a few billion dollars worth of work.
If the operation is inherently risky, (cutting small parts) can you simply change to another altogether different processes that doesn't require the "risky" cuts?
Or, can you accept a higher materials cost (e.g. Increase waste material) by cutting the small parts from a larger board and not using every single inch of stock? I know it's counter intuitive, but even on a tight budget, one injury will probably far exceed the increase in material cost.
If the operation is inherently risky, (cutting small parts) can you simply change to another altogether different processes that doesn't require the "risky" cuts?
Or, can you accept a higher materials cost (e.g. Increase waste material) by cutting the small parts from a larger board and not using every single inch of stock? I know it's counter intuitive, but even on a tight budget, one injury will probably far exceed the increase in material cost.
Jeff. I have nothing to add concerning OSHA. However, when it comes to cutting really small pieces I think a bandsaw would work best. Is there a budget for buying a small bandsaw? Or checking with other NC Departments to see if they have one they are willing to transfer to your program?
BS for the small stuff also. The TS is a man eater.
I agree with Dan and Raymond. I don't have a band saw but small pieces can be cut safely on the TS too. The OP said 1/4" and these are 3/16".
http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/cutting-thin-strips-at-the-table-saw/
Missing in action: Blade guard/splitter.
If these parts are too small to safely deal with on the TS, hand tools might be a better option. I have converted most of this kind of woodworking to hand tools and a few simple jigs. A number of us (including me) would be happy to teach a few classes if it would help and if it is allowed.
One last note - Even if the splitter/guard is removed, it is a really good idea to have a riving knife like you see in the Wood Whisperer video. If your version of the Unisaw does not have provision for a riving knife, you could go with one of these. The riving knife goes a looong way toward preventing kick-back.
From past experience with OSHA inspections.....if the saw came with a guard it needs to be on the saw. And if it did not something needs to be installed for kickback. Personally I did not have good luck with the MJ Splitter. I opted for the Shark Guard instead after I spent 8 days in hospital from kickback
Outstanding advice yall, Thank you.
I've been looking for a riving knife like that for a while, but it sits so far back from the blade im concerned about having similar problems that we're having now. I need to replace the throat plate but our saw's parts have been discontinued.
the inmates arent allowed to use the power tools since we dont have any official training available, so I do all the large stock cuts on the saws and the inmates use hand tools to do the detail work.
I have a band saw (grizzly polar bear) but I've yet to figure out the blade size and tooth set for ripping small pieces without it walking all over. I've been using 3/8" x 10 from sawblade.com and 1/2" x 4 from bosch/lowes.
I've been looking for a riving knife like that for a while, but it sits so far back from the blade im concerned about having similar problems that we're having now. I need to replace the throat plate but our saw's parts have been discontinued.
the inmates arent allowed to use the power tools since we dont have any official training available, so I do all the large stock cuts on the saws and the inmates use hand tools to do the detail work.
I have a band saw (grizzly polar bear) but I've yet to figure out the blade size and tooth set for ripping small pieces without it walking all over. I've been using 3/8" x 10 from sawblade.com and 1/2" x 4 from bosch/lowes.
If I had students cutting small pieces(repeated) on the TS or BS, I would build a hold down jig and keep alllllll the fingers away from that blade. It takes a little time but in the end it is worth every minute. Safety is contagious. Your students will see it and they will use your jigs.
Just tell them playing the piano is more fun with 10 fingers.
If you go to http://www.grizzly.com and put the model number in the search box on their homepage you can download a copy of the owner's manual. That will tell you how to tune your bandsaw and which blade size(circumference) and how to select the proper width and tooth count. A lot of the members here get their blades from John at http://www.woodcraftbands.com . He offers the best pricing on regular carbon steel "Hobby" type blades and is also from NC near Boone. Call Mon-Thursday and talk to him about the particulars of what you need to cut and go with his recommendations as to the blade you need. At ~$6/blade you can't go too wrong.
Take the dimensions of the current "stock" throat plate. What is the model number of your Delta Unisaw?
For example, here's some info for a Unisaw model # 34-450. It measures 13 3/8" x 3 3/4".
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/standard-ins-10in-cont-p-144308.html
Here's a selection of throat plate blanks for a Delta Unisaw.
http://www.ptreeusa.com/table_saw_zero_clearance.htm
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