Old 'Arn' Machines

F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
Hi all,

Awhile back I bought an old 'arn' Darra-James 95 table saw and a old DeWalt 7790 radial arm saw. The RAS is cleaned up and about to go back together, then on to the table saw. My question is whether there is anyone in the Winston-Salem area that can help me with these machines if I get in a bind. (I live in Pilot Mountain and these machines are heavy, so it would be great if someone could come out.) Also I will need at least the tilt rod in the Darra-James machined. It's very worn. Is there anyone who does this type of machine work?

Floyd
 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
Stuart Kent said:
are you familiar with these two sites: VintageMachinery.org | Welcome and Old Woodworking Machines - Index page they can tell you everything you'll need to know about those machines and can help you find parts for them too.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've been working with them and they've been very helpful. I've also been talking to the guys at Delphi about the RAS. They've been good, too. Problem is I'm not really a machine guy. As I put these back together, I'd feel more comfortable if I could call on someone to help as need be, especially with the fine tuning so I could learn something. And, as I said, I need some machine work done to fix/replace the lift screw on the Darra-James. (I'm sorry, I said tilt screw above. I meant lift screw. They're pretty much the same.)
 
DSWalker

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
Hey Floyd, I bought the same table saw about a year and a half back. Mine was in really good condition already. There is a decent video on machining that lift screw. Took me forever to find it. It may be linked in my old post. My lift screw is a bit 'short' If I lower it just past 'level' with the table it looses the grip and comes out of the connection. I would think any machine shop could turn another one for you, especially if you bring the existing one to them.

Sorry, I'm not much help on your questions, but I sure have enjoyed mine. It is a HEAVY son of a gun and will rip through some heavy and hard stock. I can attest to that. I'll see if I can find and post the link to my old post in case there is anything there that is helpful to you.

Here is the link to my old post. There is a link to a website where parts may be available.

 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
DSWalker said:
Hey Floyd, I bought the same table saw about a year and a half back. Mine was in really good condition already. There is a decent video on machining that lift screw. Took me forever to find it. It may be linked in my old post. My lift screw is a bit 'short' If I lower it just past 'level' with the table it looses the grip and comes out of the connection. I would think any machine shop could turn another one for you, especially if you bring the existing one to them.

Sorry, I'm not much help on your questions, but I sure have enjoyed mine. It is a HEAVY son of a gun and will rip through some heavy and hard stock. I can attest to that. I'll see if I can find and post the link to my old post in case there is anything there that is helpful to you.

Here is the link to my old post. There is a link to a website where parts may be available.

Click to expand...

Thanks. I'm looking forward to it. My uncle, a machinist, thinks I don't have to do a full-scale rebuild of the lift rod like that video on Vintage Machines. He says I can just cut it off and weld and acme crew to it. The other fittings look fine. Other than that, the big question(s) now are the motor mount (I have two of them) and the fence. I have at least two of the geared fences. Not sure whether to go with an original or buy a new one, like an Incra. All I plan to do with it right now is rip. I bought a radial arm saw to handle cross-cuts.

Anyway, how big a motor did you put on it? I have a 1-phase/2 hp/220v motor to go with it, but people have told me I can go bigger.

Floyd
 
DSWalker

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
I left the original motor on it. It is just 1 HP, but has never even winced at some really heavy stock. It probably weighs 75lbs by itself. (Photos in the old link, the spec plate is from the motor)
 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
DSWalker said:
I left the original motor on it. It is just 1 HP, but has never even winced at some really heavy stock. It probably weighs 75lbs by itself. (Photos in the old link, the spec plate is from the motor)
Click to expand...

I got a pretty lightweight Doerr motor. It's already been cleaned up and the bearings replaced. However, I'm told I can put up to a 5 hp motor on it. We'll see. I'll try the Doerr and see how it goes. Having a lightweight motor is apparently a plus on this saw. At least that is what I was told.
 
B

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Back in the late 70s early 80s I used one of those to cut speaker box parts that I was making for a sound company. It was a workhorse for sure and I can attest to it being heavy. The 3/4" arbor was little more than a petty annoyance as bushings were easy to cut from a $1.50 3/4 x 1 x 1-1/2" bronze bushing.

188145
 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
bob vaughan said:
Back in the late 70s early 80s I used one of those to cut speaker box parts that I was making for a sound company. It was a workhorse for sure and I can attest to it being heavy. The 3/4" arbor was little more than a petty annoyance as bushings were easy to cut from a $1.50 3/4 x 1 x 1-1/2" bronze bushing.

View attachment 188145
Click to expand...

Do you know anyone who could help me work in it? For certain I need a knew lift rod. It's worn to the point of being almost stripped.

Floyd
 
B

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
bob vaughan said:
While I used to do this for a living, I know of no one now that does this.
I remember that I took the top off and turned it upside down to get to the components easiest. That was close to 40 years ago. I wouldn't have the body strength to do that these days.
The manual says a few bolts are removed and the top and components will lift out.
Darra-James Corp. / ToolKraft Corp. - Publication Reprints - Model 95 Tilting Arbor Table Saw | VintageMachinery.org
Click to expand...

It's sitting upside down right now. Seemed to be the best way to get started on it.
 
B

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Excellent strategy. With it like that, you might just give it a try or at least remove the components that need to be re-made.
 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
bob vaughan said:
Excellent strategy. With it like that, you might just give it a try or at least remove the components that need to be re-made.
Click to expand...

Well, there's a video on OWWM where Keith Rucker machines the entire piece. My uncle, also a machinist, says it would be simpler to cut off the threaded portion and weld in a new acme screw to the proper size. He says the fasteners on the end are hardened steel and in good shape.

What do you think?
 
B

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Welding rod stock to rod stock requires a special skill to get things as straight as they must be. If the skill is there, then it will work. Such a thing is beyond my welding skill level. I've tried before with not so good results.
 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
bob vaughan said:
Welding rod stock to rod stock requires a special skill to get things as straight as they must be. If the skill is there, then it will work. Such a thing is beyond my welding skill level. I've tried before with not so good results.
Click to expand...

Yeah, it sounds tricky.
 
S

sssfox

New User
Steve
It's much easier to weld something like that if you clamp all the parts in the correct locations before you weld.
 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
sssfox said:
It's much easier to weld something like that if you clamp all the parts in the correct locations before you weld.
Click to expand...

My uncle seemed to think it would be easy, but it didn't sound easy. Of course, what Rucker does in his video doesn't look easy either.
 
R

Roy G

Roy
Senior User
i have often wondered if you could approach your local community college that had a machining curriculum and see if they would do your job as a student project. Never had the need, but if may be possible. Or you could enroll in the curriculum and do it yourself.

Roy G
 
F

Floyd Hall

New User
Floyd
Roy G said:
i have often wondered if you could approach your local community college that had a machining curriculum and see if they would do your job as a student project. Never had the need, but if may be possible. Or you could enroll in the curriculum and do it yourself.

Roy G
Click to expand...

That's a good idea, but I don't think I have the time. Anyway, I think I've found a machinist here in Mount Airy. We'll see how that goes.

Floyd
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top