NYW router table size

[DaveO]

I am thinking of making a router table similar to the NYW style. Of course I don't have a plan nor want one but if someone has made one I would appreciate the basic outside dimensions. Also I am fairly tall (6'3"), so I tend to make things taller for my shop, anyone have any thoughts on how well the standard height works for taller folks or what a good range should be (like a lathe center at you elbow height, for example). Thanks in advance for any tips you can offer. Dave

 

[golfdad]

DaveO you might want to stop by and ck out mine. Its similar but bigger:icon_thum

 

[hpetty]

DaveO,

I have completed the cabinet and top for mine. I stuck very close to Norm's plans. Still have to do the fence and DC plumbing.

The cabinet is 32"W x 24"D x 36"H. The plans call for the top to be 34 1/2"W x 24 1/2"D, plus edge trim. If I were building this again I would make the top another 2" or so each way. There's barely enough over-hang with these dimensions for clamping.

Haven't cranked mine up yet, but I'm very pleased with the feel of it so far. If I had it to do over again I would also add a toe kick on three sides, instead of just the front (of course a larger top and more overhang might remedy that problem).

 

[DaveO]

Dirk, I might just take you up on that offer. Especially when I get to the fence assembly.

Hugh, those are the dimenions that I thought it would be. I think that I'm gonna make it 2" taller I think that would be more comfortable for my height. I have found that adding 2" to most things makes it just right.

Dave

 

[D L Ames]

Dave, there is an excellent article starting at page 102 in the FWW Tools & Shop issue #167 that describes rules of thumb for selecting the right work height for various tasks performed in the shop. The article basically divides the body into three "zones" that certain woodworking tasks fall into. These zones are the Precision Zone (detail work, carving, etc) which ranges from your mid-chest to your shoulders. The Finesse Zone (requires force and strict control) which ranges from your elbows to your mid-chest area. And the Power Zone (hand planning, pushing work through machines, etc) which spans an area from about your knuckles (arms down at your sides) to just below your elbows. I hope this helps.

D L

 

[golfdad]

Mine isabout 25 x 42 with about 2" overhang all around.Should be a pic of it ion the gallery

 

[Travis Porter]

I have built the cabinet (not completely finished with drawers and door) for mine and will post some pictures this weekend. I am 6' 5" so I know what you are talking about height wise. I made mine approximately 39" tall including casters. I decided I wanted it higher because I am tall, but my other reason was that it would allow me to do longer stuff that will work past my shop cabinets. My width was a bit narrower than I wanted because I made it fit with my Jessem router top and the existing holes it had on it.

Top recommendation is if you are going to put it on wheels, don't buy the ones at Lowes or HD as they don't roll well at all. Grizzly has the cheapest double locking casters I have found and the roll and lock very well.

 

[mshel]

Dave,

I remember reading somewhere on the web about the correct height and it said that the top should be about the height ( from the bottom of your elbow with arm bent up ) "L" to the floor. That is how I measured mine and it is at a comfortable height. Don't remember where I saw it though.

MIke

 

[Travis Porter]

Here is a picture of my incomplete router table set up. SWMBO got me the top, fence, and lift for Christmas. The way we do Christmas I have to give her a list of stuff since I am so nit picky and had put down bench dog stuff for the top and all and some guy working at Woodcraft ;-) talked her into buying the Jess'em stuff instead. I think the Jess'em is better anyway and I was just trying to keep the cost down, but I will say the whole jess'em set up is impressive.

I haven't finalized the dust connection piping for it, but I would recommend getting the fence hooked up to pull dust with either a shop vac or dust collector. Makes it a whole lot better routing MDF or anything else.

 

[toolferone]

Here is my table. Can't tell you anything about the construction as it only cost me $25 plus casters and the insert.

 

[rickc]

Here is my table. Can't tell you anything about the construction as it only cost me $25 plus casters and the insert.

OK - I'll bite. How did you manage that?

 

[hpetty]

Here is my table. Can't tell you anything about the construction as it only cost me $25 plus casters and the insert.

I'll also ask Rick's question: How did you do that!!!??? I don't even want to total up how much I have spent on mine. Of course I didn't have the luxury of a scrap bin, so I had to buy ALL of the materials new. But it sure will be nice when (if) I finally get it finished.:rolf: