Need Advice Nyle L53 & L200 Kiln Drying

[Brent Morris]

i have been drying wood for only 5 years, many different types of local hard and soft woods of Michigan (Southeast). Nothing special. But are there any guys/gals out there using the L53 or L200 to run pine wood in bulk drying? If so, what thickness boards are you cutting, and what size stickers are you using between them? And are you heating the boards up to remove the excess sap inside? Any insight would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[scsmith42]

Hi Brent. I’ve been running an L 200 for 24 years and I’ve dried a lot of pine during that amount of time.

To set the pitch, you need to get the temperatures above 160° and 170 or 180 is better.

In either an L 53 or an L200, reduce the load size by 75% for 1 inch pine compared to 1 inch oak. For example, L 200 compressor is sized for up to 4000 board feet of 4/4 oak. The maximum amount of 1 inch pine to put in Green would be around 1000 to 1250 board feet so that the compressor can remove a higher volume of moisture per bd foot than with the oak. 1 inch pine can be dried at a rate of up to 15% moisture content loss per day. If you put too much 1 inch pine in the kiln, it will most likely mould and mildew severely due to the high humidity inside the kiln and 90-100f temperatures.

Many Sawyers Will air dry stacks of 1 inch pine very aggressively before putting it into a kiln because it’s all but impossible to damage it with too much air flow.

2 inch thick pine will run a similar schedule to 1 inch black walnut or maple, which is around 7% moisture content reduction per day. But you can also aggressively air dry it in Advance.

I tend to use three-quarter inch thick stickers for anything going into the kiln with load widths of 40 to 48 inches. If I’m air drying material outside that will never go into a kiln I typically use a 1 inch thick sticker or if I’m hair drying very wide slabs such as 6 foot wide I will also use a 1 inch thick sticker in order to reduce the friction of airflow in between the slabs.

Best of success to you

Scott

 

[blackhawk]

Brent - Please be aware of the temperature ratings of any accessory components that you use in the kiln if you are getting up to 160F or higher. These would include power cords, outlets, fans, lights, etc.

 

[Canuck]

Hi Brent. I’ve been running an L 200 for 24 years and I’ve dried a lot of pine during that amount of time.

To set the pitch, you need to get the temperatures above 160° and 170 or 180 is better.

In either an L 53 or an L200, reduce the load size by 75% for 1 inch pine compared to 1 inch oak. For example, L 200 compressor is sized for up to 4000 board feet of 4/4 oak. The maximum amount of 1 inch pine to put in Green would be around 1000 to 1250 board feet so that the compressor can remove a higher volume of moisture per bd foot than with the oak. 1 inch pine can be dried at a rate of up to 15% moisture content loss per day. If you put too much 1 inch pine in the kiln, it will most likely mould and mildew severely due to the high humidity inside the kiln and 90-100f temperatures.

Many Sawyers Will air dry stacks of 1 inch pine very aggressively before putting it into a kiln because it’s all but impossible to damage it with too much air flow.

2 inch thick pine will run a similar schedule to 1 inch black walnut or maple, which is around 7% moisture content reduction per day. But you can also aggressively air dry it in Advance.

I tend to use three-quarter inch thick stickers for anything going into the kiln with load widths of 40 to 48 inches. If I’m air drying material outside that will never go into a kiln I typically use a 1 inch thick sticker or if I’m hair drying very wide slabs such as 6 foot wide I will also use a 1 inch thick sticker in order to reduce the friction of airflow in between the slabs.

Best of success to you

Scott

Thanks Scott! This stuff is a real education for me! Enjoyed every word!