Northumbrian Bagpipe update 2

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johnpipe108

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John Meshkoff
I have been fortunate; McMaster-Carr carries the odd size of brass tubing at 1-3/8 inches (this size is used on the overflow drains on old claw-foot tubs; perhaps that's why it is still available), and only $15.20 (plus S&H) for a one-foot length. I stuffed and re-drilled the stock holes at a correct angle, about 2 to 3 degrees and added the ferrule this morning (the brass tube came this am).

Here are all the parts:

NSP_All-parts-dscf1438.jpg


from back to front: Drones in common-stock. Chanter stock and chanter. Blow-pipe stocks and blow-pipe. Bellows inlet bushing and outlet tube, bellows cheeks.

The bellows-cheeks are drilled, but a 1/8 inch square groove must now be cut along the stitching holes to provide room for the stitching to lie below the surface. The blow-pipe and bellows-inlet both have flats cut on their valve-ends; a banjo-shaped leather flap (the bellows flapper valve) will have its tail tied on the flat with waxed shoemaker's thread, the tie also providing the seal in the hole.

BTW, I made the cheeks from old 3/8 oak drawer sides (not turning, but I thought you'd like to see the source material):

NSP-Bellows-cheeks-dscf1434.jpg


It's going to take a good long while now to make a bag, leather the bellows, and make the reeds; the overall project will probably take at least a month or so now to finish those last tasks.

I'll try to post some MP3's of pipe-music when I actually get them working.

Regards, Johnpipe
 

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Very nice looking work there, John!!:eusa_danc:eusa_danc

Seems to me that that calls for some serious precision when turning those parts.

Looking forward to seeing the completed instrument.

Fascinating stuff!:icon_thum

Thanks for sharing.

Wayne
 

johnpipe108

New User
John Meshkoff
Excellent! It has been a year or so since you have posted one of these hasn't it?

I didn't get to do any serious woodworking for the second half of 2009, and much of my woodwork since 2007 has been some shelves in the old Petaluma shop and my cannon and wagon models; my six-months stay in Novato was temporary, so I did not get to set up shop there. I just got my bandsaw and drill-press back a few weeks ago, and this particular project has been on hold for more than a year, IIRC, so I finally got to make some serious sawdust! :icon_thum

I've been fortunate to have long ago been given the batch of cocobolo from which I turned this; it's a pretty, and pretty pricy wood these days. I've also been fortuante not to show any allergic reaction to it, and I hope I never do. These "Rosewoods" are notorious sensitizers.

They are also very oily, and therefore water-resistant, and I made a floatation test; it sinks, a very good sign. It also dulls the turning tools very quickly, and some of it has very high silica that can actually be seen in the veins; I think those particular pieces might be Brazilian Rosewood. There seems to be some of both in the collection, though it can be next to impossible for the non-expert to tell before the wood has been cut into; two pieces, oxidized on the outside, may have identical chocolate-brown exterior color, but each may have different tones when actually cut into.

As they are left with natural finish, they will oxidize to a darker color over time. On all this rosewood, I generally finish polish on the lathe with the wood's own turning-dust, after using emery paper. These oily woods will clog the papers pretty quick, too.

Regards, John
 

mikeacg

New User
Mike
I can't wait to hear it John! I don't have any experience with Northumbrian pipes and bellows cheeks. I have a set of kitchen pipes that I play now (much quieter than a full set with only 2 drones - my neighbors probably are grateful that I have sold the big pipes!)
Thanks for sharing!
 

johnpipe108

New User
John Meshkoff
Getting even closer to the finish line. I've made a mounting plate for the bellows-outlet tube, thus avoiding another "gotcha" as the tube when installed will overhang the stitching line; the old book shows the tube screwed and glued directly to the bellow cheek, but this will prevent the stitching needles from accessing three of the stitching holes.

Northumbrian_B-Outlet-mntd-dscf1452.jpg


The outlet can now be attached and detached independently; it will be gasketed with silicone sealer (a leather washer would have been used in the old days) and attached with two #4 brass wood screws.

Northumbrian_B-Cheeks-fin-dscf1458.jpg


I finished the cheeks with three coats of Min-Wax Helmsman Spar Urethane (as I had it on hand!).

I'm trying to make a bag from the hyde of the Nauga (cheap!), as leather is a bit pricey these days. I'm going to check out the possibility of real leather for the bellows, though.

Regards, John
 

johnpipe108

New User
John Meshkoff
Pipes in their bag:

NSP_tied-in_1-dscf1466.jpg


Finally got the second bag together, and after much toil and trouble got everything tied in. Going to be a few more weeks for bellows sewing, and few more after that for making the chanter reed and playing drone reeds.

Naugahyde is a PITA to glue; I used silicone adhesive for the first, but it failed (must be clamped better than wood for a good join!), and Elmer's contact cement for this one, with a welt-strip folded over and glued and stitched on a Singer Touch-N-Show.

When all is said an done, I'll post some music, and I'll look around and see if there's something North Carolina specific that I could play!

Regards, John
 
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