New tablesaw

[medic]

Finally got my new tablesaw and have a question about keeping the top from rusting . Here on the coast humidity is high and was wondering what would be the best way to keep the top looking good. any ideas to help keep the rust down ie a wax or say WD40

 

[Leviblue]

Finally got my new tablesaw and have a question about keeping the top from rusting . Here on the coast humidity is high and was wondering what would be the best way to keep the top looking good. any ideas to help keep the rust down ie a wax or say WD40

I wouldn't use WD40 as it can transfer to you wood surface and ruin the applied finish. Use something like Boshield or a Sandaro surface protectant. Both will not transfer to your wood when dry and also reduces friction.

 

[drw]

I like to use Johnson's Paste wax...been using it for years.

 

[Ed D]

For the past 40 years or so, I have used Johnsons Paste Wax. Apply it, put a little muscle to work it in a bit. Let it dry to a haze, and wipe iut off using a clean, dry rag. I do this every3-4 months or so. I also keep an old Harbor Freight moving blanket thrown over the saw when not in use. I think it helps against the humidity.
Ed

 

[rcarmac]

I saw some good reviews on WD40 Dry Lube. It’s only been on for about 3 weeks now. It does appear to have put a protective film over the surface. Very easy to apply, just spray.

 

[MarkE]

I have been using paste wax, regularly applied, on all cast iron table tops for many years. It is cheap and easy and it works well.

 

[zdorsch]

A tip I read years ago and used on my last saw was to use penetrol on the table top followed by Johnson’s paste wax. I never had rust issues with that saw and only applied wax as needed.

 

[Dean]

I have used paste wax also and it worked well. I bought some T-9 last year and like it too. Paste wax is a lot cheaper though.

 

[Melinapex]

I have used paste wax also and it worked well. I bought some T-9 last year and like it too. Paste wax is a lot cheaper though.

Same for me - combo of T-9 and paste wax. I am always dripping sweat on my tools so it's a constant battle.

 

[Gofor]

One thing NOT to do, especially if the shop isn't climate controlled.. Do not cover it with a plastic sheet or waterproof tarp. They will trap condensation under them when the temps start swinging in the spring and fall, and your top will be a rusty mess (I learned by experience). Whatever you cover it with needs to breath enough not to trap the moisture underneath. I was using an old cotton blanket, but just switched to a harbor freight moving blanket . Haven't had it long enough to be sure it will work through the fall, but so far is promising.

Second thing Not to do: If working with treated lumber in your shop, don't let any pieces, sawdust remain on the top overnight. Same goes for unfinished high tannic acid woods like black walnut and oak. Their imprint stain will remain.

Penetrol will leave a thin film, similar to a coat of clear lacquer, and does a good job, but you will have to wax it to make it slick for sliding your work easily. It will wear off in the high use areas. It works better than just wax for stopping sweat marks from droplets or hand, arm prints on hot humid days. I haven't used it in a while (because my 14+yr old saw has so many "life" marks and discolorations that I just use paste wax, and clean up the sweat spots with WD40 and an green abrasive mat), but IIRC, the penetrol took quite a while to dry and harden (24 hrs or so??). May have been due to the season when I applied it.

If I ever get a new one, I would probably go with Boeshield or T-9.

Congrats on the new saw!

 

[Mrfixit71]

I use J&J paste wax on all my cast iron tool surfaces.

 

[Rwe2156]

Daily use is the best rust preventive

 

[JohnW]

 

[cpw]

I like to use Johnson's Paste wax...been using it for years.

Ditto.

 

[dazart]

T-9 and paste wax for me.

 

[bobsmodels]

I must be really old school, when I purchased my Unisaw and 6" Powermatic jointer back in the mid 70's from a commercial outfit they delivered it, set it up, and showed me how to adjust things. The old days when that type of equipment was not usually sold other than commercial outfits. Then they handed me a container of Talcum powder and an eraser ( for the younger crowd it was used to clean chalk boards). They told me to rub it into the surface and wipe off excess once a week for about 6 months, then once every two or three months. Neither tool has ever had rust and they were not always in dry basements. Also makes wood slide nicely. Still using the same eraser.

Bob