New table saw

[Dnorris1369]

Hey guys got a new table saw couple weeks ago and finally fired it up today. Any tips for test cutting for square and how extreme do I need to get with rip fence and miter gauge. It's my first saw so any advice appreciated.


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[Jeremy Scuteri]

Spend the time now to get things set up as close to perfect as you can. You will avoid a lot of frustration down the road. Here is a video on tablesaw setup.

http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/tablesaw-setup-tuneup-pt-1/

 

[gfernandez]

Which table saw did you get?

 

[Dnorris1369]

Grizzly go715p hybrid.


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[Dnorris1369]

For example is there an equivalent to the 5 cut test for the fence?


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[Jeremy Scuteri]

Step 1: Miter Slot parallel to Blade
Step 2: Fence parallel to miter slot (some prefer to have the back of the fence to be toed away from the blade by 1/64" to help avoid kickback)
Step 3: Set the stops to ensure the blade is accurate at 90* and 45*
Step 4: Setup the miter gauge to have no slop in the miter slot and be square to the miter slot. Also ensure the miter gauge face is square to the table.

Did you check out the video? It is part 1 of 2 and is very informative.

 

[Dnorris1369]

Yes it helps a lot


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[FlyingRon]

Also make sure that the blade is perpendicular to the table when set to the normal (90 degree) position.

 

[Skymaster]

Also make sure that the blade is perpendicular to the table when set to the normal (90 degree) position.

This is one of the most important and sometimes overlooked reason for problems with bad cuts

 

[rick7938]

This is one of the most important and sometimes overlooked reason for problems with bad cuts

This, and don't rely on a stop. Use a square every time IMHO.

 

[Bob Carreiro]

Re: New Table Saw... and toss the square!

"This, and don't rely on a stop. Use a square every time IMHO." from Rick.

Really... use a "square" every time? Who here, continues to use a square for squaring TS blades?

For years, I've used a Wixie digital angle gauge for setting TS blades and have never looked back (Wixie is a brand. There are others). I keep it stuck (it's magnatized) to the TS base next to the height adjustment wheel, and right next to it is a magnetized feather board and a magnetized push stick. They couldn't be more convenient to store, locate, and use! Why rely on "going by eye," when digital accuracy (to the nearest thousanth) is availbale and at no-brainer use?

Along with what's been said on trueing your saw, Dustin - an important thing to do, do yourself another favor. Pick up one of these digital gauges priced at $39.95, or $29.95 on sale. For ease of use, and repeatably accurate blade angles, it cannot be beat! (Don't think any of you long timers will ever look back should you make the change either!)

[NOTE: After reveiw before submission, I realized that Rick may not have been supporting the use of a "square" so much as he was physcially checking the blade angle verses not relying on the angle pointer. If this be true, you made a very good point, Rick.]

 

[Rick M]

Re: New Table Saw... and toss the square!

I use a square most of the time and if I need to be really accurate I use a dial indicator and jig but honestly I get so close with an engineer's square that it's good enough for anything that isn't a miter. The trick for me was to remove the throat plate and set a piece of white melamine shelving behind the blade to reflect light so if there are any gaps they are very obvious. My understanding is that according to FW, an engineer's square is more accurate than a Wixey. I didn't read the article, just heard about it.

 

[Howard Acheson]

Here is how you set up and align your new saw.

Here is the low tech, low cost way to align a tablesaw that I learned maybe forty years ago and use to teach to my students.

Make 3/4 x 3/4 x 12" hardwood stick. Drill a hole somewhat centered in one end and insert a brass #8 x 1" round head fine thread machine screw about half way. UNPLUG THE SAW. Raise the blade completely up. Clamp this board in your miter gauge (if you determine that there is some slop in your slot to miter gauge, use a playing card to take up the slop) so the screw head just about touches the blade at the front. Now rotate the blade by hand and determine which tooth is the closest. Adjust the screw in or out until it just touches this tooth. Mark this tooth. Rotate the blade so the tooth is now at the back of the table and move the miter gauge/stick assembly to the back and see if it touches the marked tooth to the same extent. If it doesn't, adjust the trunnion (if a contractor saw) or the tabletop (if a cabinet saw) until it does.

For a contractor saw, first use a small c-clamp on the rear trunnion and cradle to keep the assembly from moving. Then loosen the two rear trunnion bolts and one front trunnion bolt. Slightly loosen the other front trunnion bolt and use a stick to tap the trunnion until the blade and screw lightly touch. The blade does not move directly around the center so you will need to repeatedly go back to the front of the blade, readjust the screw, and then again measure the back. Be sure to check after tightening the trunnion as the trunnion frequently moves when being tightened.

For cabinet saws, loosen the bolts that hold the tabletop and tap one corner until things come into alignment.

The same adjustment gauge can be used to set the fence parallel to the miter slot. Slide the miter gauge to the front of the table and move the fence over to the screw head and insert a playing card between the screw head and the fence just so you can move the card as it touches both the fence and the screw head. Now move the miter gauge to the back of the table and see if you have the same feel when you insert the card. I like my fence absolutely parallel--if you want to have a slight opening to the fence, you can easily estimate the opening by adding a thickness of paper to the card.

I always show my students with a dial gauge that their adjustments are within .001 - .002.

You can also use the same gauge to measure blade runout by using a $5.00 feeler gauge.

Finally, after you are satisfied with the above adjustments, check the position of the splitter to make sure it is exactly in line with the blade.

Bottom line, there is no need to spend more than the $0.05 for the brass screw.