The saw is great mark. I am really happy with it as well as happy for you! Your shop is looking better and better!
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The miter saw cabinets are done! I finally got around to making and installing the lowers doors. The frames were made from the last few pieces leftover from our old serving cart. The panels are the same 1/4" ply that was used for the cabinet sides and backs, leftovers from the storage bins we put in the knee walls in the room above the shop. And of course some porcelain pulls to (almost) match the pulls on the drawers.
The electrician is coming sometime next week to move the floor outlets to more convenient locations. We are having some electrical work done in the house, so I figured, while he was here he could move the outlets around for me. I am not a crawl space kind of a guy. :nah:
The electrician is coming sometime next week to move the floor outlets to more convenient locations. We are having some electrical work done in the house, so I figured, while he was here he could move the outlets around for me. I am not a crawl space kind of a guy. :nah:
After working with the new saw for a while, I decided to turn it 90 degrees ccw to take full advantage of the shop space. The problem with that plan was the floor outlets. They had to be moved. We had the electricians over to install some light fixtures in the house, so I had them move the outlets for me while they were here. I also had them add one additional 120/20 amp circuit for the drill press and shop vac. You can never have too many outlets(?)
I also removed the wheels/casters from the router table and installed six 3/8 - 16 bolts in threaded inserts in the bottom of the cabinet. This allowed the router table height to be adjusted to the height of the table saw (minus a 1/16 or so) for a little extra outfeed support. I used this configuration over the weekend and it really worked out great.
With this configuration I can rip a full eight foot sheet of plywood. My workbench is on the outfeed side of the table saw. I may have to lower it about 3/4" to bring it level with the saw and router table to provide a little extra outfeed support if needed.
The bandsaw and planer are still mobile and stored on the infeed side of the saw leaving lots of floor space between the doors and the TS for bringing in sheet goods or whatever.
And, on to the pics.
You can see the TS outlet here, very convenient for unplugging the saw. The other box is a four outlet, 120/20 amp the will be used for the router table and ...
Under the left side of the workbench you can see another four outlet 120/20 amp box.
The router table in it's little nook.
This is the additional circuit, four outlets, 120/20 amp. The other box is the 240/20 amp outlet for the bandsaw which used to be in the center of the floor.
I also removed the wheels/casters from the router table and installed six 3/8 - 16 bolts in threaded inserts in the bottom of the cabinet. This allowed the router table height to be adjusted to the height of the table saw (minus a 1/16 or so) for a little extra outfeed support. I used this configuration over the weekend and it really worked out great.
With this configuration I can rip a full eight foot sheet of plywood. My workbench is on the outfeed side of the table saw. I may have to lower it about 3/4" to bring it level with the saw and router table to provide a little extra outfeed support if needed.
The bandsaw and planer are still mobile and stored on the infeed side of the saw leaving lots of floor space between the doors and the TS for bringing in sheet goods or whatever.
And, on to the pics.
You can see the TS outlet here, very convenient for unplugging the saw. The other box is a four outlet, 120/20 amp the will be used for the router table and ...
Under the left side of the workbench you can see another four outlet 120/20 amp box.
The router table in it's little nook.
This is the additional circuit, four outlets, 120/20 amp. The other box is the 240/20 amp outlet for the bandsaw which used to be in the center of the floor.
Mark, thanks for continuing to post the pics of this project. I have thoroughly enjoyed watching it all come together. Hard to believe it's been over a year since you first started this thread. :icon_thum
Bill
Bill
Thank you for all your comments and suggestions, Bill.
This Saturday (8/13) will be the first anniversary of the 'official lighting up' of the shop. It sure seems like it's been much longer.
Mark,
Your shop is looking better & better all the time!
What will be your First project that you will the new saw for?
Your shop is looking better & better all the time!
What will be your First project that you will the new saw for?
Already started on that project, Joe.
Working on three more of these bookcases for the opposite wall in LOML's library.
Not much of a shop update, but what the heck.
I have been having some email conversations with Ed Vitanovec @ SMC and with Lee Styron, the Shark Guard inventor/manufacturer. The end result of those conversations is a new Shark Guard to fit the Grizzly G0623X.
Got mine in the mail today. It fits like a glove. It is going to be so nice to be able to see the saw blade during a cut again. I had Lee install a 4" DC port. :gar-Bi
I hooked up the DC using some old 4" 'flex' hose to test the effectiveness of the dust collection. It really sucks. Had to order some more flexible 4" flex because the the old stuff I had laying around is so stiff it was pushing the guard out of alignment.
Anyway, here it is.
I have been having some email conversations with Ed Vitanovec @ SMC and with Lee Styron, the Shark Guard inventor/manufacturer. The end result of those conversations is a new Shark Guard to fit the Grizzly G0623X.
Got mine in the mail today. It fits like a glove. It is going to be so nice to be able to see the saw blade during a cut again. I had Lee install a 4" DC port. :gar-Bi
I hooked up the DC using some old 4" 'flex' hose to test the effectiveness of the dust collection. It really sucks. Had to order some more flexible 4" flex because the the old stuff I had laying around is so stiff it was pushing the guard out of alignment.
Anyway, here it is.
I like to measure from the blade to the fence... :gar-Bi
Every time I attempt to do so with a guard like that installed, I need a third hand to hold the $%& thing up so I can measure! :kamahlitu
Therefore, I just remove it! :gar-Cr
Every time I attempt to do so with a guard like that installed, I need a third hand to hold the $%& thing up so I can measure! :kamahlitu
Therefore, I just remove it! :gar-Cr
That has always been my process as well. I removed the guard from my last saw about a week after I got it.
This guard will swing up and back so I can still take that measurement without having to remove the guard. If the guard has to be removed for a non-through cut, it only takes a few seconds to remove.
I have been looking at the Wixey WR700 digital fence gauge. With that installed, measuring the fence to blade distance will no longer be required. :eusa_danc
Mark, I just glanced at the number of "views" this thread has received (over 20,000) and thought that is pretty impressive. Then I realized I probably account for about 500 of them. :gar-La;
As I've said before, I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread. I love to watch shops come together.
Bill
As I've said before, I have thoroughly enjoyed this thread. I love to watch shops come together.
Bill
Very good Mark... Do you have to hold it up with your 3rd hand?
... I guess not... What holds it up?
Sounds like it's a lot better... and useable!
I think with a good calibrated tape-rule as part of the fence, one could rely on it too... There is just something about measuring to the TOOTH I want that is hard for me stop doing...
... I guess not... What holds it up?
Sounds like it's a lot better... and useable!
I think with a good calibrated tape-rule as part of the fence, one could rely on it too... There is just something about measuring to the TOOTH I want that is hard for me stop doing...
Your 500 includes so many good ideas and tips that I wish it were many, many more.
I see that there are several new threads about shop builds. Hopefully those people building new shops can get some good advice and tips from all the posts in this thread. There is such a wealth of information here.
Very good Mark... Do you have to hold it up with your 3rd hand?
... I guess not... What holds it up?
Sounds like it's a lot better... and useable!
I think with a good calibrated tape-rule as part of the fence, one could rely on it too... There is just something about measuring to the TOOTH I want that is hard for me stop doing...
The Shark Guard will stay up by itself, no third hand needed. It will rotate beyond 90 degrees, so gravity holds it back. I'll try to get out to the shop and take a couple of pictures tomorrow.
I agree that a well set up scale on the fence rail makes a big difference in accurate set-ups. The problem is, no matter how accurate the scale is, I still have to try to read it with the same old eyes.:nah: I'm thinking a digital readout might improve my reading skills. I know glasses won't.
Here are a couple of pictures of the Shark Guard with the new, very flexible flex hose attached. This hose is very lightweight and appears to be very thin, but so far it is holding up very well. When the DC is on, the hose shrinks up, taking out all the slack without reducing the diameter. I am really liking this hose so far.
Seriously thinking about it. I'm slightly worried about the amount of space it will take up, but I think I've got enough clearance to make it work. Of course, there's the cost to consider, I'll need to do a little saving before I'm ready to take the plunge. But yeah, I'll probably swing by one of these days to drool over your setup, and you can complete my journey to the dark side. Oh wait, we use that for turning.....you can infect me with a new strain of WGD (WoodGuy Disease).
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