Check this thing out! It's a micro adjuster for a Biesmier fence. Just got mine today. Seems to work well. From the latest Rockleer catalog: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16755&filter=29387
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Do I hear a GLOAT!
Pretty cool idea .... you'll have to give us a tool review in a couple months!
By the way ... YOU SUCK!
Pretty cool idea .... you'll have to give us a tool review in a couple months!
By the way ... YOU SUCK!
Why wait for a month! The unit sticks to the front rail by magnets. There is several inches of travel which is great, however because the Biesmier fence it presses against is plastic you only get travel in the left direction. There is no magnet in the end of the screw, just a rubber pad, so there is no reverse. This is all very well. You have to remember to set the fence wide right and adjust left into the blade. I like to set my cut width with a 6" dial caliper and this will help a lot---even with a rule. I bought my Biesmier in 1981 and I am tired of bumping it into place.
So many [STRIKE]gadgets[/STRIKE] tools I just have to have... so many projects I absolutely must build... do I buy tools to shape the wood? :eusa_thin Or do I buy wood to shape with the tools? :eusa_thin
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Ray
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Ray
So as not to sound stupid, may I ask a question here. I have a Ridgid tablesaw. I am happy with it however I find I need to put my square on the back side before locking it down just to make sure it is square. I like the new tool you just got, saw it in the new Rockler catalog myself. My question concerns the fence. Can I purchase another fence that will be square each time so that I can benefit from the tool you just purchased? Any suggestions on a good one to look for? Lorraine
I think the Biesemeyer is the gold standard. Folks are finding $400.00 models at some Lowe's for $80.00.
Lorraine, In answer to your question, yes, you might be able to buy a new fence. The standard saw table is 27" deep. Early fence designs and cheap fence designs did not use the draphman's T square design and were often not adjustable so that you could make them square. A long lasting, reliable adjustment may be the most important thing. Biesmier and Vega can be found at Amazon.com under saw fences. Before buying be sure your saw has a front edge that a 2" angle aluminum can be bolted too or let the Forum know what your saw type is, and we can help verify what after market fence will work.
I had this adjuster for ~8 months. It was useful until I knocked it off while moving a bookcase past my table saw. It immediately broke and is now worthless. It is not made of impact resistant plastic. So, be careful with it. Also, as noted by someone else, it moves the fence in only one direction which limits its usefulness.
Mike, anything plastic can be made out of wood. Depending on what broke you just might be able to make a repair.
Spent a little more time with the thing today and found it very easy to back off the thread and bump the fence back against it.
Design idea :eusa_clap glue a magnet to the right side of the fence and one on the end of the screw and you could push and pull. Might be best to inlay the fence magnet so that the right side is smooth---in case you have to use the right side for a cut.
Spent a little more time with the thing today and found it very easy to back off the thread and bump the fence back against it.
Design idea :eusa_clap glue a magnet to the right side of the fence and one on the end of the screw and you could push and pull. Might be best to inlay the fence magnet so that the right side is smooth---in case you have to use the right side for a cut.
Bob, the claim is: " Make fast, accurate adjustments in less than .001" increments to your T- square style table saw fence." My question is, how do you know when the micro-adjuster has moved the fence .001 inch. Does the steel shaft have graticule marks, or what?
As pointed out earlier, the adjuster only moves the fence to the left. Are you able to put pressure on the fence (to the right) while moving the adjuster in the opposite direction?
What you really need is a dial indicator measuring against the fence like the one on my shop-made micro adjuster.
Here's a link to the rest of the pictures. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=813
The turnbuckle I used for micro-adjustment works, but not very well. In fact, I don't use it at all. However, having the dial-indicator on the fence allows me to easily position with a gentle bump.
I am looking forward to your review of how well it works.
-Don
As pointed out earlier, the adjuster only moves the fence to the left. Are you able to put pressure on the fence (to the right) while moving the adjuster in the opposite direction?
What you really need is a dial indicator measuring against the fence like the one on my shop-made micro adjuster.
Here's a link to the rest of the pictures. http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showgallery.php?cat=813
The turnbuckle I used for micro-adjustment works, but not very well. In fact, I don't use it at all. However, having the dial-indicator on the fence allows me to easily position with a gentle bump.
I am looking forward to your review of how well it works.
-Don
Some time ago I started using a 6" dial caliper to measure with. You can set it and lock it and then use the tail end to set the needed distance on an adjustable machinist type rule.
Using either the rule or the caliper tail alone, I can then measure from the proud tooth of the table saw to the fence. Accuracy is probably only .005", and it's a whole lot easier to do than trying to read a scale to a 64th. The advantage of the adjuster is to be able to easily get that last little bit with out overshoot. When bumping a Biesmier I often overshoot and have to move it back and try again.
Yes there are markings on the barrel of the rotating piece. I don't see this as a big plus because you still have to use something to measure the blade to fence opening. A person may be able to set up a cut with this device but it's far easier to set it close using the normal scale and then screw adjust the last little bit.
Using either the rule or the caliper tail alone, I can then measure from the proud tooth of the table saw to the fence. Accuracy is probably only .005", and it's a whole lot easier to do than trying to read a scale to a 64th. The advantage of the adjuster is to be able to easily get that last little bit with out overshoot. When bumping a Biesmier I often overshoot and have to move it back and try again.
Yes there are markings on the barrel of the rotating piece. I don't see this as a big plus because you still have to use something to measure the blade to fence opening. A person may be able to set up a cut with this device but it's far easier to set it close using the normal scale and then screw adjust the last little bit.
Re: Color Me Puzzled
You're not missing anything with regard to the initial cut. Do the best you can to make all matching pieces the same size. I use the dial indicator when it is necessary to re-set the fence to duplicate a previous fence setup. I reset the fence and make a test cut. If the cut is a little off, reset the fence and try again. Making small adjustments with my Model 64A Biesemeyer style fence is a hit or miss operation; the dial indicator provides a means to tap the fence into place. Make a test cut and compare it to the original; if it's smooth to the touch, that's good enough!
-Don
You're not missing anything with regard to the initial cut. Do the best you can to make all matching pieces the same size. I use the dial indicator when it is necessary to re-set the fence to duplicate a previous fence setup. I reset the fence and make a test cut. If the cut is a little off, reset the fence and try again. Making small adjustments with my Model 64A Biesemeyer style fence is a hit or miss operation; the dial indicator provides a means to tap the fence into place. Make a test cut and compare it to the original; if it's smooth to the touch, that's good enough!
-Don
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