New Project

[Arcrist]

So im planning this ring box next. Heres a pic of a rough plan www.dreadcraft.com/newproject.JPG

My main question is on the drawer. Im going to try what would seem to be named a sliding dado. Would I set the bottom of the drawer box up higher than where the track will ride? I dont want to have the box bottom split ofcourse, but would the drawer ride fine if I had the front and the back fit to ride on it? Or would I need to reinforce the grove with 2 slim pieces of wood right under the box bottom?

Thanks
Andy

The pic distorts easily so you might want to just save it to your desktop to view.

 

[NCPete]

Andy, followed that link, and got this:

Not Found

The requested URL http:// was not found on this server.

 

[Arcrist]

Try it again

 

[NCPete]

yup. that fixed it. Hope someone else can help you with your challenge, cause I gots no clue :-?

 

[DaveO]

Andy, I would do either of two things. First, I would think about placing the drawer runner on the sides of the case, and grooves in the drawer sides to accommodate the runners. Runners are thin strips of wood, set into a groove in the case. Second, I would try piston fit drawers, for something that small you don't need runners, just make a box (drawer) in a box (case). I wish I had lent you a few of my jewelry box books, there is some really good information in them. Well, maybe next time.
Dave

 

[Arcrist]

Ok so make the sides of the drawer thick enough so that the grove will ride on the runner but not deep enough to go through the box side?

 

[DaveO]

Yep, if you working with 1/2" stock make the groove in the drawer side 1/4" deep and same for the groove on the case, then inlay a 1/2" square drawer runner. But I think that your best bet for something of that size is the piston fit drawers. Runners can get a little tricky to fit just right. And cutting narrow strips of stock can be dangerous without the right tools.
Dave

 

[Arcrist]

Whats the piston method?

 

[jeff...]

I think the trick of a good sliding drawer is actually the drawer sides. I usually make the bottom drawer sides about a quarter of an inch higher than the back. Glue the female part of the slide to the bottom of the drawer and cut a mortise for the male part of the slide into the inside of the face, and to the back of the frame, leave a little slop (don't glue), so the slide wont bind up in humid weather and raise it up enough so the female part of the slide does not does not drag on the face frame. Big drawers require the use of a mullet for drawer bottom stability.

I use furniture glides under the drawer sides to keep the drawer from rocking on the face and the slides are as the point of contact for the drawer sides, so the drawer slies easy. The 1/2 to 3/4 round white plastic slides found in the hardware store seem to work great. I haven’t had a drawer bind yet, least that I know of. I'm sure there are better ways of making drawer slides, that’s why I'm here to learn from the more experienced wood workers.

For what it's worth I have a drawing (.jpg) of the way I make drawer slides, with mullet, if it's a small drawer you can leave the mullet piece off. Just remember to leave a little slop in the male/female joint and also in the mortise on the face and back frame and you should be ok when it gets humid, solid wood furniture swells and shrinks based on the weather.


Thanks

 

[DaveO]

A piston fit drawer is just a drawer that fits exactly into its opening. Think of a piston and engine bolck cylinder wall. Or a box in a box.
Here an example: http://www.markloewenstein.com/wood/wallcabinet1.html
And another:

Any help???
Dave

 

[DavidF]

I would go piston drawer on this one. When you get it right there's nothing like it for feel.

If you get the grain orientation right on the front, and use plywood for the drawer bottom, or orrientate long grain side to side, then swelling is not an issue.

 

[Big Mike]

I also vote for the piston fit for this type of drawer. A drawer this size is easily planed to achieve a perfect fit. Once you have it in there like you want a little wax and it will be good for a lifetime.

 

[jeff...]

A drawer this size is easily planed to achieve a perfect fit.

This must be where I go wrong! when I plan, it seems to take the enjoyment and relaxation out of woodworking. When my plan is wrong and make that cut, I start thinking of ways to invent a board stretcher. :BangHead:

I guess I'm more of show me a picture and give me the final dimensions and I'll make it up as a go along kinda guy. It's much more relaxing for me that way, and gives me some freedom to be creative and try new things.

I can see your point about a perfect fit too, surely to some this is just as gratifying.

Thanks

 

[NCPete]

Jeff, I think that was supposed to be 'planed' not 'planned'. I know what you mean about cuts not working when planned...

 

[Gofor]

Amen, brother!:lol:

 

[Travis Porter]

Been there, done that, got several t shirts. Even when I do plan, I get in trouble with working out joints or other stuff. I laid out 14 drawers in Excel and made them all 1 inch too big. I added 1/2 inch instead of subtracting.

Then again, how many magazine articles/plans do you see that the next month they publish corrections to mistakes they made? I have seen quite a few.

I should learn CAD at some point. It would simplify it a lot, but every time I have tried one, it has ended in frustration. My last try was 2 years ago.

 

[woodguy1975]

Another vote for Piston fit. The COD I'm making has 24 drawers that are all piston fit. It is the mark of fine craftmanship when you get it right. I used the english methon for my drawers. Basically you size the sides so they just slide without binding, make the drawer front fit the opening exactly, do your dovetail work so the tails are actually proud, glue the drawe with no clamps to distort it, and plane the sides to match up with the pins. I I sized my backs the exact width of the sides when I did the jointery but will rip off the bottom 1/8" so the drawer rides smoothly on the sides.

Good Luck,

John