New guitar

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danw

New User
dan
I know, I know. Another new guitar. Build something else, why don't cha.
Maple top. Mahogany back and neck. Ebony fretboard with maple binding.
image.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpgimage.jpg
 

danw

New User
dan
Sand to 320. grain fill if needed.
Stain with transtint in water. multiple colors in this case. burst can also be sprayed with color in lacquer, but I like to stain the wood directly.
Let sit overnight. Spray 2 coats Cardinal nitro lacquer. Let sit 2 days.
lightly sand. Spray 4 or 5 coats lacquer. 1 hour between coats. Let sit 5 days.
flat sand with 320. Spray 4 or 5 coats lacquer. let sit 2 weeks.
Wet sand to 1000 grit. buff to high gloss.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Hey Dan if its not to much to ask do you have a side profile. I would like to see the neck tilt if you don't mind.
 

gesiak

John
Corporate Member
I like this guitar very much Dan. Reminds me of the SG I had in the late 60s. I really like to color and finish.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Thanks for the WIP pics. So it is still possible to get enough clear ebony for a fret board. I've been having more trouble finding it for accent plugs etc. on my Craftsman Style furniture. Very nice guitar. The dye really made that Maple figure stand out well.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
I doubt this shows you much.
View attachment 17917
No it actually does show me alot and thanks...

Do you have a good idea of the angle you used when you glued the neck to the body? I struggle in the area and I know its highly dependant on the build and varies slightly from build to build. On my neck though bass builds I only sent the wings back a few degrees, this seems to work well for basses. But I'm curious about guitars as they are shorter scale than basses.
 

danw

New User
dan
It's not much. Maybe 4 1/2 degree. I don't cut angle on neck or body. I make a wedge that glues in between the two. That way I can experiment with angle depending on bridge choice.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
It's not much. Maybe 4 1/2 degree. I don't cut angle on neck or body. I make a wedge that glues in between the two. That way I can experiment with angle depending on bridge choice.
Wedge - oh cool idea... Thanks for the tip man :thumbs_up
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Stole that from Carl Thompson. Check out his stuff, if you haven't already.
Yeah and you right my man - neck tilt is highly dependant on the bridge used. For this one the bridge is routed into the body. This allows me to tilt the neck back just a few degrees to make it good and playable. Fretless needs to have strings real close to the finger board.

uploadfromtaptalk1449591657396.jpeg


I'm a mere padawan learner - guitar building is deep and wide... I manage to learn something new everyday.
 
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KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
Thanks for the discussion guys. I learn more when two experienced people discuss their work and compare ideas. Someday I might try this - someday.
 

CrealBilly

New User
Jeff
Dan could you please share how you make the electronics cover fit the cavity so perfectly? This is a huge struggle for me as you can see..

e3752ea804e5d4e7da2790983c589355.jpg
 

danw

New User
dan
I use 3 templates to make the cavities and covers. make a template for the body to accept the cover that is routed only to the depth of the cover. make a template for the cover itself sized to fit previous template. tape this template directly to wood and use template cutter on router to cut. finally a template slightly smaller to cut the full depth cavity that leaves an edge for the cover to sit on. Make them yourself or stemware sells them as well.
 
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