New Dining Room Table

mkepke

Mark
Senior User
Jim - I've got a Ryobi RE600 router that's still plugging away after 25 years (!) of hobby use and two sets of replacement bearings.

Anyways, don't want to distract from the table. A few shots of the base would be nice. Sounded like you used dimensional 2x12s as stock for the base - what was the reasoning behind that choice? How does it look under the india ink (I'm visualizing SYP with the strong contrast between early and latewood).

-Mark
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
I'll work on a close up of the base today and post it. I have used softwood colored with ink several times. The base of my PCS is made of softwood colored with ink and then covered with poly. It includes a cabinet under the extension wing with drawers that are finished the same way (box and drawer fronts). The ink pretty much overpowers the wood regardless of type, at least that is my judgement.

I used SYP for the curved pieces for several reasons. I did not want to glue up those portions and wide construction lumber available near me tends to be SYP. I also think it is stronger than other softwoods. It does vary in hardness across the board but I don't think that is critical for this application. Lastly, there happened to be an almost clear 16 footer, the length I needed, on the top of the stack when I went to go get wood. The straight pieces are just 2x4s. I ran all this construction lumber through my jointer before glueing pieces together. I got good tight glue lines that way - it would not happen if you did not flatten a face first. I don't like to stain hardwood, and the softwood in these dimensions is plenty strong enough. I think the only downside is the ~20% moisture content. That hasn't caused any significant issues so far.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
Here is a couple pictures. The vertical and horizontal pieces are 2x4s (refined a bit) and the curved were cut from 2x12s. The wedge is cherry.
 

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