New at scroll sawing/template advice

[njohnston924]

Hi all. I'm trying my hand at scroll sawing - bought a used 16" craftsman off CL to try it out. Right now I'm still just practicing and getting the hang of it, but I plan to make the wife a little something for valentine's day coming up.

My question is, what is the best method to attach a template to the wood? I read somewhere about using repositionable spray adhesive. does anyone else use this? i assume after I cut out the template i could peel the paper up and wipe it off with some paint thinner/mineral spirits, then sand it smooth?

I plan on using some left over red oak and plane it down to about 3/8" or 1/4"

 

[Berta]

Yes, temporary bond spray adhesive, spray the back of the pattern, apply the pattern. I also use clear packing tape over he top. It does peal off easily and mineral spirits cleans it up Do your sanding before you begin.

 

[njohnston924]

Thanks Berta! I've seen your work on some other threads and it's very impressive! Also, whats the best way to clean up edges? strips of sand paper or a small file? The oak seems to leave some fibers on the bottom side (but I'm not using reversed tooth blades or top of the line blades either)

 

[Berta]

Sandpaper remember to sand the back flat after drilling

 

[sawman101]

Welcome to the wonderful world of scroll sawing Nate! There are different methods for attaching your template to the wood. As Berta says, spray adhesive is a good way. I use 3M 77 in an aerosol can. I also spent some money for a laminator and use the repositionable photo laminator, that coats the back of each piece of the template and then peels off the backer sheet, with pieces being ready to use as I need them. Another is a photo copy paper that is adhesive backed. I haven't tried that yet. While Berta uses clear packing tape over the pattern, I apply painters tape, blue or green, over the wood, then the pattern on top of that. The painters tape peels off with no residue. Where the pattern is applied to the wood with spray adhesive, wetting it with mineral spirits will make it easy to lift off, then wipe the wood to remove ant adhesive still on it.
Don't hesitate to ask any question you have, there are many members who will and want to help.
Happy sawdusting!

 

[cskipper]

I believe that Berta and Bruce have basically listed the two major ways to attach patterns to the wood. I used to put blue painters tape on the wood, copy the pattern onto a label and peel the back off the label and put it on the wood. This is great because it is easy to remove the tape and leaves no residue on the wood.

Recently I have started using Peel & Stick Clear Laminate adhesive covering that I buy at Walmart (it's with the shelf liner paper in the kitchen stuff). I print the pattern on a label. I remove the backing from the label and adhere it to the clear laminate mentioned above. I cut out the pattern and laminate, remove the laminate backing and place it on the wood. It is super easy to remove the pattern and laminate after you are done cutting the piece. It lifts more as one piece instead of pieces of tape. There is no residue left on the wood.

As the others have mentioned, please feel free to ask questions. You will get lots of ideas because we all tend to do things a little differently. I hope you enjoy scrolling as much as I do.

 

[Berta]

I believe that Berta and Bruce have basically listed the two major ways to attach patterns to the wood. I used to put blue painters tape on the wood, copy the pattern onto a label and peel the back off the label and put it on the wood. This is great because it is easy to remove the tape and leaves no residue on the wood.

Recently I have started using Peel & Stick Clear Laminate adhesive covering that I buy at Walmart (it's with the shelf liner paper in the kitchen stuff). I print the pattern on a label. I remove the backing from the label and adhere it to the clear laminate mentioned above. I cut out the pattern and laminate, remove the laminate backing and place it on the wood. It is super easy to remove the pattern and laminate after you are done cutting the piece. It lifts more as one piece instead of pieces of tape. There is no residue left on the wood.

As the others have mentioned, please feel free to ask questions. You will get lots of ideas because we all tend to do things a little differently. I hope you enjoy scrolling as much as I do.

Cathy I have also jumps on the clear shelf paper bandwagon! Such a game changer! I made Steve Goods holder, cutter for it! I get my self adhesive printer paper from Wooden Teddy Bear, very reasonably priced!

 

[ScottM]

I use a variety of methods. I let the project dictate which. For detailed fret work I like a spray adhesive like 3M Super 77. I don't use any tape here because peeling off the tape can break delicate parts. For items like puzzles I will tape first with painters tape and then use the Super 77 to attach the pattern. For intarsia I use a laminator .

 

[sawman101]

I have 3 different colors of painters tape in the shop' blue, green, and yellow. The blue has the strongest adhesive, green not as strong, and yellow for less holding power on more fragile surfaces. I got the yellow free from a neighbor that used to work at Shur Tape, the tape maker located right here in Hickory. The yellow is nice in that I can see pattern lines through it. Sometimes I have to add tape to a piece being cut. My favorite is the green, if you can find it. I don't use the printable adhesive paper because my patterns are usually so large I have to go to the UPS Store for copies. When I cut the pieces to be applied to the wood, I often use my laminator instead.

 

[NOTW]

I like to use a glue stick to position the pattern and then use clear packing tape to make sure it stays in place. I used to use spray adhesive but got tired of peeling and sanding it off; however, a heat gun or hair dryer works well to loosen the adhesive and make it peel off easier. Also, if you have the availability print the lines of your pattern in red as opposed to black, makes it easier to see the line from the blade.

 

[njohnston924]

Thanks for the suggestions! I'll try some out on future projects. Currently i went with the blue painters tape because i already had it on hand; printed out the template and used spray adhesive to apply it to the tape. the first project is going smoothly so far - about half way done.

side question (I'm sure there will be a lot of "it's your preference" type answers, but..) do most people sit or stand when scrolling? Right now i just have it on my lathe stand, but i have to hunch over a little bit and it makes my back sore after a bit. i'm thinking about building a small stand that is lower and i can wheel a chair up to it.

 

[ScottM]

My saws sit on factory stands. I sit on a 30" bar stool .

 

[Berta]

I prefer he back of my Saw to be slightly higher than the front. I have removed the leg extentions from the front and sit in an adjustable office chair. That way I can adjust my height to please my back. I also use a foot switch.

 

[sawman101]

I have an adjustable height stool that I found online. Woodcraft is now selling that stool also. It has a tractor type seat; I bought mine in orange to go with my orange tractors. I am considering making a stand that I can use an office chair with, but I did give up the footswitch as the Hawk saws have a delay after turning on. It can become uncomfortable to hold the switch down sometimes. We all have our ways and methods that we're happy with, so there is no really right way, because they all work.

 

[Ptofimpact]

Is there a product Number or UPC code you can share, I will look online for the clear peel and stick laminate??

 

[Berta]

Is there a product Number or UPC code you can share, I will look online for the clear peel and stick laminate??

Clear contact paper or shelf paper from Walmart or a dollar store. Cheaper and easier than packing tape.

 

[Ptofimpact]

Many Thanks, and that piece you did of the young girl, so lovely, your design?

 

[Berta]

Many Thanks, and that piece you did of the young girl, so lovely, your design?

No it wasn’t. When you start searching the internet for designs, you will be shocked at what’s out there. TIP: it’s easier using Pinterest to do it. They help filter. Get rid of stuff you don’t care for. Choose ‘More like this’.

 

[njohnston924]

Thanks for the tips and suggestions everyone! I've completed my first SS project. Made it for the wife for Valentine's Day. It's red oak and walnut. I found the template on scrollsawworkshop.com.

One more question - is there a general rule of how tight to make the blade? I would assume the tighter it is, the more control you have especially sharp corners, but also more likely to break the blade. I didn't break any blades doing this project, but i could feel when they weren't cutting as well and i would replace it.

 

[cskipper]

You did a great job on that piece!! It sounds like you have a good sense of realizing that your blade has gotten dull. Blade tension is one of the topics on which you will get many opinions but no one answer. You will probably pop a few blades - don't worry about that. I like enough tension to allow no sideways movement of the blade when I exert pressure on it. Others look for a certain sound the blade makes when it is "pinged".

As you scroll you will decide when the tension is sufficient to "follow the line" and turn corners. Again, good job on your completed project. ​