Need tips on replacing a drop in range

[b4man]

...with a slid in.
Know I have to cut out the base, change the hard wire to a 4 wire range receptacle. What I need is some good ideas about how to remove the drop in range and what am I going to find as far a the base
construction was built?

I am trying to avoid surprises.

TIA,

Barbara

 

[Splint Eastwood]

Barbara,

Might be a good idea to post pics of existing unit, both above and below.

We recently did a R & R (remove and replace) of a drop in stove top and was suprisingly simple.

Went from white laminate counter top to marble. And from white ceramic, to glass stove top.

The "cutouts" are relatively standard, and the electrical was identical.

We saved @ $200 + by DIY ing.


Good Luck! Post Pics!

Matt

 

[b4man]

Matt,
Sounds like you only replaced the cook top, right? This is a complete drop in oven/range and I pray it's nearly that simple. I will post pic's tho. I was going today to assess the job but the weather sort of had other ideas . I'm going tomorrow.

Thanks,
Barbara

 

[Splint Eastwood]

Matt,
Sounds like you only replaced the cook top, right? This is a complete drop in oven/range and I pray it's nearly that simple. I will post pic's tho. I was going today to assess the job but the weather sort of had other ideas . I'm going tomorrow.

Thanks,
Barbara

Barbara,

Yes, that's correct. But, I venture to guess that aside from the size/bulkiness issue, should be much the same. But providing more details (pic worth 1,000 words). Is it a gas or electric, laminate counterops vs marble, etc......

You may have to do some kind of edgework, caulking, etc.... if you stayed with the same size unit. 30 inch vs 30 inch surface area, etc......

Def need more info, to have better more informed responses.

Again, Good luck.

Im sure there are plenty of NCWW'rs who may even be able to physically help with your project.

Matt

 

[2slow]

I’ve cut out the base with a sawzall with a long blade. Not much to it. Now, if you replace a drop in range with a free standing range there can occasionally be some problems.

 

[Skymaster]

Barbara I am confused; Are u going drop to drop or Remove drop in to a full slide in? The only gottcha u might find is some drop ins are less than the standard 30" opening. Just taking out the filler base portion is nothing, electric should be the same. If u get to look b4 leaping see if there is a gap on the sides or maybe a filler. A gap may be a good indication that the opening is 30 and they just left some overhang on the top, if so u r golden.

 

[2slow]

Barbara I am confused; Are u going drop to drop or Remove drop in to a full slide in? The only gottcha u might find is some drop ins are less than the standard 30" opening. Just taking out the filler base portion is nothing, electric should be the same. If u get to look b4 leaping see if there is a gap on the sides or maybe a filler. A gap may be a good indication that the opening is 30 and they just left some overhang on the top, if so u r golden.

You are right if they are going with a free standing range. All kinds of issues can come up. [FONT=&quot]Normally, however a drop in and slide in are the same size, just have to cut out the bottom. [/FONT]

 

[terry1166]

Assuming that you currently have a 3 wire range receptacle, unless you run a new 4 wire range circuit you do not want to change the receptacle to a 4 wire to match the new range cord/plug. You will need to change the 4 wire range cord and plug to a three wire cord and plug. At the range cord connection you would connect the new 3 wire cord as follows: 2 hots to the 2 hot terminals, the neutral/ground wire to the neutral terminal and then move the range frame bonding jumper from the current range ground terminal to the range neutral terminal. The same operation applies when installing a new dryer with a 4 wire cord on an older 3 wire circuit. You can get a new 3 wire range cord with plug at most any hardware store.

If you simply changed the wall outlet to a 4 wire outlet to match the 4 wire cord, the range frame would not be grounded.

Terry

 

[b4man]

You guys are GOOD!

Let me clear up some of your questions.

I am replacing a drop in oven/range with a free standing range. Electric. The new one is 4 wire but at the moment, not sure if it's 40 or 50 amps and I need to confirm that.

First, I need to know how one removes the drop in. Are there screws somewhere? Do you take a crowbar and lift it out?

The opening is 30 plus inches so no problem with the new one going in that space.

I get the sawzaw for cutting out the base, thanks! Trimming it might take some creativity?

The wiring is gonna' be a bear. I expect that since it's old it is a 3 wire in a junction box under the oven. Installing a range outlet will be necessary. I have been advised to run a new circuit to the panel to eliminate using the ground for the neutral leaving the frame ungrounded. However, your instructions on how to accommodate the 4th wire seems sound to me! If I understand this correctly it's all about the 110 in the range needing it's own circuit.

I hope to remove the old range today and do whatever needs to be done to get ready for the new one to be delivered Monday.

I appreciate the great comments!

Barbara

 

[Gotcha6]

You may also find that the old range is 'hard wired'. That is, the range is connected to the power source via a piece of flexible metal conduit that goes into a junction box and then from there to the electrical panel using Romex.

 

[petebucy4638]

You guys are GOOD!

Let me clear up some of your questions.

I am replacing a drop in oven/range with a free standing range. Electric. The new one is 4 wire but at the moment, not sure if it's 40 or 50 amps and I need to confirm that.

First, I need to know how one removes the drop in. Are there screws somewhere? Do you take a crowbar and lift it out?

The opening is 30 plus inches so no problem with the new one going in that space.

I get the sawzaw for cutting out the base, thanks! Trimming it might take some creativity?

The wiring is gonna' be a bear. I expect that since it's old it is a 3 wire in a junction box under the oven. Installing a range outlet will be necessary. I have been advised to run a new circuit to the panel to eliminate using the ground for the neutral leaving the frame ungrounded. However, your instructions on how to accommodate the 4th wire seems sound to me! If I understand this correctly it's all about the 110 in the range needing it's own circuit.

I hope to remove the old range today and do whatever needs to be done to get ready for the new one to be delivered Monday.

I appreciate the great comments!

Barbara

Most cooktops just drop into a hole in the counter. They generally use a clip that presses against the counter top to keep them from moving around. You should be able to see them when you get under the counter and look up at the cooktop.

You don't want to just start cutting with a reciprocating saw. To do this job right I would remove the existing counter top and cut it with a circular saw, using a jig to keep the saw cutting straight. Remove the cooktop base cabinet, then use fillers that match your cabinets to trim from the cabinets to the new range. After the range is temporarily in place, measure and cut the counter top.

I would recommend pulling a new 4-wire, 50 amp branch circuit, unless the range manufacturer calls for more capacity. Old code supplied two hot conductors and a ground. New code adds a neutral so that any 110v circuits on the range can be wired correctly and safely.

Pete

 

[8-Ball]

Barbara,

Removing the drop-in range:
Simply slide it forward. The entire range is supported by the countertop... no screws or clips. Gravity holds it in place.

You should be able to slide it forward and gently lower it to a protected floor... then you will have access to the electrical.

Once the range is disconnected from the J-box (electrical will be hard wired), move it away from the base section of cabinetry (drop-in panel).

I'd take a sawzall and cut about 2 inches from the left and right face frame joints to decrease the tension between flanking cabinets. Typically, the face frames on the flanking cabinets are drilled and screws run through and into the drop-in panel. It should be a simple matter of removing two screws on either side of the drop-in panel through the flanking cabinets and pulling the drop-in panel free. Sometimes there is a cleat behind the drop-in panel which is screwed from behind the flanking cabinet face frame so check both locations for screws. There should be a cleat that fastens the toe kick portion of the drop-in panel to the floor or the flanking cabinets (you'll have access to those from behind the panel once the range is out of the cabinets). Usually there is not a supporting frame under the range, so once the drop-in panel is removed you are good to start checking your measurements for installing the slide-in range.

The measurement between flanking cabinets should be 30" at the frame and 30" across the countertop opening (the countertop opening may need to be recut per installation instructions provided with the new range). I wouldn't attempt to remove your existing countertops to make any cuts. Remember that the slide-in range lips over the countertop like your old drop-in did so the the cut doesn't have to be magnificent. You should be able to do it with a jigsaw.... masking tape the counter where you plan to cut. (I'm assuming you have laminate counters).

Electrical:
Determine the amperage of the old circuit and the requirement of the new range. If it is the same, simply remove the j-box and locate a new 4 wire recptacle on the floor. You can wire a 4 wire range into a three wire receptacle if need be. There should be a wiring diagram included in the new range specifications for 3 and 4 wire applications. As an option, you can extend the wire from the existing j-box to the new receptacle if the j-box doesn't interfere with sliding the new range into place.

If the new electrical requirement is greater, then you will have to pull a new 4 conductor line of the appropriate gauge for the amperage requirement.

Hope this helps... I'm a general contractor with 30 years designing and installing kitchens and baths.

Drop-In Range

Slide-In Range

 

[b4man]

@ Mike,
Bingo! I was just about to report my findings and my procedures when I read your post.

I basically did as you suggested with one unfortunate mistake that I woke up this morning realizing. I failed to mask the laminate before cutting with the jigsaw! Yep, tear out right in the front! I know better which really bites!

I did have some good luck tho. The existing range was wired in a piece on conduit straight thru the exterior wall with one turn to the panel. 2 #8 and a ground pulled so all I had to do was pull another 8 for the neutral.

As for removing the range, it had no anti tilt clamp and just as you said, it slid right out. There was a frame built below to level with the counter top. Fortunately, the base was an independent piece of paneling so I was able to just pry it out.

What I hadn't remembered was the countertop had a molded back splash. I cut it with a dovetail saw.

All in all, the thought of the job was more intimidating than it actually was when I got into it.

Thank you all again who responded to my call for help! Just another great example of the wonderful folks here and amazing knowledge and talent we have to draw from.


Barbara

`

 

[Gotcha6]

Laminate can be cut without as much risk of chipping if you use a downstroke blade. You can find them at the BORGs.
Sorry I didn't post it earlier. :gar-Cr

 

[Splint Eastwood]

Barbara,

Read your post, and congrats on the R & R! :eusa_danc

It's a great feeling to DIY and to save a few bucks in the process.

Particularly rewarding when doing kitchen upgrades!

My wife is so happy now, when puttering in the kitchen, much like when Im puttering in my shop.

Congrats again!

Matt