Need Feedback on my feet

[cpowell]

Here's the profile I came up with for the feet. LOML came out to the shop and looked at my first shape and giggled. :-( I softened the edge and this is what I have now.

Feet are 8 inch long x 2 1/4 wide. The actual feet will be 1 3/4 thick and the outer surface will be 7/8 proud of the frame face (also 7/8 thick) so that 7/8 inch will sit under the lower rails and will be glued/pocket screwed to the lower frame. I will apply a 1 inch x 7/8 thick molding strip flush with the top of the feet with a roundover top edge. The sides will be straight - no profile. Side and front corner joints to be mitered.

Chuck

 

[JimThomasson]

On that size piece, to keep things in proportion, you might want to modify your feet (I like the style, by the way) to give more substance to the lines.

Here is a cabinet I made with similar feet:

Just my 2 cents worth!

By the way, if the cabinet looks like it is floating, it is due to hidden casters attached under the base to make it easier to move around on carpet.

 

[dancam]

I agree w/Jim, you could beef the feet up a little to compliment the proportions. BTW...the cabinet is awsome.

Dan C.

 

[Travis Porter]

I like the width of the part that touches the floor better on Jim's than yours Chuck. Seems too "long".

The cabinet has turned out great so far Chuck!

 

[cpowell]

So, shorten the distance between the corner and where the curve starts...ie, shorten the overall distance?

Chuck

 

[Travis Porter]

Yes, that is what I am thinking. It is personal preference, but to me the foot looks too broad. If you wanted to keep the same overall length you could add another curve or something.

 

[dino drosas]

I agree with you guys in that the length of the flat is oversized to the overall length of the foot. Here is a picture of my small blanket chest with a like type foot in a different proportion.

 

[Monty]

One suggestion I would make is to put a "bottom" on your case. Just a molding profile to add another layer to transition from the case to the feet (or maybe you were planning to add that - I can't really tell). Then add to the height of the feet a little. Make it so the part that contacts the floor looks like it goes more straight down to the floor instead of "swept under".

 

[cpowell]

One suggestion I would make is to put a "bottom" on your case. Just a molding profile to add another layer to transition from the case to the feet (or maybe you were planning to add that - I can't really tell). Then add to the height of the feet a little. Make it so the part that contacts the floor looks like it goes more straight down to the floor instead of "swept under".

I'm adding a 1 inch molding above the feet. The top side of the molding will have a roundover to transition to the case. I shortened the "foot length" by 1 inch, removing from the flat side.

Chuck

 

[cpowell]

This is what I ended up with. I will do a few things differently next time. After building the feet and tinkering with molding I know a little more about proportions. This one doesn't look so good but I hope the overall cab design and quality will outshine the ugly feet/molding.

BTW, the feet are 1 3/4 thick, mitered. The side "feet" are straight and are glued/screwed to the case bottom rails. The front feet are glued to the bottom rails - no screws.

Questions: Should I add a backer block to the front feet corners, attaching with screws into the front and side? I don't know that glue would be good since it would be cross grain.

I intended on attaching the molding with glue only. Since the construction is frame and panel, all of the glue surfaces will be long grain. Is it okay to use glue on both the rail edge of the molding and the "foot" edge? I was thinking that the glued surfaces will add a lot of strength to help prevent the front feet from potential damage if it is dragged on carpet, etc. The miter joint should prevent inward foot movement.

Back bracing...a simple 45-45-90 triangle with screws into the rear rail and side foot. Hopefully I can get a forstner bit to cut into the angled triangle sides and provide a flat surface to drill the screw holes.

I believe this is my 1000th post so it is only fitting that this is a quest for advice from this great group!

Chuck

 

[MikeH]

Nice work Chuck! I see your testing those clamps out too! :eusa_clap Oh and CONGRATS on your 1000th post.