Need advice: Older door in need of refinishing

[hymie123]

I am purchasing a house that has an older front door which is very solid but weathered. I am not even sure what type of wood the door is made but it has turned gray at the bottom over the years. I'd like to get the door back to a consistent color and know what is the best finish to consider? Does anyone have any advice on how to refinish this door?

 

[PeteM]

Nice door! Definitely worth spending some time on it.

Google is your friend. Lots-O-Info out there on this subject.

Here's a good start:

STAIN-AND-CLEAR FINISH:

• Clark Hall Doors recommends Sikkens stain products. We believe they provide the highest quality and longest lasting protection for any of our doors. Protect your investment. We have found Sikkens will out last any other finish two to one.
• When not using a Sikkens, apply a wood conditioner to the entire product prior to
  staining to help reduce the color variations and blotches that are natural characteristics to all wood
• Choose a stain with UV prohibitors as the sun will drastically change many stain colors. All Sikkens stains provide the highest UV protection in the industry.
• To color and seal, make first coat a stain-and-sealer with alkyd-resin base. (Lacquer-based toner,
  water and lacquer-based finished are not for exterior doors.)
• Second coat to be solvent borne (oil base, alkyd resin base). We suggest Spar or Marine Urethane. Min Wax makes a great product for this as well. Avoid polyurethanes because they tend to breakdown with UV Rays causing your door direct exposure to the elements.
• Lightly sand with 5/0 (220 grit) sandpaper or 000 steel wool between each top coat. Remove dust before recoating. Minimum of 3 top coats required.
• After completion; score around each panel with razor knife to allow for expansion and contraction.

 

[hymie123]

Thanks Pete, Good overview of the process and recommendation for stain and finish.

 

[DaveD]

Look into having the door commercially striped.

 

[farmerbw]

Once you've prepped and picked a stain, if that's the way you decide to go, top coat with clear paint. For more info on that you can check my previous post where Howard shared some valuable info on getting the right stuff.

HTH,
Brian.

 

[hymie123]

Brian,

This is really interesting. I read the article written by Jim Kull
http://www.hardwoodlumberandmore.co.../75/ArticleId/26/Paint-On-A-Clear-Finish.aspx


It sounds like I want to use untinted oil based Trim and siding paint? Have you used a particular product you can recommend?

Thanks

 

[farmerbw]

Jim, that is correct based on what Howard, and Jim's article, shared. I have not had an opportunity to try my luck at getting any of the specified oil based products at a "real" paint store as of yet. I will warn you that the Water based versions don't perform the same way on all woods, as I found out the hard way. :BangHead: I was going to give the closest Sherwin Williams store a try and see how much grief they give me after asking for "clear paint" and explaining what I want from them as far as untinted base. I'd be interested in how you fair if you have the opportunity before me!! :gar-Bi

Brian.

 

[FlyingRon]

I agree...I've tried marine varnishes and clear oil based finishes and the best I believe is definitely "Sikkens cetol door and window" stuff. You need three coats separated by 24 hours, but it will do nicely.

http://www.paintsource.net/pages/products/sikkens/door_and_window/door_&_window_satin.htm

 

[MarkDarby]

If you have it commercially stripped, don't let them dip it. My Dad had my Grandparent's dining room table and the glued up legs -- were no longer glued. Also, if the graying at the bottom of the door remains after the stripping, you may want to consider bleaching the wood. Not my first choice, but have had to bleach a veneered desktop to remove another's attempt at finishing. Worked pretty good -- but its caustic so wear gloves and don't do it in a room that is not well ventilated. Final word -- after you strip, look at the wood after you wipe mineral oil over it and look at the grain pattern. If you like what you see and really want it to pop, then consider sealing the wood and using a tinted wood filler.

Mark

 

[hymie123]

Mark, do you think the gray will come out by lightly sanding and/or applying stain before I apply the finish? Great idea to use a tinted wood filler to make the grain pop.

Thanks
Jim

 

[MarkDarby]

Jim,
Its hard to tell. Stripping will only take off the finish -- won't touch the stain that is in the wood. If the light got to that wood, it will bleach it over time. Light sanding may work. If not, then you may try staining the whole door. If that doesn't work, then bleach is easy and relatively inexpensive -- $25 to $30 for the bleach and neutralizer together.

Mark

 

[Sharp]

Hey Jim

The door looks to have sun spots along with patches of attached finish that can cause allot of problems with color consistency and make it difficult to choose a proper finish because outdoor finishes don't always get along. It is a project but you may want to remove the door and peal off as much trim as you can to get a flat surface and remove all of the finish and enough material to get consistent color and apply whatever finish you want to the door.

Jason

 

[hymie123]

Jason,

Good assessment. I think you are right I need to remove the iron and trim then sand and/or scrape to get a consistent looking door. There have been several members with great advice on stain & finish products to use which I need to investigate.


Jim