Natural Gas Heater?

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MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Hey Everyone,

I know it's early, but my wife said to me the other day, you better get looking into a heater for this garage~! It's Gonna get really cold in the winter (I'm in Logan Utah).

At first I couldn't believe my wife was telling me to buy something.:elvis:

Anyway I have a Natural Gas connection in my patio area that is between the house and the garage with a fence on either side (So it's private).

Is there a Natural Gas heater I can get for the garage? or even just a Grille? I know Ray Kleber has an open flame propane heater.

Thanks for the Help, Advice, or Opinions~! :notworthy:


I just found this at Northern tool, seems to be in my price range...$169.99 at 30,000btu
What do you all think? I have a standard 2 car garage the garage door, and normal 32" door, no stairs.

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...s&cm_ite=173962?ci_src=14110944&ci_sku=173962


Matthew
 
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b4man

New User
Barbara
Hey Matthew!
I have a similar unit in my shop but it's propane. It works well. Takes about 30 minutes to heat up the shop but then it's comfortable. Good luck.


Barbara
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Barbara,

Do you ever have problems with headaches? I had a friends propane heater for a while in NC and man oh man I would get bad headaches. And my wife said she could smell the propane in the house after about an hour of it running.

Do you think I would the same problems with Natural gas? It heats my home now, so I don't see why it would, but then again I do have an air inlet. The garage does has a vent on top on the roof, so maybe I'll be alright???


Thanks Barbara
 

b4man

New User
Barbara
It's ventless unit so I've never noticed any fumes. Sort of like the fire place logs. If you have a Granger's out there, check them out too. I doesn't matter if it's propane or natural as long as it's ventless and you get the right 'valve' ( not the word but too brain dead to think of it!) My unit is about 4 years old and the only issue is the dust that settles in the fire box. Not a hazard so far and I blow it out occasionally.
We miss you back here :) Thanks for staying with us tho!

Barbara
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Ah,

That makes sense. The unit I looked at is a vent less one, but wasn't sure what it meant. Thanks~!

I think you might mean fitting? Welp I think I might get it, if that is my Wife Approves. I would like to get a heater/ac combo, but then I would need to have a hole in the wall and a swamp cooler or something on the outside. Can't do it in the town homes I live in, especially since I don't own it.

Thank you Barbara, I miss NC too, and miss everyone form NCWW. And of course I would still keep in touch with all my awesome woodworking buddies, that know so much more than I do. So Thanks for all the help and advice, it really comes in handy.

Matthew
 

scsmith42

New User
Scott Smith
Hi Matt - it's good to hear from you!

For years, for a garge heater I used an old gas furnace that was a "good used takout" from a home upgrade. A friend of mine who ran an HVAC company got it for me.

It was a high efficiency "vent" type (my preference, as the fumes give me a headache), and I installed it myself. For a duct, we simply bent up some sheetmetal to create a cap on the top of the unit (the discharge side), and cut an opening in the side for a grill.

You might want to talk to some local HVAC contractors or check craigslist for a good used takout. The main thing is to get one with good burners.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Matt, I will be removing an infa red NG heater in the near future. I installed it several years ago in a fireplace. (It will be for sale.)The lady has only used it twice, other me going by in the fall to make sure it works. It was for emergency heat only. She wants to replace it with gas logs (resale value.) It probably has less than three hours total operation time on it. I have the identical heater in propane version in my shop. It's either 30,000, 0r 35,000 BTU's. I can't remember which. It has an automatic thermostat built into the unit.
 

Glennbear

Moderator
Glenn
I think what Barbara was referring to was the orifice which are specific to the fuel used. In my last house I used a free standing vent free natural gas stove /fireplace in the living room and it did a great job. The nice thing about a vent free is that 100% of the BTU's produced stay in the space you are heating, I never had a problem with fumes and these units do have an ODS (oxygen depletion sensor) for safety. The only caution I would give is to be mindful that we are dealing with an open flame so watch dust accumulation and NO finish spraying! :wsmile:
 

dlrion

New User
Dan
Matt,

The heater I loaned you was Kerosene, not Propane! It heated the garage up like a champ but Kerosene heaters are notorious for stinking!

Don't get a combo AC/Heater Unit and expect it to be effective in Utah. This is called a heat pump and they work GREAT in NC but suck in Utah because NC rarely drops down below 30 degrees for extended periods of time. You are in LOGAN which in the winter, rarely rises ABOVE 30 degrees most of the time. Heat pumps are rarely effective below freezing temperatures.

Another suggestion, before you buy this one from the store (which sounds like an excellent deal) check the local Pawn Shops. I once found a really nice propane heater for $30 at a pawn shop. The one I got was a small "Salamander Heater" used on construction sites and would run for a long time on a single tank. If you have a natural gas connection though... I would look for a natural gas one.
 

jmauldin

New User
Jim
I heat my shop (20x30) with a vented propane heater. It is also a sealed unit, so it is safe to spray finishes. Maybe it's just me, but I once used a ventless propane heater. It did a great job of heating, etc., but after a while I noticed my tools and machines beginning to rust. The ventless heater adds moisture to the air, whereas a vented one does not. Just a thought to consider.
Jim in Mayberry
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Hi Matt - it's good to hear from you!

For years, for a garge heater I used an old gas furnace that was a "good used takout" from a home upgrade. A friend of mine who ran an HVAC company got it for me.

It was a high efficiency "vent" type (my preference, as the fumes give me a headache), and I installed it myself. For a duct, we simply bent up some sheetmetal to create a cap on the top of the unit (the discharge side), and cut an opening in the side for a grill.

You might want to talk to some local HVAC contractors or check craigslist for a good used takout. The main thing is to get one with good burners.


That would be nice Scott,

But I only have a two car garage and have pretty much used it all up now. Plus I would have no place to vent it, except the 36" door, which I think might be a little too much venting?

I will check craigslist. The thing about Utah, everyone wants a heater for the winter and they don't seem to drop the prices like they do in NC.
 

BumoutBob

New User
Bob
My gas Co here in Western NC just told me the better gas heater to buy is the direct vent type. The reason stated is that these IR heaters move a lot of air and woodworking dust begins to plug up the small orifices. From what I been reading here, many of of you use this 99.9% type---have you had any trouble like this?

Nobody mentioned a unit with a thermostat. I have seen indoor gas cast iron stoves that had one and it could run all night unattended. Once you get all those cast iron tools and the concrete floor up to 65 it's easier to hold the temp with out to much heat. Yea, those cast iron units are a bit pricey. Bob
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Matt,

The heater I loaned you was Kerosene, not Propane! It heated the garage up like a champ but Kerosene heaters are notorious for stinking!

My bad, it sure did help though.

Don't get a combo AC/Heater Unit and expect it to be effective in Utah. This is called a heat pump and they work GREAT in NC but suck in Utah because NC rarely drops down below 30 degrees for extended periods of time. You are in LOGAN which in the winter, rarely rises ABOVE 30 degrees most of the time. Heat pumps are rarely effective below freezing temperatures.

Hey Dan I was thinking more like ones I saw in Okinawa, I think they were more like swamp coolers, and now that I think about it, the water would freeze anyway. Here's a link of one

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http://news.3yen.com/wp-content/images/japanese-engineering.jpg


And here's another: http://global.mitsubishielectric.com/bu/air/products/room_air.html

Another suggestion, before you buy this one from the store (which sounds like an excellent deal) check the local Pawn Shops. .

I will for sure check the pawn shops, I have got some good things from them before.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
Matt, I will be removing an infa red NG heater in the near future. I installed it several years ago in a fireplace. (It will be for sale.)The lady has only used it twice, other me going by in the fall to make sure it works. It was for emergency heat only. She wants to replace it with gas logs (resale value.) It probably has less than three hours total operation time on it. I have the identical heater in propane version in my shop. It's either 30,000, 0r 35,000 BTU's. I can't remember which. It has an automatic thermostat built into the unit.


I may be interested, PM me and let me know the price. I do live in Utah though.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
My gas Co here in Western NC just told me the better gas heater to buy is the direct vent type. The reason stated is that these IR heaters move a lot of air and woodworking dust begins to plug up the small orifices. From what I been reading here, many of of you use this 99.9% type---have you had any trouble like this?

Nobody mentioned a unit with a thermostat. I have seen indoor gas cast iron stoves that had one and it could run all night unattended. Once you get all those cast iron tools and the concrete floor up to 65 it's easier to hold the temp with out to much heat. Yea, those cast iron units are a bit pricey. Bob



How about cracking open my 36" door or garage door a tad? Would that be enough? The roof does have a heat vent, but I don't thinks it's motorized, is that enough? Or I could vent the one window in the garage. It's just the fact that I live in a Townhouse that I don't own and there really is no other way to vent it besides the 3 ways I just mentioned.

I am still up for ways I may work with what I got~!
 

Wolfpacker

New User
Brent
I put in a NG heater last winter. Electric space heaters will work if you have enough circuits to run about 6 of them at a time or have 220 volt receptacles available in your garage. I didn't have either to support electric heat, so bought a used heater for $75 off craigslist. It's 30K btu's and warms up nicely. I made a stand to put it on and use a 10 ft flexible hose to move it around a bit and store it in the basement for summer.

I was advised to stay away from infra red as it's feature is to warm objects vs. the air and the dust can clog up the "bricks" or whatever they're called. I believe the term you want is "space heater" vs. infra red. Space heaters heat the air vs. objects directly in front of them.

Once you get the garage warm, you probably only need 10K btu's, so you could get by with a 10K btu heater, but it'll take longer to heat up the garage. If you can find a good used one for under $100 and in the 18K to 30K btu range, I think you'll be happy with it.

Hope this helps,
Brent
 

BumoutBob

New User
Bob
Cracking a window sounds like a good plan. Make yourself an insert with a screened hole to vent a little fresh air in. If the window is in the right place you might be able to pipe a direct vent unit through it.

My gas heater is not hooked up yet and I use a kerosene heater --- 23,000BTU. See these all the time in the thrift stores in Western NC. New they run $100 or so. Yes they stink but are not so bad while running. When I turn mine off I set it outside until it cools off.

I also have a propane single panel IR camping type gas heater. Found a bottle extension (Ace hardware) and use it with a 25 Lb bottle off my grill.
 

Bigdog72

New User
Geoff
I bought this gas heater (called Mr Heater) at Northern Tool last year. There are two sizes. This the smaller one and it heats my 16x24 shop just fine. I crack a window or the door to vent but there have been no fume or moisture problems. Runs off a 20 lb propane cylinder.

Heater.jpg
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
I bought this gas heater (called Mr Heater) at Northern Tool last year. There are two sizes. This the smaller one and it heats my 16x24 shop just fine. I crack a window or the door to vent but there have been no fume or moisture problems. Runs off a 20 lb propane cylinder.

Heater.jpg


Are you sure that's the 'small' model? I have the unit pictured above (18,000 BTU), which I keep for emergency heat (in the event of generator problems during our ice storms). The smaller Mr Heater Buddy-line heater is a 9,000 BTU heater with a single burner (ceramic element), the larger (pictured above) has two burners for a total of 18,000 BTU. Also, the 18k BTU heater has a battery (or AC with adapter) forced air fan to help warm the air as well. It is a wonderful heater for emergency heat.

They also run off of one (9,000 BTU model) or two (18,000 BTU) 16-17oz disposable propane cylinders -- which is what I maintain a stock of since mine is for indoor use only. It is generally NOT a good idea to bring 20lb cylinders indoors -- in the event of fire, fire-fighters may choose not to enter a structure if they know a 20lb cylinder is being stored indoors.

You should not need to crack any windows or doors with the above heater as it is a residential indoor vent-free heater, including an oxygen depletion sensor to boot (as well as a thermocouple and tip-over sensors). That said, it is always a good idea use a CO (Carbon Monoxide) detector
in conjunction with any vent-free heater in the rare event that your unit develops a defect resulting in incomplete combustion. Just be sure to protect your CO detector during periods of dust-generation or when spraying finishes or lubricants which may damage your CO detector (and which should never be used while an open flame is present any how).

Personally, I would prefer to avoid using any sort of open flame heating device as my shop's primary heat source -- just to easy (at least with my forgetfullness) to forget you have the heater running while you are sanding, finishing, lubricating, etc. If I were to use propane, natural gas, or oil heating for my shop, my preference would be for a heater equipped with an isolated combustion chamber that draws its combustion air from outdoors and vents its exhaust outdoors. You'll be able to run such a heater any time you wish without concern that an open flame may spontaneously ignite dust or vapors.
 

MrAudio815

New User
Matthew
I put in a NG heater last winter. Electric space heaters will work if you have enough circuits to run about 6 of them at a time or have 220 volt receptacles available in your garage. I didn't have either to support electric heat, so bought a used heater for $75 off craigslist. It's 30K btu's and warms up nicely. I made a stand to put it on and use a 10 ft flexible hose to move it around a bit and store it in the basement for summer.

I was advised to stay away from infra red as it's feature is to warm objects vs. the air and the dust can clog up the "bricks" or whatever they're called. I believe the term you want is "space heater" vs. infra red. Space heaters heat the air vs. objects directly in front of them.

Once you get the garage warm, you probably only need 10K btu's, so you could get by with a 10K btu heater, but it'll take longer to heat up the garage. If you can find a good used one for under $100 and in the 18K to 30K btu range, I think you'll be happy with it.

Hope this helps,
Brent


Hey Brent,

Since you said it, Don't get a infa red heater.

I was wondering if this is a good deal at $35. It's a radiant heater, which I still think is a infa red heater???
30,000 BTU 5-Plaque Natural Gas Radiant Heater - $35 (Bountiful)

Date: 2010-07-31, 10:53AM MDT
Reply to: sale-ukwjm-1873325818@craigslist.org [Errors when replying to ads?]



30,000 BTU 5-Plaque Natural Gas Radiant Heater. Similar to photo but in black. Photo is newer model with thermostat but ours has 3 constant on heat settings; 1, 3, and 5 plaque.

  • Location: Bountiful
  • it's NOT ok to contact this poster with services or other commercial interests
3n43o33lc5Y45X35R1a7vc7d14bf6c3511924.jpg




If it's not a good deal, then I will be getting this one:
http://www.ruralking.com/heater-blue-flame-nat-30-000-vf-mh.html





Mr. Heater 30,000 BTU Natural Gas Blue Flame Heater MHVFB30TBNG

SKU: 060531069
1 Review(s) | Add Your Review
Have a question? Ask it here!


Availability: In stock
Usually ships in 1 to 2 business days.
$199.99


Of course I will need a little over a 12foot hose at another $45.02 for a 12' hose which will put the hose barely in my garage. The connection is on the back wall of my hose and the garage is 11' away. so I will have 1' in the door. :swoon:

Thanks for your help~!

Matthew
 
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