Mortising 8" stock with mortising machine?

[Dorm]

My mortising machine only accepts up to 5-1/2" material in order to clear the tool base and mortising chisel (barely!). I have a project wherein I'll use rough cut 2"x8" material and have several mortises to punch. I have an adjustable drill press and Fostner bits as an alternative, but wondered if any member had run into the same situation and was able to do a work around with the mortising machine or other. I can go the Fostner bit route, but would rather use the mortising machine so as to keep the work output as precision as possible. Suggestions or comments??

Thanks ... Dorm

 

[ehpoole]

Does your mortiser permit the head unit to be reversed, allowing you to shim up the base and then use the workbench to support your stock for mortising? I ask as my Powermatic benchtop mortiser permits such head reversal so you may wish to look into whether yours also supports such capability.

Edit: Just a reminder that if the head is reversed the mortiser must be either clamped down or bolted to the bench or it will likely fall forward when you try to make a mortise since the table is no longer under compressive force when you lower the mortiser.

 

[KenOfCary]

My answer was the exact same as Ethan - he beat me to it. If the mortiser's head can be rotated - some can - you'll be good to go. And definitely clamp things down good.

I also have a Powermatic Benchtop mortiser that allows this. It is also useful to allow mortises in the ends of pieces of stock. Good luck with your project.

 

[Dorm]

I'm not sure my machine is reversible ... it's a Central Machinery brand from Harbor Freight. After looking at the on-line images, it may reverse, but I'm not sure. Thanks for the tip ... I'll take a look.

Ciao ... Dorm

 

[Chris C]

Sorry..couldn't help myself

 

[mamell]

A good mallet and long, hefty chisels would do the trick. 8 inches though sounds like a lot of pounding if you go that route. So far every mortise I've chopped has been with the bang bang bang method. Good quality, very sharp chisels are a must though.. A good heavy mallet probably wouldn't hurt either unless you slip and bang your fingers.

Guilty as charged..

 

[CrealBilly]

Brace, slick, mallet

 

[Phil S]

Just measured my Steelex mortiser. It can do 7 1/2" If that is enough you can bring your wood over and use it

 

[Dorm]

Thanks all for the replies. I only need 15 or so, 1-1/2" - 2"depth holes for my pickets, so I may decide to drill and hand chisel ... I'm just not to that point yet. And Phil ... many thanks for offering the use of your machine. I'll pm you should I get to that point.

I've also considered dadoing a slot down the center of the edge and glue splines between the pickets to get the spacing and mortise depth I needed. I've done this before with handrails around a porch and it worked OK and allows me to get a good fit.

Ciao ... Dorm

 

[chris_goris]

My mortising machine only accepts up to 5-1/2" material in order to clear the tool base and mortising chisel (barely!). I have a project wherein I'll use rough cut 2"x8" material and have several mortises to punch. I have an adjustable drill press and Fostner bits as an alternative, but wondered if any member had run into the same situation and was able to do a work around with the mortising machine or other. I can go the Fostner bit route, but would rather use the mortising machine so as to keep the work output as precision as possible. Suggestions or comments??

Thanks ... Dorm

Can you use a plunge router and a template? then either leave the corners radiused and bevel your tenon or simply square the corners with a chisel