Mortise Chisel Set - yard sale find ???

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dino drosas

Dino
Corporate Member
I recently found this set of Bracht (made in Germany) chisels. They are metric sized; 6, 8, 10 and 12mm, a bit rusty and appear to have never been used. Question is: how should you sharpen them? If you lay the bevels on a wheel you get a pretty deep hollow grind since the bevels are so long. My guess would be to sharpen the bevels flat. It does not seem to me that they need to be as razor sharp as a bench chisel since most of the work is chopping.

mortise_chisels.jpg
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Great find!

Yes, lay the bevel flat on a diamond plate or use the scary sharp method of sandpaper on glass or marble.
 

dancam

Dan
Corporate Member
Hey Dino,

Nice find. The Worksharp 3000 would be perfect for sharpening...oops!

Dan C.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I wouldn't give them away.

http://pecktool.com/

6mm (1/4") Mortise Chisel $34.50

8mm (5/16") Mortise Chisel $34.50

10mm (3/8") Mortise Chisel $34.50

12mm (1/2") Mortise Chisel $39.50



These heavy-duty mortise chisels have round Hornbeam handles. Built for a lifetime of professional use, these chisels come polished and machine sharpened. Final honing to suit the user's preference is recommended. Handles are 6 1/2" long, blades range from 6 1/2" to 8" long. Blades are 9/16" thick.

We are proud to be the sole importer of Heinrich Bracht products, made by Wilh. Schmitt & Company in Remscheid, Germany. This company has been manufacturing fine woodworking tools for over 140 years. The highest quality tempered steel hardened to Rockwell 61.5 is what enables these chisels to hold an edge.

Model: 100-2012
Shipping Weight: 1.1lbs
Manufactured by: Heinrich Bracht
 

willarda

New User
Bill Anderson
I have used the Worksharp 3000 to shape my mortise chisels. These are the oval bolstered type chisels, so they have a serious body thickness to them. I would sharpen them to 30 degrees and maybe even put a small micro bevel on the edge, although I am not generally a fan of microbevels (when you resharpen, you either sharpen on the minute microbevel or you have to regrind the bevel). Actually, I first rough shape the bevels on a belt sander (I use the Norton blue zirconia paper) so that I do not have to hog off a lot on the Worksharp. The quality of the bevel on the Worksharp is astounding. (BTW, I bought extra glass plates so that I could have the same grit on both sides. This allows me to work the bevel and to flatten the back of chisels with the same grit at the same time).

I have also sharpened the existing bevels on mortise chisels using a medium diamond stone, then following with my 800, 1200 and 4000 grit waterstones. I hold the chisel freehand, which works well since the bevel is so large. On the diamond stone I push the blade forward to shape it, but on the waterstones, I drag the blade back, to keep from putting a serious gouge in the stones.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Bill,

Just a question. When I flatten my chisels I work through a set of grits to get a flat smooth surface on the back. But, once I have that I never go back to the rough grit. I just use 600 or higher to knock off the burr.

Are you saying you reflatten the back each time you sharpen or do you just do it the one time and use the fine grit on the back from then on? And if you do the back each time, WHY?
 

willarda

New User
Bill Anderson
You are right: I almost never go back and reflatten the back after I have done it once. I usually touch it up on my 4000 grit. OTOH, I often have many chisels to resharpen after a workshop (40 or so sometimes). Sometimes they are nicked or abused. Also sometimes the chisel is not flat across the whole back, but just in an arc encompassing the cutting edge. If I have to grind out the cutting edge to remove a nick, then I often have to redo the back to get a sufficient area of flattness near the cutting edge.
 

froglips

New User
Jim Campbell
Sounds like if you want some practice, pop over to Bill's after a workshop :)

40 chisels, thats a long days work!

Jim
 
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