More Grizzly 10010anv stuff

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PeteStaehling

New User
Pete
I received my new 10010ANV, a grading stone, and a #1 accessory kit few days ago and I have a few observations and questions. It seems like a nice solid well made piece of equipment, but with a few shortcomings.

The water tray seems poorly designed. They could have done a better job of creating a tray that catches more of the slop. I may either try making a better tray or I may decide to just live with the slop and clean up the spilled water after each use.

So far I have not found the leather wheel to my liking. It wobbles a little, but don't I think that is really a big problem. I'd rather see it not wobble, but it is what it is and probably doesn't really hurt anything. What does bother me is it doesn't seem to remove the burr and polish the edge very well. Not sure if I just need to get used to and learn to use it better.

Maybe I am impatient because I am accustomed to to using a leather belt on a cheap harbor Freight 1X30 belt grinder. I use it with the smooth side of the belt out and use a block of compound that came with the belt. They recommended using the rough side, but I found that I liked the smooth side better. I hone on the unsupported part of the belt and it goes really quickly. I am not getting that kind of quick results on the 10010ANV leather wheel.

The grinder side works well but is really VERY slow if the edge needs to be shaped or if large nicks need to be ground out. So I feel like I still need another grinder for rough grinding first and something else for honing (either a leather belt on belt grinder or maybe paper wheels on a buffer/grinder).

While I like the wet wheel side very well for what it does well, those revelations were a bit of a disappointment for me. Am I missing something in use of this grinder that would me the reason for those issues rather than the grinder itself?

Does anyone here have other suggestions for resolving those issues?
 

frankc4113

Frank C
Corporate Member
I guess that no one has to tell you this but I'm pretty sure that when we buy any Grizzly product, they are manufactured for a certain price point. Thus, we have to give up something to buy at that price. Another example is Harbor Freight, where the price point is so low in most cases, that they are close to zero in quality. Even their dust collector, which many of us have, is pretty good but for a machine that supposedly has 2 HP, does it really?
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have heard others complain about the leather on the strop side. Some have replaced it with a better / thicker piece of leather. You'll want to charge it with something. Either one of the honing compounds available at wood working stores like Klingspor or I find that valve grinding paste from the Auto Parts stores works very well as a honing compound. It is available in multiple grits.

The slow slow speed wet wheel was really not made for shaping but for sharpening. Get a slow-speed grinder or regular grinder for that job. I don't have any wobble in my grinder from Grizzly but that is one of the things you risk when buying things you can't try out in the store first. You might be able to better balance the wheel with some weights if the problem is not in the bearings.
 

PeteStaehling

New User
Pete
I guess that no one has to tell you this but I'm pretty sure that when we buy any Grizzly product, they are manufactured for a certain price point. Thus, we have to give up something to buy at that price.
True, but I suspect that some and probably most of my complaints would apply to the much more expensive Tormek. The wobbly leather wheel is the most likely exception, but I doubt that I'd like the wheel even if it didn't wobble.

The funny thing is that the various accessories are where I see most complaints and people spring for Tormek. I found the Grizzly ones to be pretty good, so I am unlikely to replace them with pricier Tormek ones.

You'll want to charge it with something.
I tried both the Tormek stuff and what came from Grizzly without much joy. I suspect that I prefer a faster wheel or belt for that function

The slow slow speed wet wheel was really not made for shaping but for sharpening. Get a slow-speed grinder or regular grinder for that job. I don't have any wobble in my grinder from Grizzly but that is one of the things you risk when buying things you can't try out in the store first. You might be able to better balance the wheel with some weights if the problem is not in the bearings.
I figured that out pretty quickly, but I hoped it could be used for blades in worse shape than it works well with. As you suggest, I will use a regular grinder for shaping and rougher cleanup of damaged edges. As far as the wobble goes... the grinding side has no noticeable wobble.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
I received my new 10010ANV, a grading stone, and a #1 accessory kit few days ago and I have a few observations and questions. It seems like a nice solid well made piece of equipment, but with a few shortcomings.

The water tray seems poorly designed. They could have done a better job of creating a tray that catches more of the slop. I may either try making a better tray or I may decide to just live with the slop and clean up the spilled water after each use.
I had the same complaint about the water tray. After a couple of fix attempts that did not work, I bit the bullet and bought this Tormek trough.
So far I have not found the leather wheel to my liking. It wobbles a little, but don't I think that is really a big problem. I'd rather see it not wobble, but it is what it is and probably doesn't really hurt anything. What does bother me is it doesn't seem to remove the burr and polish the edge very well. Not sure if I just need to get used to and learn to use it better.
My leather wheel wobbles as well, but I do get pretty good results using it, none the less. I typically end up touching up the back side of irons on a DMT stone or just a leather strop glued to a piece of mdf which works a little better, I think?

The grinder side works well but is really VERY slow if the edge needs to be shaped or if large nicks need to be ground out. So I feel like I still need another grinder for rough grinding first and something else for honing (either a leather belt on belt grinder or maybe paper wheels on a buffer/grinder).

I had this Tormek TT-50 Truing and Dressing tool from when I had a Tormek T-3. I found that moving the diamond across the wheel quickly leaves a slightly coarser surface which removes metal quite a bit faster. It's not going to be as fast as a standard grinder, but it is safer, no chance of burning the edge.
 

PeteStaehling

New User
Pete
I had the same complaint about the water tray. After a couple of fix attempts that did not work, I bit the bullet and bought this Tormek trough.
I may need to go that route, but first I think I'll live with it for a while and see if I come up with a diy solution that I like.

My leather wheel wobbles as well, but I do get pretty good results using it, none the less. I typically end up touching up the back side of irons on a DMT stone or just a leather strop glued to a piece of mdf which works a little better, I think?
Funny thing, after some use it stopped wobbling, well almost anyway. Also I am getting used to it and think that it may be better than I thought at first glance.

I had this Tormek TT-50 Truing and Dressing tool from when I had a Tormek T-3. I found that moving the diamond across the wheel quickly leaves a slightly coarser surface which removes metal quite a bit faster. It's not going to be as fast as a standard grinder, but it is safer, no chance of burning the edge.
I wonder how it compares to using the Grizzly grading stone. The grading stone has two sides and claims to leave the wheel at something like 220 with one side and 1000 with the other.
 
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MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
I have used the Tormek grading stone and did not see much difference. The truing tool made a big difference, and, obviously, trued up the wheel.
 

PeteStaehling

New User
Pete
I have used the Tormek grading stone and did not see much difference. The truing tool made a big difference, and, obviously, trued up the wheel.
I can see and feel a difference, and it does seem to cut faster when hit with the course side for 20-30 seconds of hard pressure. I doubt that the difference is 220 vs 1000 in actual use, but I do see a difference.
 

MarkE

Mark
Corporate Member
Could be that I was just not using the grading stone correctly.

I use the T10010 to form an edge and/or remove nicks and such. For that reason I want it to cut faster and a slightly rough finish s okay. I always touch up the edge after grinding on the DMT diamond stones.
 

PeteStaehling

New User
Pete
Funny thing, after some use it stopped wobbling, well almost anyway. Also I am getting used to it and think that it may be better than I thought at first glance.
Just a quick follow up...
Not sure if I just got used to it or it it actually improved, but the leather wheel just got better and better as I used it more.
 
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