Miter bar material?

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dazart

New User
Steve
So when I first started out I watched videos about using a hardwood for creating miter bars for jigs. I didn't know hardwood from softwood, but thought using metal instead of wood so I wouldn't have to worry about expansion and contraction of the wood I bought some rockler aluminum ones. Now that I'm looking to make a few more jigs, I'm not sure I want to spend $20 per bar.

I still don't want to use hardwood, ONLY because I'm lazy and the nearest wood place I know of is about 45-60 minutes away. Assuming I have to bite the bullet, what kind of hardwood should I use, and why is plywood not an option?
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
You can buy aluminum bar stock 3/8" x 3/4" x 8' for less than $20.
Check Grainger, McMaster-Carr and other industrial supply sources.
 

ehpoole

Administrator
Ethan
The reason you will want to use metal or a good hardwood is to resist the inevitable wear and tear that will increase the slop in the miterslot over time. Plywood is generally not suitable because most plywood uses rather soft pine for most, if not all, of the plys. You could get away with Baltic Birch plywood if you must use plywood, but the harder the wood the better. Metal has the added benefit of only changing dimension slightly with changes in temperature while wood can change significantly with changes in humidity leading to slides that may be overly snug in high humidity and overly loose in low humidity (though harder woods often move less). But good woods for runners would be hardwoods along the lines of hard maple, oaks, purpleheart, etc. — anything that scores reasonably well on the Janka scale.
 

JimD

Jim
Senior User
Mike is right, I went to McMaster Carr, because I use them and think they give good service. Their part number 8975K615 is a 6 foot bar of 6061 aluminum that is 3/4 wide by 3/8 thick and it goes for $12.63. One not so great thing about them is you don't know shipping until it ships but I would guess it might be another $5. You could also order steel or another grade of aluminum from them, they have lots and lots of options. Including plastic - might be an option.

But if you want to use wood, oak would work fine. Hickory is a bit harder. These are both hardwoods - which just means that the tree looses it's leaves in the winter. Some deciduous trees - don't loose trees in winter so softwoods - are harder than poplar which is a hardwood. But generally hardwoods are harder. Both oak and hickory are pretty strong too.
 

Gripbd

BD
User
Check out scrap/salvage yards. I’ve found found scrapped aluminum, which they will resell priced by the pound.
 

Tom from Clayton

tom
Corporate Member
Many people use the plastic used to make cheap cutting boards. Apparently you can cut it to size on the table saw. Check out You Tube.
 

Claus

Claus
User
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I used some some oak scraps. Quatersawn to minimize expansion/contraction. But so that they could be adjusted if it was necessary I added some small brass screws in the side. Brass won't scratch up a steel miter slot. So far I haven't needed the adjustment. Ignore the smudges, that's just candle wax for lubrication.

--Claus
 

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Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
Isn't the Woodworking Source still open in Mooresville? It's not THAT far from H'ville....
 

frankc4113

Frank C
Corporate Member
If you go on e-bay and look around for 3/4" X 3/8" aluminum bar stock and/or channel, you can get it for about 50 or 60 cents a foot including shipping. It may take a little doing but it can be had for that price.

Of course, you would have to drill it out and thread it if you need to use it that way. Also, if you want to guaranty a perfect fit in a 3/4" wide slot, it can be drilled and threaded on the side for a set screw which is available in any Home Depot, Lowes or most hardware stores.

The 3/4" X 3/8' bar stock sold by Rockler amounts to about $1.45 a foot. Pretty color of blue but pricey.
 
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Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Before buying bar stock check your miter slot width. They are not always 3/4" wide. That's why commercial metal runners have adjustment for fit.

I've tried the plastic cutting boards. They will work, but they are too flexible so you have to make a dado first. Adds more fussing around to the project.

You may also want look at Azak. I have a piece and will be trying it out on a new sled.
I've heard it will expand/contract, but I'm willing to bet not that much.
 
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tdukes

New User
Eddie
I have used aluminum bar on several jigs. I bought from online metals dot com. Learned real quick, its best to make a shallow dado to install the bar. It might look straight, but don't bank on it. Also, use cutting oil to thread the screws. Not sure what's in cutting oil but broke several taps using other oils. You break a tap, you can't remove it from the bar, it's hardened steel.
 

JohnW

New User
John
STEVE,
I've made sleds using the same QS oak like Claus shows. Even planed to use brass screws for snug adjustment, but never needed to use them in all the years of use.

I have several extra runners already made and sized for a standard table saw slot and you are welcome to come get a couple. My saw is a Grizzly 1023. When I was sizing the runners, I made several extras since the planer was already set to the correct size. PM me if you want a couple.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
The 3/4" X 3/8' bar stock sold by Rockler amounts to about $1.45 a foot. Pretty color of blue but pricey.

I've used both Rockler and Kreg adjustable miter bars (3/4" x 3/8") on a few jigs. I didn't think they were that expensive since they're already drilled/tapped and ready to install. Waxed QSO also works pretty well but its a little more fussy, but not overly sloppy in the miter slot. When adjusted, the sled should slide easily without any oomph behind it.
 
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TENdriver

New User
TENdriver
I’ve only used QSWO or QS Red Oak. Not a machinist or metal worker, so I’ve stuck to using wood.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
I've used the Rockler adjustable stips as well as some made by Incra - they are very easy to use. I've also used the UHMW plastic which can be had in strips precut to 3/4 x 3/8 or you can cut your own from a larger sheet of plastic either 3/8 or 3/4 thick.

Here's a 48" long piece of 3/8 x 3/4 for under $10

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ph11210/

They also carry it in 3/8 and 3/4 sheets if you want to cut your own to width. It works with standard woodworking tools like drill and countersink - cuts on a table saw or band saw.
 

dazart

New User
Steve
NCWW gets a discount for Klingspor? I may try those.

I've used the Rockler adjustable stips as well as some made by Incra - they are very easy to use. I've also used the UHMW plastic which can be had in strips precut to 3/4 x 3/8 or you can cut your own from a larger sheet of plastic either 3/8 or 3/4 thick.

Here's a 48" long piece of 3/8 x 3/4 for under $10

https://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/ph11210/

They also carry it in 3/8 and 3/4 sheets if you want to cut your own to width. It works with standard woodworking tools like drill and countersink - cuts on a table saw or band saw.
 

bowman

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
NCWW gets a discount for Klingspor? I may try those.

Here are the requirements for vendor discounts. https://www.ncwoodworker.net/forums/content.php?r=122. Your account does not show the DQ under your avatar, so you have not completed part of the requirements.

Once you have completed these, they vendors usually get an update from NCWW once a month on account changes for the DQ program, so you may not see an immediate change with the discount.
 

tdukes

New User
Eddie
I made a couple jigs with UHMW runners from cutting boards. Like using hardwood, need to make sure you over drill and counter sink the holes for the screws as it has a tendency to 'swell' where the screws are placed.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
On the aluminum, MSC sells 24" lengths of 3/8 X3/4 6063 for around ten bucks. I find that 6013 is a little too wide for my miter slots. You can buy 12' lengths of COLD ROLLED steel for around $3.00 a foot.
 
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