Metal building suppliers/installers in NC

Phillip Mitchell

Phillip
User
I’m in the beginning stages of estimating, pre-construction, etc for a 30x45x12’ shop on my property outside of Boone and, due to budget, am strongly considering a metal building and spraying the insides with closed cell spray foam combined with a mini split for humidity control and heat in the winter. This is the type of less commercial metal building that sits on a slab with posts tied to anchor bolts, has 2 1/2” square tube metal framing/trusses, and 29 ga steel siding/roofing with minimal overhangs.

I came across a company called Bull Buildings our of Mount Airy, that seems to source the parts and pieces and will customize the building to you liking - size, windows, doors, etc.

I had a 30 minute conversation with the owner today who answered all of my questions and quoted me a price of around $22k installed a building this size with a 10x12 roll up door, 3’ man door, and (10) 30x30 windows. No insulation, as their “factory” options would not even get close to passing residential building code. This seemed like a reasonable price (for my budget of around $50-60k all in) compared to the ~$60k from Morton Post Frame for a same size building that is wooden post frame but metal siding/roofing. Certainly a stronger type of building overall but not in my budget unfortunately.

I have worked in the past as a carpenter, timber framer and project manager, but not handled much permitting. Does anyone know if i need to be up to NC (2018?) residential code for wall and roof insulation if getting permitted and inspected for such a building? (R19 for walls and R38 for roof)

Building will be on our residential property but used strictly for my WW business.

Anybody have experience with Bull Buildings or other similar metal building companies in NC? Seems like there are so many of them that do the same thing.


Thanks!
 

Phillip Mitchell

Phillip
User
Mike,

No slab included in that. It would need 12x12 footings with steel along the long, load bearing walls and I was thinking / hoping for a 5” thick slab in the field.

It’s been at least a year since I’ve estimated and priced any concrete and I’m sure prices have gone up. I could handle the slab prep work of grading, forming and placing 4” of gravel. Currently budgeting around $8-10 a sq ft for concrete including finishing...so around ~$10-14k for the concrete work depending on details and the crew.

Are you in the building business?
 
Last edited:

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
I'm not certain about code but I stick-built my 24x36 shop in 2020 and insulation was not required. I had my CO and had been in my shop 3 months before I finally had it installed.
 
Last edited:

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
Mike,

No slab included in that. .so around ~$10-14k for the concrete work depending on details and the crew.

Are you in the building business?
No, I'm debating building, buying, renting something... Outgrew my single basement garage space.

About to retire from 30 years as a textile weave designer.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I was talking to Woods supply, here in Hillsborough. Big shortage of steel, big shortage of labor. Neighbor wants a building and was told at least 6 months. He had two suppliers and they won't even return his calls.

In Orange county, you can do 400 sq ft carport if two walls are open. There is some number, like 120 sq ft, for a garden shed without foundation. Everything else requires permit. Anything with electrical, plumbing, HVAC, requires permit. I believe, if you are zoned ag, then only electrical needs a permit. As I am R/A zoned, I can't skip out. I believe, in OC, insulation is only required if HVAC.

A decent steel building is great. Spray foam is expensive and of course, you need to sheet-rock over it. Way too dangerous of a fire hazard if exposed, I believe against code for an occupied space. Adds strength, low leaks, low bugs getting in, great vapor barrier. Boone may be different.

Your county engineer can give you the facts.
 

blazeman45

Steve
Senior User
Just ordered mine for the new shop and just completed one for our RV. If you want to PM me your number I’d be happy to fill you in on what I have learned over the last several months. Mine passed inspection with no insulation. Hope I can help!

Steve
index.php
 

Attachments

  • D3D1EE6B-F3CA-4110-B138-A6FB86E9361B.jpeg
    D3D1EE6B-F3CA-4110-B138-A6FB86E9361B.jpeg
    2.6 MB · Views: 448
  • 99521ECD-F411-47E0-AAA0-8AFE8EB363E5.jpeg
    99521ECD-F411-47E0-AAA0-8AFE8EB363E5.jpeg
    2.8 MB · Views: 78

bowman

Board of Directors, Webmaster
Neal
Staff member
Corporate Member
I ordered mine through Carport Central out of Mt Airy in 2016. 22x35, sits on concrete slab, not insulated. It is permitted, and I am inside city limits. I have 2 9' rollup doors, 2 3' man doors, and 1 window. The slab is fiberglass reinforced. I did upgrade the building to withstand higher wind & snow loads over the standard package.
 

Craptastic

Matt
Corporate Member
Building will be on our residential property but used strictly for my WW business.
Not sure about NC codes but every state I have ever done construction work in (and that is a few) require buildings if used as a place of business, even if located on residential property, to be fully code compliant for a business construction use. It would highly surprise me if you could get away without meeting the insulation requirements. What you describe is not a shed or private workshop.

But NC does allow you to act as your own GC so if you also contract with an insulation contractor to provide the proper coverage, and also have a contractor(s) to do wall finishes and electrical and etc you could be all good. Check with your county/municipality zoning authority to make sure what you can and can not do.
 

AllanD

Allan
Corporate Member
We are about to finish up on a 32x48 metal building here on our farm. Tubular not red iron. I talked to several metal companies, it seems there is a concentration of them around Mt. Airy. I did closed cell spray foam and very pleased. We haven't gotten final inspections on electrical so don't have power yet but you can already tell how efficient it is. For a metal building with so many holes and leaks it is the only way to go I feel.
Now for personal opinion that some may disagree with: From what I understood from talking to the metal building people is that all tubular metal buildings use metal roofs with exposed fasteners. I have a pole barn with such a roof. In my opinion exposed fastener roofs are insane for habitable buildings (ok for sheds maybe). The exposed fastener roofs are necessary to give rigidity to the building. I found one metal building company willing to sell me a building without a roof. I wanted a snap-lock style hidden fastener roof. That requires an underlayment of plywood or OSB to give the rigidity to sheering etc. So I had a local roofer apply to sheathing and metal roof I wanted.
I also bought the building without windows or doors since they only furnished the cheapest aluminum single pane windows and metal doors without any glass. I ordered double pane windows and half glass doors from Lowes. One end has a double door even.
I am in Union county so not near Boone but you are welcome to come check mine out if interested.
 

cliff56

cliff
Corporate Member
Did a 25x50 x 12 last summer southeastern part of state live on family farm no permit required, insulation is worth the money. No 9ne need know that will be used for business , just a home shop for your own use. Steel is high , I shopped around for price and quality read reviews.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
Metal building companies are all around.
Varco-Pruden company has an online software you can use that will draw your building and provide a cost estimate somwwhere on their site. Good starting point.
Normally, figure the cost of the building roughly 12-16 bucks a ft. Erection- is a variable could cost nothing if you are doing with a friend, to paying upward to 15-30 /ft depending where you are in the world. Est- Site prep, base and rebar and misc @ 10 bucks a ft. Concrete is roughly the same cost as the building 12-16 bucks a ft. Or 45.00/sq.ft. ROM + erection costs.. Those were last year's prices.
If you go with Pre-engineered go with straight columns rather than tapered, way easier to frame in. Also, pay to have the roof insulation and recommend also the walls included. Way Easier.

Some trivia - Most companies buy their components from MBCI company. So girts, purlins sometimes the panels and misc hardware comes from there. The Pre-Engineered building company usually makes only the frame components. Used to do a bunch of these 20 years ago, back then it was 10-16/sqft..... now who knows.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Did a 25x50 x 12 last summer southeastern part of state live on family farm no permit required, insulation is worth the money. No 9ne need know that will be used for business , just a home shop for your own use. Steel is high , I shopped around for price and quality read reviews.
Farm is totally different! Totally. Only electrical permit required.

Your insurance company may need to know, or if you have a loss, they may not cover it. If customers come to the shop, might consider liability insurance.

Everyone is guessing or not in the OP's county. He needs facts, those come from the county.

Anything we know about buildings last year no longer applies. Major logistics, supply and labor issues. They may vary locally.
 

Phillip Mitchell

Phillip
User
Thanks for all the replies. I’ll respond more in full at a later date when I have more time.

I will call the county building dept and inquire about insulation requirements.

I will be using this for my one person business but it will be on our personal property and built with personal finances and could easily be mixed use with personal needs.
 

redknife

Chris
Corporate Member
In our county, inspector told me that as soon as I were to install hvac of any kind it becomes a conditioned space thereby triggering all of the energy codes.
 

teesquare

T
Senior User
Allow me to give you an alternate format that will yield what you want in terms of better insulation, greater wind and snow load numbers - and speed of construction....which - in total means your total cost of ownership is lower and the cost of construction - for you should be similar maybe cheaper. As a timber framer, you may or may not be familiar with SIP panel construction.
I dried in a 1-1/2 story, 12-12 pitch roofed, house in 5-1/2 days.
Taditional wood frame carpenters can learn SIP building in literally one day of training. The only specialized tools needs are a Prazi beam saw ( which you may already have with your timber-frame experience...) and a foam-scoop. The load dynamics are simple and easy to figure.
If I can be of any help - should you want to consider this, just e-mail me @ toomanywords101@yahoo.com I am in Brevard, and would be happy to show you this construction method.
 

Phillip Mitchell

Phillip
User
Thanks for the comment. I’m very familiar with SIPs and spent many a day setting panels with a crane on top of a frame.

I didn’t even consider them due to cost. In my experience and from the pricing I’ve seen in years past (can’t imagine what it would be now) I can’t imagine even doing a roof like what I’m talking about for less than 15-20k. It depends on thickness / R values, of course. Building high performance / passive house level stuff in the past, we would often use roof panels that were 13” thick x 24’ long x 8’ wide. I know they make them thinner and smaller than that.

Maybe you know something that I don’t, but with my small budget (of hopefully around $60k for the whole build) I just don’t see SIPs being in the budget. I can get a 30x45x12 metal building uninsulated and installed for around $22k. I would then need to add in closed cell spray foam costs (could easily be 10-12k to meet code in walls and roof) but that still seems miles ahead price wise compared to SIP walls and roof panels. Maybe you know something I don’t?

Thanks again for the comment.
 

teesquare

T
Senior User
Typically - the panels that are used in timberfaming are single sided OSB, and exposed foam on the other. ( Nail base panels ). Those are NOT SIPs - tho they are often confused with.....
And - I don't know what you are paying for structural SIPS panels. That may make a big difference. .....
 

Phillip Mitchell

Phillip
User
I have never used or seen single sided panels.
Always skinned in both sides with OSB and typically 12 1/4” of foam inside for roof panels.

There were a couple of different SIP suppliers we used regularly when I was timber framing. ACME Panel out of Radford, VA was the one that I remember at this point. Just checked their website for basic pricing. Seems like sq ft pricing for structural SIPs are between $10.50-13.50 depending on thickness/R value. I’m sure package pricing would bring those numbers down a bit but not significantly.

I just don’t see SIPs pricing being anywhere close to the cost of a metal building that is installed and already has (crappy) windows, doors and metal siding and roofing that’s ready for insulation and interior work.
 

teesquare

T
Senior User
Sounds pretty high for SIPs....there are several manufacturers in this region. And sounds like you are comfortable with metal, and costs. I understand - and look forward to seeing picture od your shop. Sounds like a nice project.
T
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top