Marquetry Rose

[nelsone]

Don't know what I'm going to do with this yet, but here is my latest piece. I will use is as an inlay for something.

 

[WoodWrangler]

Very nice there man! Dang, you are getting good! Wait ... you already were!

 

[woodArtz]

Very nice Ed! Can't wait to see what that goes into.

 

[McRabbet]

Beautiful piece, Ed, especially the hot sand shading! A few questions, assuming you are using double bevel cutting: What species of wood and thicknesses are you using? What scrollsaw and blades? Bevel angle?

Sorry for all the questions, but I just took a class in Columbia SC with Purple Thumb and Merrill77 taught by David J. Marks on Marquetry and I'm eager to hear about your method. Can you recommend any literature on the topic? Thanks.

 

[GregSmith]

Beautiful piece, Ed, especially the hot sand shading! A few questions, assuming you are using double bevel cutting: What species of wood and thicknesses are you using? What scrollsaw and blades? Bevel angle?

+1

Nice work Ed :icon_thum

 

[nelsone]

Thanks everyone!

Rob, I used 1/42 veneer and cut it with a knife using the window method. I havent had much luck trying to scroll the veneer. Maybe if I stack cut it I could make it work. I did a tulip in 1/4" stock a few years ago and bevel cut that on the scroll saw. As for species, the flower is holly and maple, I'm not sure what the stem and leaves are, and the background is sapele. I bought a veneer pack off ebay that had a pretty good variety and mostly go by color.

 

[James Davis]

Ed, That thing looks like you could pick it up and sniff. The depth that you got into it is amazing. Good job.:icon_thum

James

 

[cskipper]

That is STUNNING!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hot sand shading? Seems like I've heard of it but never tried it. Great job!:icon_thum

 

[Matt Furjanic]

Darn good Ed! I've done a little of this and I know how painstaking it is to get those lines that tight. Your joints are perfect! And, I like your choice of woods! Nice shading too! Museum quality!

Matt...

 

[PeteM]

That's a keeper!! :thumbs_up

Whatever wood you used for the stem and leaves was a great choice.
The colors and shading are right on.

pete

 

[bwat]

Nice work. This must take an incredible amount of time and patience. How many hours in this project?

 

[Larry Rose]

Ed, it doesn't need to be used on any thing just put a frame around it and hang it up. Great job:eusa_clap

 

[Trent Mason]

Wow! That is beautiful! :thumbs_up:thumbs_up

 

[JackLeg]

Ed, it doesn't need to be used on any thing just put a frame around it and hang it up. Great job:eusa_clap

That's exactly what I was thinking, Larry. Frame and hang that thing! :icon_thum If I'd done that I'd hang it in the most prominent place in our house! (No danger of that happening! LOL!)

Beautiful work, Ed. :eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap:eusa_clap

 

[CarvedTones]

Ed - Wow - outstanding!

Rob - I also tried the scroll saw with "less than positive" results. As soon as you get half way around, the piece you are cutting out starts fluttering. I have not gotten nearly as good as Ed, but getting a smaller Xacto that I can hold like a pencil helped me improve.

 

[nelsone]

Thanks everyone!

Bill, I don't really have too much time in the piece. I'd guess 2~3 hours, but I wasn't keeping track.

 

[McRabbet]

David Marks uses 3/32" material that he resaws from heavier stock and then runs through a drum sander to smooth all the pieces and to get them to final thickness. He teached the double bevel method where the inset piece is placed behind the field piece, taped in place and then sawn with #3 blades (he uses Olsen 33 TPI) at a 6 degree angle. The field piece is any shape you want to insert into your finished piece (oval, circle, rectangle) which is template cut into the finish piece and then hogged out to just under 3/32" with a router. He recommends the Whiteside Template Routing kit (about $32) for the latter step. He also taught us the free-form method where his subject piece goes outside the template area and is embedded directly into the finish piece (vertical knife cuts around the inlay to define the imbed area and then hand routed with a 1/16" bit to depth).

Again, mucho kudos for your work -- I presume the whole finish piece (your Sapele backbround) is also veneer.

 

[McRabbet]

Ed - Wow - outstanding!

Rob - I also tried the scroll saw with "less than positive" results. As soon as you get half way around, the piece you are cutting out starts fluttering. I have not gotten nearly as good as Ed, but getting a smaller Xacto that I can hold like a pencil helped me improve.

Andy - David avoids that problem by rough cutting a window smaller that the inlay piece in the field piece with the pattern taped on it before he tapes it to the inlay stock. That way, one can also see the grain in the inlay piece to orient it before taping. Speed control of the scrollsaw through the tight corners and a tight blade insert seemed to be keys to avoid the fluttering.

 

[MikeH]

Great Job Ed!!!! That is awesome. :icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum:icon_thum

 

[nelsone]

David Marks uses 3/32" material that he resaws from heavier stock and then runs through a drum sander to smooth all the pieces and to get them to final thickness. He teached the double bevel method where the inset piece is placed behind the field piece, taped in place and then sawn with #3 blades (he uses Olsen 33 TPI) at a 6 degree angle. The field piece is any shape you want to insert into your finished piece (oval, circle, rectangle) which is template cut into the finish piece and then hogged out to just under 3/32" with a router. He recommends the Whiteside Template Routing kit (about $32) for the latter step. He also taught us the free-form method where his subject piece goes outside the template area and is embedded directly into the finish piece (vertical knife cuts around the inlay to define the imbed area and then hand routed with a 1/16" bit to depth).

Again, mucho kudos for your work -- I presume the whole finish piece (your Sapele backbround) is also veneer.

Great info Rob! Thanks.

The thicker veneer would definitely reduce the flutter issue. I used the same methods in the compass rose tray I made. I used a template to rout the ouline of the field, then reduced the field, and inset the inlay. My challenge on the tray came when I wanted to add stringing around the inlay, but I think I have that issue figured out. I am debating on making this an oval field so I'll have to see if it works.

Yes the field is also veneer. I backed the whole piece with another piece of veneer for the strength until I inset it.