marking tools

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I have a lot. Like my other threads, trying to step up. Looking for experience and preferences.
Left to right:
Carbide scribe. For metalwork, my go-to. Not so good for wood but I tend to grab it. Point never breaks in my pocket though.
Starrett edge guide. Again, for metal work. Wobbles and follows the grain too much for wood. I should get them away from my wood side of the shop.
Pencil. Easier for my eyes. I keep a wall mount sharpener handy. Just have to remember which side or center you are working to. Out of #6 which is my preferred.
BIC pencil. More even, but not as sharp a line as a good old #2. Not sure I am converted.
Old Stanley. Point on one end, wheel on the other. I might like this if it was not about as dull as a brick. Wheel leaves a dent, not a scribe. Point is worse than the wood ones. No idea how to sharpen it.
Veritas marking knife. Don't know. Just not working for me.
X-Acto with 1/2 inch 45 degree. Works better than the Veritas, but too big to get into dovetails.
"Normal" X-acto. Actually pretty good. Handy for other things too.
Smaller 45 degree X-Acto. Even better. May be the right tool.
Traditional end scribe. Has an X-acto knife in it. Just seems clumsy and again, I can't seem to get a smooth strait line.
Box knife. Always there, so I use it. Only good for "outside" lines.
Traditional point gauge. Always ragged and not strait. Guess good enough for timber framing.

So, I then to use a ruler and try-square with a pencil. Changing the lens from the 2X to 3X in my visor so maybe I can see the X-acto line easier. Maybe a chalk bag to highlight the thinner line?
 

Robert LaPlaca

Robert
Senior User
For marking gauges, I really like the Glen-Drake marking gauges, expensive but worth it. I have two of the Veritas wheel marking gauges, they are ok, but I much prefer the Glen-Drakes.

I prefer to cut pins first for dovetails, for marking out dovetails I use a simple X-acto #11, it works for me. I bought a fancy marking knife, that just doesn’t feel right in my hand at all.

For general line scribing I have a Veritas marking knife that I use.
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have two Veritas wheel marking gauges, and will be adding a TiteMark in the near future. To sharpen the wheel, you work the flat side on a sharpening stone. To sharpen a pin gauge, use a slip stone, or something similar, and follow the shape of the pin's point.

Have two different shop pencils: One is a Pentel Graphgear 1000 .5mm, and the other is a 2mm Staedler lead holder. I use the Pentel to darken my knife lines, and the lead holder for general marking.

My marking knife is a Narex dual bevel with the thin blade. You may be the first person that I've encountered that doesn't like the Veritas.

My scribes are a cheap Stanley scratch awl, and a Crown bird cage awl. I practically never use the Stanley, and the Crown is used primarily for marking drilling locations
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
So, dropped into Klingspor. They had a Veritas double wheel. $60 or so. It was single bevel. Their package suggests the single prevents it from following the grain.
They also had a Shop Fox. Single, but again single bevel. Smaller head though. With the single bevel, you can just rub on a flat stone. I started thinking how much work it would be to grind my Stanley into a single. Shure would be cheaper than a Glen-Drake ( expensive is unjustified, really really expensive is more like it :) )

I got out with just a new push block. Then McGregors for a French Dip and ale. It was nice outside.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I succeeded in sharpening the wheel on my old Stanley. Still double bevel, but testing, it works far better than it did. Going to give it a bit.
Also did a quick dress of my rip and keyhole saws. Modified my Eclipse setting tool so it can hit a finer tooth blade. My files ( I think my Grandfathers) are a bit worn.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Was looking to see what else was available. Quite surprised about the number of really bad reviews some reasonably respectable brands get. But some are that the user does not understand the tool. Seems many "wheel" gauges are not designed to spin like my old Stanley. But tossing those, and the folks who can't read the scribes, still many issues with them not holding position, bad blades, breaking etc.
Seems the Veritas and WoodRiver get good reviews. Not surprised. But for something as simple as this, surprised the negatives from iGauge and the like. Surprised how small the head of these tools are. If I were designing them, it would be longer.

As many of the wheel gauges don't spin, they just present a very low angle single bevel knife, I bet I can modify an X-Acto blade in my old wood gauge and make it useable. I bet I can do a little careful grinder work to make the wheel on the Stanley asymmetrical, if not single bevel and make it track better. You can learn a lot by market research.

I wish I had not let go of my old lead holders and pointing tool. I think a #6 or #8 lead would make a good tool if mounted in a gauge.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
X-acto makes a small saw blade that fits in the standard handle.
if you cut tails first but don’t remove the waste, set up like you normally would for transfering the marks to the pins, but use the x-acto saw blade in the tail cuts to transfer the marks it makes a mark that your dovetail saw can actually start in. Much better than a marking knife.
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
Rob, I missed that double ended job. Me likie

Mike, I have one of those. I was comparing it today to my other saws. Not a great saw but did not think of using it as you suggest. I'll give it a try
 

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top