Making Real Japanning

[Jak3]

I think that you're okay safety wise with your plan. It'll be interesting to see the baked on japanning.

Okay awesome. Sorry if I got a little defensive you had me worried that I might not should put any japanning on it at all!

 

[Jeff]

Okay awesome. Sorry if I got a little defensive you had me worried that I might not should put any japanning on it at all!

You had already said that the japanned parts would not be in contact with the apples or juice.

 

[Oka]

If you are planning on baking it, look in Craig's and get an old stove/oven for free. Then you can use it in the back yard without stinking up something you cook in. Also, now you have the oven, you can also use it to cook on powder coating

 

[Jak3]

This is yesterday after baking all the way up to 425. Finish is hard and the color looks good. Can't be scratched by fingernail. Not pure black a little browness to it. Even though it isn't super smooth, I'm really happy with it! This finish is so old world and comes from a time when there was no stainless or proper paint. I really like it. I could have picked a less awkward practice piece though!

The Japanning is a consistency like honey and it can be difficult to apply it smoothly. I could have done more to make it smoother, but I assumed the heat of the oven would smooth it out for me. I have since sanded it and removed any globs or bad spots and I have applied a second coat. It will begin baking today.
This time I used the same silicone brush and applied the coat, but afterward I used the ends of the brush like an artist would to "Stipple" the surface and make it a little bit more even and consistent.

 

[JohnnyR]

I'd be cautious about using this on the gears if there is buildup.

 

[Jak3]

I'd be cautious about using this on the gears if there is buildup.

If I can actually get the gears apart (they’re wedged on the shaft that they’re on.) I’ll be sure to not let any get on the teeth or any mating surfaces.

 

[nn4jw]

Just a comparison and curiosity question about the process.

I've experimented with that Japanning mixture while restoring an old user plane. It worked quite well. That said, I didn't bake the finish. There's nothing in the mixture that won't evapoprate and air cure in a few days. What's the purpose of baking it? The only thing I can think of is possibly melting the asphaltum for a smoother finish.

 

[Jak3]

Just a comparison and curiosity question about the process.

I've experimented with that Japanning mixture while restoring an old user plane. It worked quite well. That said, I didn't bake the finish. There's nothing in the mixture that won't evapoprate and air cure in a few days. What's the purpose of baking it? The only thing I can think of is possibly melting the asphaltum for a smoother finish.

I am following Hand tool rescues instructions and he claims it takes 90 days to cure cold. I also think it gets smoother and smoother as you bake it. I would think baking it makes it cure faster and cure all the way through and be really hard and durable.

I’m just experimenting for fun because I enjoy this and I have a lot of time. The japanned wrench is in the oven now with its second coat applied. It has one more heat to go through before I take it out and examine it.

 

[nn4jw]

It didn't take mine 90 days to cure, but I also don't think I made it as thick and honey-like. It's been way more than 90 days since I looked at it so I cannot really remember whether it had any noticeable give or not to a fingernail. I have an old counter top oven I was going to try on the next Japanning project but haven't gotten around to restoring any other old planes. Got 'em, just haven't done 'em :-(

Like I said, I was just curious and following along your progress. Interesting project.

 

[Jak3]

It didn't take mine 90 days to cure, but I also don't think I made it as thick and honey-like. It's been way more than 90 days since I looked at it so I cannot really remember whether it had any noticeable give or not to a fingernail. I have an old counter top oven I was going to try on the next Japanning project but haven't gotten around to restoring any other old planes. Got 'em, just haven't done 'em :-(

Like I said, I was just curious and following along your progress. Interesting project.

Interesting maybe yours was just thinner so it cured faster. Mine is like molasses. I’m just a noob with this stuff. In the future though I would like to apply it on other restoration projects.

 

[nn4jw]

I mixed mine about the consistency of unthinned latex paint. It was my first Japanning project too so we're all learning here.

 

[Jeff]

Information for this discussion:

1. the melting point of asphalt is about 200 Fahrenheit

2. the boiling point of linseed oil is >316 Centigrade, 601 Fahrenheit

3. the boiling point of turpentine is 310 Fahrenheit

I don't think that the linseed oil will evaporate in a few days at room temperature or baking in the oven. It seems more complicated stuff is going on.

 

[Jak3]

So here is how the second coat turned out. I got it a little bit more even and smooth. I used the brush to "stipple" on the japanning or dab it on. It left some spots in the finish but with a third coat it would look good.
This testing was really just a proof of concept for me and I think it would turn out much better on a more conventional object like a plane or other flat piece of metal. I really like how it turned out and this process has shown me that I can now make my own japanning. I don't currently have any other restorations to use it on at the moment, other than the apple cider press, but the next old thing I do find and fix up, I'll be re-finishing it with japanning if possible.

I understand that this finish was in use way before paint and won't ever be just like paint, but I still want to get more experience with it and make it look as smooth and even as possible. That being said why not just use some Rustoleum? I just have an appreciation for old fashioned things and like objects that I make to be genuine through and through.

 

[LocoWoodWork]

I understand that this finish was in use way before paint and won't ever be just like paint, but I still want to get more experience with it and make it look as smooth and even as possible. That being said why not just use some Rustoleum? I just have an appreciation for old fashioned things and like objects that I make to be genuine through and through.

I think using this japaning for an old piece is much better than slapping on rustoleum, and if I were a betting man I'd say Jpng is more durable.

 

[Pop Golden]

I may have japanning all wrong. From past research years ago japanning was an ancient decorative technique from the far east. It consisted of applying layers of lacquer (red was the favorite color) and then applying lying a thin layer of japanning over the lacquer. When baked and dry a design was scratched through the japanning exposing the lacquer underneath. What resulted was known as japanning, I don't know if a clear coating was applied on top of this, but the technique was used on plates and other food contact items. However you never know. The Romans ate from lead plates. PS: It killed a few.

Pop