Making Real Japanning

Jak3

New User
Jacob
I've just mixed up some japanning the other day according to Hand Tool Rescue's recipe and ratios in his youtube video on Japanning. Ingredients are powdered asphaltum, turpentine, and boiled linseed oil. (50% turpentine, 30% asphaltum, 20% BLO) Going to start testing in the next day or two. Had to move an old oven into the shop for the task. It's important also to make the oven sit level. I mixed the ingredients but found it was too thin so I added some more asphaltum to it to thicken it. Hand Tool Rescue says it the consistency needs to be like honey. He says to wait 24 hours after mixing or adding anything for it to settle. Can't wait to test it out. Hopefully the finish will be used on the restoration of a 150 year old apple cider press but I will test it on a few other things first.

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Going to try it out on this old wrench since I had nothing else metal to try it on. The only challenge with this is how to put the part in the oven and how to prop it up so no uncured finish is touching anything. Can't really hang it up by wire in the oven since it's a weird shape. I can't really mask it off so any over zealous globs of finish will have to be removed after.
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
Interested in seeing how this pans out. As for holding the wrench, you could take a wire hanger and make stands that the jaws can rest on. The top portion of the stand would go inside the jaws. Not sure what temp japanning cures at, but I'd remove any coating from the hanger first
 

Jak3

New User
Jacob
Interested in seeing how this pans out. As for holding the wrench, you could take a wire hanger and make stands that the jaws can rest on. The top portion of the stand would go inside the jaws. Not sure what temp japanning cures at, but I'd remove any coating from the hanger first

Okay that is a good idea. Could I use some thick copper wire to prop it up from the inside of the wrench jaws? Highest we will be going is 400-425F.
 

Oka

Casey
Corporate Member
I did some a a couple of years back I think that was the mix I used., the Boiled linseed oil might have been a touch less like 15% anyway, I heated it slowly until 425deg. It worked fine.

I think I used rebar chairs (little wire stand offs to hold rebar off the ground, anything should work. Good luck
 

marinosr

Richard
Corporate Member
Oh this is cool! I'm looking forward to the results. I had assumed the japanning was just an enamel paint... Learned something new!
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I saw your original thread with the pictures of the restored cider press WIP. Which parts will you treating with your Jappaning?

Why did you choose Jappaning instead of a simple enamel spray like Rust-Oleum primer and paint?
 

Jak3

New User
Jacob
I saw your original thread with the pictures of the restored cider press WIP. Which parts will you treating with your Jappaning?

Why did you choose Jappaning instead of a simple enamel spray like Rust-Oleum primer and paint?
There are some parts of the press that will not allow any finish on them because they will come into direct contact with apple juice or mash. We want these parts to be food safe.
But as for the protective casing around the grinder portion of the press, the outside needs to have some kind of finish to protect it. I would like also to apply finish to the gears of the press however they are wedged together with keyed slots so I’m at a loss as how to get those apart.
I chose the japanning because I thought it was cool. I guess I have a knack for doing things the hard way and not the simple way! Ive just checked the japanning mix. It’s thick now like honey. I’m going to try and apply a first coat today.
 

Jak3

New User
Jacob
Japanning is interesting and your choice for an "authentic" finish for the press.

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I am well aware it’s not a food safe finish. By no means will any parts that come into direct contact with apple juice or mash have a Japan finish. For a few of the restored castings I chose bright red enamel paint. I just thought japanning would be cool on some of the parts.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
I am well aware it’s not a food safe finish. By no means will any parts that come into direct contact with apple juice or mash have a Japan finish. For a few of the restored castings I chose bright red enamel paint. I just thought japanning would be cool on some of the parts.

I didn't say that and you already knew it!
 

mdbuntyn

Matt
Staff member
Corporate Member
One advantage that we have over most forums is that we tend to remain civil towards one another. I worry that this exchange may head in the opposite direction
 

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
For baking it, could you put it on a cookie sheet and hold it up with inverted thumb tacks?
 

Jak3

New User
Jacob
I didn't say that and you already knew it!

Maybe I was a bit naive with this finish. If I intend to use the press and drink juice from it, do you think I should not put any japanning on it part of it at all? I really want to restore the piece and use it and have my family and me safely enjoy the apple cider.
 

Jak3

New User
Jacob
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Here's the setup for the wrench. I used a titebond silicone glue brush because I heard the japanning won't stick to the silicone. The part is going to sit in the oven for an hour or two before I start the first heat. I hope it turns out well! I really want that smooth dark japanning look. Can't wait!
 

Jak3

New User
Jacob
For baking it, could you put it on a cookie sheet and hold it up with inverted thumb tacks?

I probably could but for right now I've rigged some copper wire to hold the workpiece by the two places that no finish will be applied.
 

Jeff

New User
Jeff
Maybe I was a bit naive with this finish. If I intend to use the press and drink juice from it, do you think I should not put any japanning on it part of it at all? I really want to restore the piece and use it and have my family and me safely enjoy the apple cider.

I think that you're okay safety wise with your plan. It'll be interesting to see the baked on japanning.
 

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