making Drawers ?

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Jon

New User
Jon Todd
I have never done drawers and I would like to know where to start and what slides to use.

They are for my shop. the opening is 24 deep by 27 wide. So what do you guys say I should do.

Drawers will go in here.

Miter_saw_station_004.jpg





Here it is so far.



Miter_saw_station_002.jpg
 
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Dutchman

New User
Buddy
I let some of the others give you thier building tips, but I would make sure you use full extension side guides. They will give you the best support for a heavy drawer and allow you to easily get to your stuff. Not cheap, but worth it for shop drawers.
 

DaveO

New User
DaveO
I have used these in the past from Woodcraft - Accuride 3732 full extension 100# cap. http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?FamilyID=3984
The 24" length is only $17.50 a pair, and it looks like they may have a special price right now.
I have also used the BB slides available from Lowes. They're not as nice as the Accurides, but they do what they are supposed to do.
Drawers are easy, they're just boxes. Pick your slides a head of time, allow for the required slide clearance plus a little (you can adjust or shim for too much space, I ain't found a decent "space-stretcher" yet).
Dave:)
 

Jay Brewer

New User
Jay
Hi Jon Todd, the miter station is looking very nice. I always build my drawers with pocket screws and glue. Put your holes on the front and back peices, this makes a clean side with no nails or screws showing. Its fast and dosent occupy alot of clamps. I use 1/4" ply for the bottoms on reg. drawers, and 1/2" on drawer that will see alot of use/weight. The bottoms sit in a 3/8" deep dado, 1/2" up from the edge.

Definatly spring for the full extension, once you use them you want go back to the epoxy slides. I buy in bulk, so if you need some, I might be able to save you some money.
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
Jon,
Be sure to figure out how much your face frame is going to shrink your opening and how much of a filler strip you'll need to have on the sides of the cabinet to hang the cabinet part of the slide on.

Before ordering from CSH call them and check on opened/clearance slides. I was there this past summer while visiting my wife's family and they had a lot of cases of 20" full extension, soft close slides for $60. Only problem there were no screws with them. Not much of a problem but they were too heavy to check in as baggage so I passed on the deal. Kicking myself ever since:roll:.
 

DavidF

New User
David
Nobody has talked about contruction of the drawer much, but with shop drawers you need to make sure the front isn't going to pull off over time if the load is heavy. Glued and rabbeted frames are fine for light drawers, but you might want to take a look at attaching the corners with something more substantial than pocket screws or brads:lol: Dovetails obviously spring to mind, but there are some nice locking joints that can be made easiliy with a router.
 

Ray Martin

New User
Ray
David,

Good point on the drawer front. The locking rabbet is a fairly strong joint. And if you don't have the router bit, you can make them on the table saw.


Ray
 

Ray Martin

New User
Ray
Jon,

Did you get a set of plans for the miter station... or is this of your own design? A miter saw station is a near term (I hope) project for me.

Ray
 

John Reeves

New User
John Reeves
I also have found CSH to be the least expensive place. Good service.

BUT, for my workbench I did not use slides. I made the drawer bottom wide enough so it has 3/16 on each side. I fastened the front, back and sides on top of the bottom. I glued and screwed hardwood 1x1 pieces to the side of the cabinet to sandwich the drawer bottom. Keeping close tolerances will make the drawer slide nicely. I lubricated with spray silicone. My bottom is 3/4 pine ply. Dang sturdy, cheap and serviceable.

I have a pic of my work bench in my album.

Good luck.
 

Jon

New User
Jon Todd
Hello Everyone.

I went to See Jay Brewer today and got some slides from him. They were plenty cheap and I got to see Jay's shop and met Jay and hang out a little while.

I designed the Miter station myself and made it so i can in the near future get a Dewalt miter saw and change it for that pretty easy. I for now will put 5 drawers in one side. ANd see how it goes from there.

Thanks for everyones help.
 

JimmyC

New User
Jimmy
Marcus,

I have an old Makita CMS, a Delta CMS, and a Dewalt SCMS, and they all have different height bases. Some brands might be the same as others, but not the ones I have,

Jimmy:)
 

CaptainCowie

New User
Marcus
Most are different. I made this where it will be really easy for me to change it for another saw.

May I ask how you have it set up for an easy change? The only thing I could think of was some sort of spacer that lifts the saw up and then you could swap to a smaller or larger spacer if you need to change saws.
 
M

McRabbet

I've seen plans for one somewhere that used four long 3/8" carriage bolts with jam nuts and washers to allow a 3/4" plywood or MDF platform for the saw to be adjusted up and down. Just put clearance holes through the recessed top and put the bolts down through the adjustable shelf with a washer and jam nut to keep the shelf at a constant height. A nut and washer above and below the recessed top gives you the final height adjustment. Clear enough?
 
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