'Make do' homemade kiln questions

[Truefire]

Hey fellows in the not too distant future i will be attempting to dry some rough cut lumber from a red oak as well as a pecan tree. I want to know the best method and means to make a reasonably cheaper method in which to dry this lumber.

I do have a 7-8'x 17' portion of a concrete slab that I am thinking about covering with top (shelter) and have thought about placing such underneath there once finished. Any suggestions. This slab is partially shaded until about 1030 in the morning and should not get direct sunlight should i cover it with a shelter top.

how should i stack it and such. thanks, a certain distance apart between the boards and how about the strapping in order to retain the flatness?

Chris

 

[DaveO]

For air drying this is probably the best example of how you should stack and sticker a pile of boards -

I don't think that you will need a roof over head if you cover the pile like above. The key is to have good air flow all around the stack.
Your best bet would be to air dry to around 12% MC and then have someone finish it in a kiln to bring it down to a level 6-8% MC for interior furniture work.
Dave

 

[Travis Porter]

For air drying this is probably the best example of how you should stack and sticker a pile of boards -

I don't think that you will need a roof over head if you cover the pile like above. The key is to have good air flow all around the stack.
Your best bet would be to air dry to around 12% MC and then have someone finish it in a kiln to bring it down to a level 6-8% MC for interior furniture work.
Dave

Ditto what he said. Note the straps for holding the stack flat. Be sure to seal the ends and leave say a 1/2" between each board.

 

[Mark Anderson]

also note that the straps go around the dunage (the 4x4 on top and botom of the stack) if you just go around the lumber the straps will losten quickly as the lumber shrinks. even in the position shown the straps will losten up so periodical tightening should be done.

also note that the metal on toop of the pile dose not sit right on the lumber being dried, this keeps any condesation on the metal from getting to the stack, and provides circulation to the top face of the stack.

the pile is cept way off the ground (or in your case the slab) again this keeps ground moisture away and provides circulation.

stickers should be of lumber drir than the wood being dried. if not they will leave a mark on the lumber. it will plane out eazy, but if left in the rough cut stage they will show.

as shown it is the perfect example of how to air dry lumber to get it ready for finishing in the kiln.

 

[Tom Dunn]

Theres a series of books called "Fine Woodworking On...(insert subject here), including one on drying wood. Collection of articles on the subject from the magazine. Good info.
I'm not sure if the book is easily available still, but if not, I can see if mine is still around. If so, you're welcome to borrow it.....