Looking to see what a Delta 34-445 table saw is worth

Frank Schaffer

New User
Frank
I've been tasked with selling my father's (who passed away) woodworking equipment and I have no idea what some of this equipment is worth. One item in particular is a Delta 34-445 with a 30" unifence. My father built a extension (with storage below) table for the saw (photo attached).
Delta table saw.jpg
Any guidance would be appreciated.

Frank
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
The Uni fence is probably worth more than the saw. While the "custom cabinet and outfeed" are nice, are they what a potential buyer is looking for? I have a little older version of this saw in my shop, plus one in storage. The one in storage used to be hauled to job sites for built in cabinetry.
 

J_Graham

Graham
Corporate Member
I paid $150 for the same set up (with a smaller homeade extension) about a year ago. Ended up replacing the motor, so maybe I overpaid for that particular one. But I think in good condition that would be a good deal.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
I have had both of mine for some time. One in shop was rescued from going into dumpster, around 1992. Spent over $400 on parts to bring it back to new condition. This didn't include a replacement motor which I had. Built my own Biesie clone fence for it. Paid $175 in 1997, for second. If I had to guess a price that I would be willing to pay, it would be in the $275-$350 range. You can always price it high, and then come down if necessary.
 

Charles Lent

Charley
Corporate Member
The Unifence by itself is worth about $200. I bought and refurbed a 34-444 saw (a year older version) for my son that had the old Jet Lock Fence on it. The saw itself was in bad condition and with no motor, and I paid $150 for it, found a used motor from a similar model saw for $50 that needed work, and a miter gauge and better condition Jet Lock Fence for $25.

Your saw is all there and in great condition with a more valuable fence. I would have jumped at the opportunity to buy it for $450 or $500 with that fence on it. Many people don't like the Unifence, but when you start asking questions about why, they usually admit that they have never tried it. The Unifence extrusion can be swapped to the other side of the main casting to use on the other side of the blade very easily. It can also be laid down for a "Low Fence", again, on either side of the saw blade. Peachtree Woodworking sells square Unifence extrusions with T slots to make it easier to attach accessories top and side. There is an HDPE wear strip along the rub point of this fence extrusion to make wood slide along the fence easier, and both the original and this fence extrusion can be slid back and forward and locked in any position when a short fence or just a longer "starting fence is desired for ripping long stock. I bought the Uni-T-Fence from Peachtree, but also kept the original fence extrusion, and I found that both have advantages for certain work. Exchanging one for the other is very easy too. At one time, Peachtree also offered a 16" long piece of their Uni-T-Feence as well. This made a great short fence ending just past the teeth of the saw blade, much like the European fences. Using it when a short fence was desired eliminated the problem of using the longer Uni-T-Fence as a short fence because it's length in the pulled back position tends to get in the saw operator's way, especially in a small shop like mine.

The motor on that saw is a special motor. It is dual voltage. On 120 volt power it will run from a 15 amp circuit and produce 1 1/2 hp. When set up to run on 240 volt power it produces 2 full hp.. These were designed this way so a contractor could use it on a job site with only 120 volt power, but could change the connections for 240 volt power and get 2 full hp when the saw was back in his shop. It is not a standard design motor.

What I'm saying is "Sell the saw and fence for what they are worth. Don't give them away. The saw that I rebuilt and set up for my son is every bit as accurate as my Unisaw. It's main draw back is that it has no provision to contain the saw dust. Otherwise, it is a far better saw than the Contractors saws available today.

Charley
 

Frank Schaffer

New User
Frank
The Unifence by itself is worth about $200. I bought and refurbed a 34-444 saw (a year older version) for my son that had the old Jet Lock Fence on it. The saw itself was in bad condition and with no motor, and I paid $150 for it, found a used motor from a similar model saw for $50 that needed work, and a miter gauge and better condition Jet Lock Fence for $25.

Your saw is all there and in great condition with a more valuable fence. I would have jumped at the opportunity to buy it for $450 or $500 with that fence on it. Many people don't like the Unifence, but when you start asking questions about why, they usually admit that they have never tried it. The Unifence extrusion can be swapped to the other side of the main casting to use on the other side of the blade very easily. It can also be laid down for a "Low Fence", again, on either side of the saw blade. Peachtree Woodworking sells square Unifence extrusions with T slots to make it easier to attach accessories top and side. There is an HDPE wear strip along the rub point of this fence extrusion to make wood slide along the fence easier, and both the original and this fence extrusion can be slid back and forward and locked in any position when a short fence or just a longer "starting fence is desired for ripping long stock. I bought the Uni-T-Fence from Peachtree, but also kept the original fence extrusion, and I found that both have advantages for certain work. Exchanging one for the other is very easy too. At one time, Peachtree also offered a 16" long piece of their Uni-T-Feence as well. This made a great short fence ending just past the teeth of the saw blade, much like the European fences. Using it when a short fence was desired eliminated the problem of using the longer Uni-T-Fence as a short fence because it's length in the pulled back position tends to get in the saw operator's way, especially in a small shop like mine.

The motor on that saw is a special motor. It is dual voltage. On 120 volt power it will run from a 15 amp circuit and produce 1 1/2 hp. When set up to run on 240 volt power it produces 2 full hp.. These were designed this way so a contractor could use it on a job site with only 120 volt power, but could change the connections for 240 volt power and get 2 full hp when the saw was back in his shop. It is not a standard design motor.

What I'm saying is "Sell the saw and fence for what they are worth. Don't give them away. The saw that I rebuilt and set up for my son is every bit as accurate as my Unisaw. It's main draw back is that it has no provision to contain the saw dust. Otherwise, it is a far better saw than the Contractors saws available today.

Charley
Charles, thank you! I really appreciate your detailed explanation for what I have here.
 

Gotcha6

Dennis
Staff member
Corporate Member
The Unifence by itself is worth about $200. I bought and refurbed a 34-444 saw (a year older version) for my son that had the old Jet Lock Fence on it. The saw itself was in bad condition and with no motor, and I paid $150 for it, found a used motor from a similar model saw for $50 that needed work, and a miter gauge and better condition Jet Lock Fence for $25.

Your saw is all there and in great condition with a more valuable fence. I would have jumped at the opportunity to buy it for $450 or $500 with that fence on it. Many people don't like the Unifence, but when you start asking questions about why, they usually admit that they have never tried it. The Unifence extrusion can be swapped to the other side of the main casting to use on the other side of the blade very easily. It can also be laid down for a "Low Fence", again, on either side of the saw blade. Peachtree Woodworking sells square Unifence extrusions with T slots to make it easier to attach accessories top and side. There is an HDPE wear strip along the rub point of this fence extrusion to make wood slide along the fence easier, and both the original and this fence extrusion can be slid back and forward and locked in any position when a short fence or just a longer "starting fence is desired for ripping long stock. I bought the Uni-T-Fence from Peachtree, but also kept the original fence extrusion, and I found that both have advantages for certain work. Exchanging one for the other is very easy too. At one time, Peachtree also offered a 16" long piece of their Uni-T-Feence as well. This made a great short fence ending just past the teeth of the saw blade, much like the European fences. Using it when a short fence was desired eliminated the problem of using the longer Uni-T-Fence as a short fence because it's length in the pulled back position tends to get in the saw operator's way, especially in a small shop like mine.

The motor on that saw is a special motor. It is dual voltage. On 120 volt power it will run from a 15 amp circuit and produce 1 1/2 hp. When set up to run on 240 volt power it produces 2 full hp.. These were designed this way so a contractor could use it on a job site with only 120 volt power, but could change the connections for 240 volt power and get 2 full hp when the saw was back in his shop. It is not a standard design motor.

What I'm saying is "Sell the saw and fence for what they are worth. Don't give them away. The saw that I rebuilt and set up for my son is every bit as accurate as my Unisaw. It's main draw back is that it has no provision to contain the saw dust. Otherwise, it is a far better saw than the Contractors saws available today.

Charley
I think I have a version of this too. Is the motor driven by a gear belt? I've never really looked at the nameplate to see, but I have had to replace the belt, somewhat akin to the old gear belts on the original Porter Cable/Delta 10" miter saws. And yes, the seller had installed a Unifence and included all the mounting templates. Love the fence.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
The motor on that saw is a special motor. It is dual voltage. On 120 volt power it will run from a 15 amp circuit and produce 1 1/2 hp. When set up to run on 240 volt power it produces 2 full hp.. These were designed this way so a contractor could use it on a job site with only 120 volt power, but could change the connections for 240 volt power and get 2 full hp when the saw was back in his shop. It is not a standard design motor.



Charley
Marketing hype, or lies, garbage, and trash, (Choose one.) There is NOTHING SPECIAL about this motor. When operated on 120, the run windings are in parallel, and on 240, they are in series. The start winding doesn't change. Delta (actually Marathon) down rated this motor on 120 so they could put a 15 amp plug on it.
 

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