Looking for my first table saw, need recommendations

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DannyBoy

New User
DannyBoy
Hello, i am new to woodworking. I have a drill press and recently bought a 14 inch rikon bandsaw. I now am looking for a table saw. I have a good size shop so woyld consider a cabinet saw. I see a delta unisaw on the classified. Does anyone have an opinion of this machine?
 

Bill Clemmons

Bill
Corporate Member
The Delta Unisaws are excellent machines, especially the older models. I've had a 1982 model for about 20 years and use it every day.

The one in the classifieds appears to be an older model, which is good. It has the original fence, which for my purposes would downgrade it just a bit. There are some much better aftermarket fences, but expensive. It is also 220v so make sure your shop is wired for 220.
 

KenOfCary

Ken
Staff member
Corporate Member
The Unisaw is a good machine, but I really prefer my SawStop - a highly accurate saw with the obvious extra safety feature. I have a friend in church that lost the use of the fingers in his left hand using a table saw. They reattached most of them, but a year later, he still can't use his hand very well.

I really don't want to start a SawStop / NonSawStap war here, but it's something to think about.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
The Unisaw would more be classified as one's last table saw rather than a first. Maybe better put, it could be the only table saw. By getting that in your shop, you'll skip the expenses of cheap first table saws, then upgrades, then upgrades until you finally end up with a Unisaw as a table saw. The Unisaw was my fourth table saw and even at that, mine was an old model that had been restored. That was back in the mid 1980s. The Powermatic model 66 is also a good "last" table saw. Both the Unisaw and the 66 were $3K saws when they were discontinued and even by then they had cheap motors and switches on them.
 

Stuart Kent

Stuart
Senior User
you can't beat a unisaw for the value or the prices on used ones. Powermatic 66 was it's main competitor and arguably slightly better in a few regards.
 

JGregJ

Greg
User
I've been tempted many times by that Unisaw in the classifieds -- but I don't have the space or 220.
 

Jeremy Scuteri

Moderator
Jeremy
I had a 52" left tilt delta unisaw with a bieseymeyer fence for several years. It worked great, no complaints. As a frame of reference, I picked it up on craigslist for about $1,000 in 2011. It was less 5 years old at the time.
 

zdorsch

Zach
Corporate Member
Greg, they don’t take up more room than a contractors saw—actually less if the contractor saw has the motor hanging out the back!

Many motors can be rewired for 120...
 

Berta

Berta
Corporate Member
My best advice on ANY tool purchase is always buy the best you can afford. Going cheap will most always require an upgrade.
 

DSWalker

David
Corporate Member
I'm casually looking for an 'upgrade' to my table saw, so I can attest to the buy what you want the first time.

I saw the Delta below on the Raleigh Craigs list. Looks like a decent older saw, but there is limited info out there on it. Not quite the Unisaw, but an upgrade to their contractor style saw at the time is about all I could find.

Not mine, and not endorsing, just passing it along. Maybe someone on here knows a little more about it.

Delta 10" Tilting Arbor Saw [table saw]


https://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/d/delta-tilting-arbor-saw/6625331186.html
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
That's a white painted Unisaw. Zoom in on the front label. Delta was trying to up sales with various color schemes. Its a newer Unisaw, so don't expect the heft that the older castings had.
 

SubGuy

Administrator
Zach
I will second that. I have a Jet JTAS 10XL 3HP 220V saw. I want a bigger one or a slider. Working bigger and longer pieces has been quite a task. I can't always get an extra hand and it's getting old rigging up jigs for more space on the infeed side. Table is too small all the way around for the work I do. But that being said, the saw is a phenomenal upgrade from the contractor I was using. I have learned that the table saw you buy should be for the work you plan on doing. My dream would be a slider from Hammer/Felder or SawStop Slider. But I think if I buy a slider I will go for bang for buck with is Grizzly IMHO. I'm not trying to convince you into buying the super expensive slider, just make a plan on how you will use it and go from there. It won't hurt you to start with a cheaper saw and upgrade later if you need to feel it out. Just go into it with that in mind. Unisaws are great, so are Powermatics and my I do love my Jet. Grizzlies cut good and I've heard great things about Laguna saws. Stick with the big boys and you won't go wrong. Stay away from BORG brands and I'm not a big fan of Craftsman saws, but that's just me.
My best advice on ANY tool purchase is always buy the best you can afford. Going cheap will most always require an upgrade.
 

JGregJ

Greg
User
Closely related topic, hope it's not in bad form to pile on to this thread...
When purchasing a used saw from someone, what's the best way to transport it?
In my case I have a small pick-up truck, so there is plenty of room in the bed, but I've been pondering a few questions:
They are top heavy -- so a wondering if they can be transported in their normal orientation.
They are heavy, cbviously strength of individuals vary, but can they just be lifted into the bed ?
I'd suspect it takes more than 2 people, perhaps 4?
Are there any concerns about lifting from the table top / fence guides?

I figured a few of you folks have done this before so curious how you went about transporting it.
 
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bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
A lot will depend on the saw since makes and models vary significantly.
With extensions removed, I'll tip the saw over on the bed of my van then reach down and flip up the base and slide the saw in on its top. It travels fine upside down. Remove the same way. One man job (at least it was when I was younger).

http://www.owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=181530&start=30

Generally, the better the saw, the easier it is to take them apart. Two Unisaws in the back of a VW hatchback.

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I've seen people rent trailers and have four man moving crews for one Unisaw with extension tables. The buyer didn't want to take things apart and then put them back together again, so that was his price of admission.
 

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JimD

Jim
Senior User
I still use a Ryobi BT3100. It is my third table saw. I've used it for about 20 years. It has significant limitations but I've made at least 4 bedroom sets and lots of other furniture with it. They are not sold new but you can sometimes find them used. The top is small, they have no miter slot, they use a 15A universal motor (but are belt drive), etc.. With an appropriate and sharp blade, I can cut over 3 inches deep in hardwood.

I am thinking about a SawStop. While I have done this for decades safely, I fear my attention span and focus is not always what it was when I was younger. If I get one, it will be the 110V professional model - cabinet style saw.

If I buy a cheaper cabinet style saw, it will either be used or a Grizzly hybrid (110V). I could bring 220V into the shop but I don't see the point. A 3hp could probably do what I do without having to swap blades for deep rips but it doesn't take long to swap blades.

Desirable features include a riving knife (helps avoid kickback), left tilt (tilts away from the fence instead of into it), easily removed/replaced riving knife and guard (so you will use them), sawdust chute around the blade to help with collection, and good rip fence. Some are more important to me than others, I did not put them into a particular order. On a used saw, depending some on how old it is, you may get right tilt, possibly no riving knife, almost certainly not so easy to remove replace riving knife and/or guard, and you may or may not get a good fence. It is likely to be big and sturdy (if it is a Delta or Powermatic). Once you get it into its home, big and heavy tend to mean quieter and smoother.

I see the favorable comments about sliding tables but have not used a saw with that feature. My little Ryobi had a very crude one that does not work well. The videos I see make that feature attractive. But it comes on European saws which may have less desirable features too - like odd sized arbors.

Just some random thoughts. I've managed to make things no matter how crude my table saw. I used a home made one for about 10 years. Better tools do not make better end results. They make better end results easier to obtain. You indicate you have a lot of space. I do not. So I use a track saw almost as much as my table saw. It also helps make up for some of my table saws limitations. To cut up full sheets on a table saw you need 8 feet in each direction around the blade. Or it needs to be on a mobile base so you can shift it. So about a 16 foot square. With a track saw, I put the sheet on my outfeed table/workbench with something under it and make my cuts. I do not need infeed/outfeed/side support.
 
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