Looking for a table saw...advice needed!

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Gilley23

New User
Bryan
Ok guys, I'm a hobbyist not a professional so I'm in no need of a SawStop or the likes....although that would be awesome! Also, space is a concern. Really, one of the hybrid type of saws would be the largest that I could house space for.

This would be used for fairly accurate cutting, not just rip cuts. I've been searching on Craigslist for older units, but to be honest I don't know what's decent and what's not. All I know is that this 10yr old POS Ryobi that I'm using is eventually going to rip my face off from all of its uncontainable awesomeness.

So, on a budget, what would you guys recommend looking for? I really want to keep this under $300, preferably closer to $200. Yes, I know, that isn't much. I'm in Charlotte, btw, but don't mind driving a little bit if needed.

Thanks so much!
 
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JeffH

Jeff
Senior User
Not too long ago I decided that my Dewalt job site table saw wasn't doing what I needed -- wouldn't take a dado blade, small table size, etc. -- although it was a nice quality tool. I picked up a Ridgid table saw in nice condition for $400 from a woodworker on CL closing his shop, with extra blades (including 2 dado sets), zero clearance inserts, and a couple of jigs. Then I sold my Dewalt with stand for $200 to somebody who really needed a jobsite saw for his work. Net outlay -- $200 for a $600 saw.

Almost all the negative reviews I've seen about the Ridgid have had to do with truncheon issues out of the box when purchased, so I figured getting a used one meant that someone else had taken that risk and this one would not be one of the problem ones. Very happy with the saw -- built-in mobile base, smooth running, good fence, cast iron top, easy to make precise adjustments.
 
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Henry W

Henry
Corporate Member
RDU CL saw for $300 in Mebane...

Here's a great deal if it is in as good condition as it appears to be... I realize it is not next door for you in Matthews, but likely worth a trip.

Henry
_________________________________________

https://raleigh.craigslist.org/tls/6091650919.html

[h=2]Delta 10" Table Saw - $300 (mebane)[/h][h=2][/h] image 1 of 4
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© craigslist - Map data © OpenStreetMap



(google map)

condition: excellent
make / manufacturer: Delta


Belt Drive Contractor Saw with Unifence and side table. Works Great.
 
Gofor

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Ridgid cast iron topped table saws are pretty good. I am still using my TS3650 after 11 years, and it still holds true. From what I have read, the newer models are also good with the exception that I did see some bad reviews of the granite-topped model. If it has the hercu-lift feature (mine came with it), it is easily moved around on a smooth floor, so although larger than a contractor saw, might fit your needs.. Don't know if you will find a used one in your price range, but it may be a brand you could key in on.

Go
 
Rwe2156

Rwe2156

DrBob
Senior User
Truthfully you will be very limited with that budget. The older Delta contractor saws are out there which are pretty decent. The new ones are not. Around me (when they do come up which is seldom) older model machines like the Rockwells or Unisaws worth looking at are $600-1K. Definitely do NOT buy an old model Craftsman especially the ones with the straight screw handle on the fence (talk about a POJ!!).

My recommendation is either increase the budget or keep looking for a used contractor saw.
 
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Gilley23

New User
Bryan
I just came across an older, larger Rigid saw, not a jobsite saw. It's belt driven. I don't have a model #for it yet, but going to look at it tonight.

Is there anything that I should look for in particular for either good signs or bad?
 
Gofor

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Gilley23 said:
I just came across an older, larger Rigid saw, not a jobsite saw. It's belt driven. I don't have a model #for it yet, but going to look at it tonight.

Is there anything that I should look for in particular for either good signs or bad?
Click to expand...

Mine is also belt driven. Much quieter than direct drive. I would make sure that the blade moves up and down fully, and tilts left all the way to 45 degrees (although if its all loaded with sawdust underneath, it may need to have it cleaned out before you get full travel.

Make sure it runs. If it currently is wired for 220, and isn't difficult to change it back to 110. Just make sure the motor isn't smoked.

Also, pass on it if the top or extensions has large areas of flaking rust, and definitely pass if the cast iron is cracked. Not hard to clean up light rust, but large pitted areas may affect the flatness, especially in the areas close to the blade when running narrow pieces past the blade.

Check the fence to make sure no parts are broken, and that it will tighten down. Also that it will move the full length of the rails.

Remove the insert, and see if you can wobble the blade. If the trunnions bolts are tight, this is a sign that the trunnion bearings are shot, and they are a pain to replace, and bad bearings may have damaged the arbor shaft. Pass on it if this is the case.

Bottom line, if its fairly clean, he cranks it up and runs a 3/4" board through it with a smooth straight cut, odds are he has kept it adjusted and has taken care of it.

The one poor feature of the older Ridgid saws like I have is the splitter. Its a pain to get set up right, and can get knocked out of alignment fairly easy. If he has removed it, its probably because he got tired of messing with it, so don't fault him for that, but if he has it, take it with you. There are after market attachments, tools (board buddy, etc) that can prevent kick-back if you decide its not worth the trouble.

If you are going to take it home, realize that fully assembled it weighs in over 300 lb, so you may need help unloading it.

Good luck.

Go
 
G

Gilley23

New User
Bryan
Ok guys, so with the above advice in mind, I pulled the trigger on this guy:

20170417_204009~01.jpg
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No flaking paint, no pitting in the table, the blade raises up and down and tilts very smoothly, from 0-45°. The fence is in great condition and moves very smoothly. Really, this saw looks like it sat in place for years with little use, mainly being a place to set things for the time being.

Ok, now the big question for myself, to see how I did.....what would be a normal for-sale price on this guy?
 
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Gilley23

New User
Bryan
Also, if there is anyone in the Charlotte area that would be generous enough to help me set up this guy, I'd gladly buy lunch and the beer! I'm a newbie woodworker so the advice and tips are always welcome and appreciated! Plus, you'd get to hang out with my dog....the super friendly 205lb mastiff!
 
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Gilley23

New User
Bryan
junquecol said:
Is that the one that knocks you down, then licks every feature off your face? I have Brindle Terrier that's like that.
Click to expand...

Lol, he'll knock you down by leaning on you then as he shakes his head a rainbow of slobber will sling through the air! When he snores he shakes the house and when he has gas, well, you'll know it. I wouldn't trade him for anything. The most well behaved, friendly dog I've ever had.
 
Gofor

Gofor

Mark
Corporate Member
Hard for me to put a price on it. It looks good, and a little wd-40 and a scotch brite pad should clean that top up and get it ready for some paste wax. It is a good saw with a good track record. Probably about 18 yrs old or so. That saw was sold with a lifetime warrantee tied to the serial number, not the owner, so that may still be valid, and I am pretty sure parts are still available through a variety of sources (V-belts on Amazon, etc, and other parts through eReplacementParts.com). I think parts for a Craftsman Model 113.xxxxxx are also interchangeable.

If I had to guess a price, I would say with its capabilities, $200 or so would be fair, but that is just a guess. I tend to place the value for vintage user tools based on what shape it is in, and how much I have to put into it (work as well as $$) to get it to do what I need.

Looks to me like ya done good.

Go

I think this is the Owner's Manual: https://www.manualslib.com/manual/859943/Ridgid-Ts2412.html#manual
 
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G

Gilley23

New User
Bryan
Gofor said:
Hard for me to put a price on it. It looks good, and a little wd-40 and a scotch brite pad should clean that top up and get it ready for some paste wax. It is a good saw with a good track record. Probably about 18 yrs old or so. That saw was sold with a lifetime warrantee tied to the serial number, not the owner, so that may still be valid, and I am pretty sure parts are still available through a variety of sources (V-belts on Amazon, etc, and other parts through eReplacementParts.com). I think parts for a Craftsman Model 113.xxxxxx are also interchangeable.

If I had to guess a price, I would say with its capabilities, $200 or so would be fair, but that is just a guess. I tend to place the value for vintage user tools based on what shape it is in, and how much I have to put into it (work as well as $$) to get it to do what I need.

Looks to me like ya done good.

Go
Click to expand...

I paid $175 for it, so not bad! Good first real table saw. Now to make a mitre sled and crosscut sled!
 
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