Lock Rabbet Joint Durability

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HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
Hey folks,

I'm laying out plans for a dresser, and am trying to decide what joinery method I want to use for the drawers. Dovetails are the obvious approach, but I like the simplicity of a lock rabbet, or drawer lock joint, (I don't have a dovetail jig yet). I'm planning on using 1/2" plywood for the drawer sides & back, and 3/4" Cherry for the face. I realize that the dovetail is the stronger joint, but would a lock rabbet be a bad choice for this application? Any experience, good or bad?

Thanks.
 

Ken Massingale

New User
Ken
I've never had a lock rabbet fail Heath. I like that they are strong, quick and easy.
If you 'want' to do dovetails I have one of these that I don't use or need anymore. You're welcome to it if you want.
 

4yanks

New User
Willie
With plywood sides nails will do just fine. If you decide to do dovetails cut them by hand. Its a lot cheaper setup. It only takes a little longer when you include setup for a dovetail jig.
 

Rob

New User
Rob
Heath, you've seen my chest I use for lathe tools, the drawers are made with locking rabbits. Works great, very strong and very easy to do.
 

bobby g

Bob
Corporate Member
Heath,

I've used the lock rabbet joint on dressers and on shop drawers with no problems. However, it's pretty easy to do hand cut dovetails in plywood and if you want to give it a try, I'd be glad to show you how I do it. My shop is about 6 miles east of Pittsboro.

Bob
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
Thanks for the feedback guys! Thinking on it a little more, I think the overall fit & finish would look better w/ solid wood sides & back. That should add some strength to the ribs of the drawer lock as well, (if I go that way).

Ken, that is a very generous offer, but I'd hate to take your jig. You may not use it now, but you'll definitely need it when it's gone, (that is how that works right?). Thanks though!

Willie/ Bob, interesting idea! I took the dovetail, M&T class @ the Woodwright's school last Fall - I don't have many good hand tools, but I might just have to go out & grab a good backsaw.... I will only have 4 drawers, & that'll definately bump up the "personal touch" factor. Food for thought. Bob, I very well may take you up on your offer....

Rob, Good call, I didn't even think about that!

Decisions Decisions.
 

Bob Carreiro

New User
Bob
Just another locking method...

1) Rabbet the sides the thickness of your subface 1/4" from front edge
2) Groove drawer face backs with 1/4" deep stop datos up from the bottom (or inset from bottom to leave no evidence) with the width of the subfaces' thickness.
3) Glue the drawer box as usual, then insert the rabbet tails into the datos (no glue necessary) and screw the subface to the face from inside the box as usual.

The sides are now "locked" and will be impossible for the sides to pull away when constructed in this way.

I use this method and it works fine. I do not use dovetails. IMHO, dovetails were a thing of the past used to mark quality furniture, namely because only master craftsmen could accurately (hand) cut the time-consuming joints leading the buyer to think the entire peice must be quality! But as we all know, router jigs abound, and even the most novice WW can master the operation leaving other joints and details wanting. Therefore, "quality furniture" can no longer be measured by (drawer) box construction, ie. dovetail joinery or other single detail. Just my thoughts.


happy WW,
Bob Carreiro
 

HMH

Heath Hendrick
Senior User
Thanks Bob.

I've never seen that variation of a lock joint, (which is not saying much), but yeah, I can definitely see how that would be a strong joint. You could almost call it a double locking joint. Thanks for the tip!
 

bwat

New User
Bill
Sounds like a good [STRIKE]excuse[/STRIKE] reason to buy a new dovetail saw or jig to me!:icon_thum
 
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