Lathe work holding

[pop-pop]

Recently the have been several posts from new lathe owners. Once they realize that the lathe machine is but the down payment and want to expand beyond turning between centers, a scroll chuck is the next purchase. The next step of how to hold items to be turned can be perplexing. After a while, “how to hold” will become second nature. I’m thinking that the experienced turners here could offer some examples as a jump start for those new turners. Topics could include chucks, mandrels, friction drives, etc. I’ll start with a mandrel example below:

Recently I made this belt tension lever extension for my DP and that task inspired this post.

First step was to drill the mounting hole (and I need to sharpen that bit).

Next step was turning the exterior.

After parting off, the knob needs to be held somehow to finish its end. One way is to turn a mandrel to fit. I always seem to make the mandrel a tad undersized but some tape will make a snug fit.

And now the knob’s end can be finished on the lathe.

This technique is obvious now, but it was not at all obvious when I turned my first knob.

Hopefully, others here will post holding tips to help new turners get started,
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[JRedding]

That’s a great way to do it! I have and strongly recommend the book Fixtures and Chucks for Woodturning by Doc Green. It shows different ways to use chucks and also how to create various jigs for holding material on the lathe. His website also contains an incredible amount of information - Doc Green Woodturner.

 

[ChemE75]

@pop-pop, great timing for this post. I acquired a lathe in ‘25. It has faceplates but no chucks. I’m hoping to see some discussion and ideas here. No specific needs yet. But I just started looking into a chuck to start out with and see two primary styles - a 4 segmented circular type that often mention dovetail jaws for inside/outside grip on a recess or tenon The other looks like 4 stepped jaws with grippy groves that can also be reversed for external/internal gripping. I’m thinking the first I mention may be best to start out for small bowls, vases, etc. Looes like the full circle will be more secure. Really no specific projects yet since I’m lacking on turning lumber. Plus got a few furniture projects to start soon. But hoping to do some foraging for some suitable chunks in the new year.

 

[pop-pop]

@pop-pop, great timing for this post. I acquired a lathe in ‘25. It has faceplates but no chucks. I’m hoping to see some discussion and ideas here. No specific needs yet. But I just started looking into a chuck to start out with and see two primary styles - a 4 segmented circular type that often mention dovetail jaws for inside/outside grip on a recess or tenon The other looks like 4 stepped jaws with grippy groves that can also be reversed for external/internal gripping. I’m thinking the first I mention may be best to start out for small bowls, vases, etc. Looes like the full circle will be more secure. Really no specific projects yet since I’m lacking on turning lumber. Plus got a few furniture projects to start soon. But hoping to do some foraging for some suitable chunks in the new year.

Nova chucks that I have typically come with one set of the circular jaws which can be used in expanding or squeezing mode. No experience with other brands. Probably the best jaws for “bowling”.

I use the pen jaws (top one) often for square stock under 1-3/8” to make knobs and stuff for my shop.

 

[Knuckles]

thanks for the post and idea with pictures.

 

[JRedding]

@ChemE75 - While Nova has had some liquidity problems in the US and is now selling direct, the Rikon chucks are a good option in terms of price and performance. Many stores that carried Nova carry them (Klingspor, Rockler, Woodcraft). For those of us who started with the Nova chucks and have a number of chucks and various jaw sets, Nova and Rikon are interchangeable.

Nova uses dovetail jaws, which I’ve come to like, and you can get stepped Nova/Rikon jaws as well. I’ve come to like the dovetail jaws - it’s hard (not impossible) for the piece to come out unintentionally because the “bottom” of the tenon is wider than the size of the jaw opening (though be careful not to crush the tenon and weaken it or it can break (been there, done that early on).

As you go down this rabbit hole you’ll hear many opinions but quickly learn that 1 chuck turns into 5 or more (don’t ask how I know that) and you’ll want to settle on a single brand relatively quickly so you can use jaws across the platform.

 

[Mike Davis]

I installed a Oneway Stronghold chuck on my lathe 20 something years ago and it has never been off except for the 3-4 days while the head was in my favorite machine shop being transformed from a wobbly .40 eccentric shaft to -.0001 perfectly smooth.

The Oneway does everything for me from worm screw glob holding to center drives, dovetail jaws, Mega jumbo jaws, and Collet sets for small diameter precision parts from about 3/8 to 1 3/4". Beyond that I make stub tenon holders for knobs, wheels, lids, and sometimes small bowls.

The first bowl I made over 40 years ago was from a chunk of walnut firewood my brother-in-law saved off his co-worker's truck and brought me. I had no idea how to turn a bowl but I flattened one side with an ax, glued it to a piece of plywood and screwed that to a faceplate. I used a screwdriver that I sharpened to turn both the inside and outside of the bowl. Since then I learned a few things but mostly just do my own thing as it relates to turning.

 

[ChemE75]

It’s an old delta 46-111 so limited to 11”, only 1/3hp so a lighter wt chuck will be best. The rikon z3 looks like a good quality option at a good price. I’m quite a ways from bowl/vase turning, so I’ll wait til I’ve actually got something to turn. But appreciate the thoughts and will keep an eye on this thread for helpful hints.