Krenov Style Wooden Hand Planes - Anybody ever used them? If so, how do they perform?

Status
Not open for further replies.

jocrawford

New User
John
Hey folks,

Just looking to get some feedback on the Krenov wooden planes you see everybody building on YouTube. I really like the design of the plane but have not had the chance to use one. I am looking at building a few to use in my shop, but first I would like to get some input on how well they work or don't work, their durability and ease of tuning.

I have seen countless videos on YouTube on building the planes but I haven't found any videos of anyone actually using it. If any of the fine folks here at NCWW could be so kind to as to provide some input on this it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John Crawford
 

Newboy

George
User
I made a few, but was never happy with them.
Later I found the problem was twofold; I really was not very good at making the blades, and my sharpening skills were worse.
May try again one day.
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
John, scroll down and read similar threads. I made mine when Bill Anderson did a workshop for TWA, but life has gotten in the way of finishing touches (shaping handles,) so it's on my bucket, I mean barrel list.
 

Barron

New User
Barron
Hock blades are great, as is his book on sharpening. Scott Meek has a great video on making a wood body plane and offers classes on building them. The video gives good tips on adjusting the blade.
 

mayszs

New User
Zack
Hey folks,

Just looking to get some feedback on the Krenov wooden planes you see everybody building on YouTube. I really like the design of the plane but have not had the chance to use one. I am looking at building a few to use in my shop, but first I would like to get some input on how well they work or don't work, their durability and ease of tuning.

I have seen countless videos on YouTube on building the planes but I haven't found any videos of anyone actually using it. If any of the fine folks here at NCWW could be so kind to as to provide some input on this it would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
John Crawford

Like most tools thier performance is based on how well they are made and what components you out in them.
I can tell you that keeping a wooden hand plane tuned up incredibly easy and they perform at least as well, in my opinion better, than thier cast iron counterparts (specifically antique Stanley planes as I refuse to spend $500 on a decent new casting). Added bonus is if/when they fall off your workbench you pick it back up and keep going.
If you don't have any experience using wooden planes I highly recommend you find an old one and try it.
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
I have a Krenov style someone made for me a few years ago. And I have some wood body transitional planes. Why is that relevant? Well I love the way wood body planes glide across wood, for me there is something satisfying about it. The Krenov plane unfortunately was not made to the highest standards, it's beautiful to look at but the mouth is too tight and it clogs with chips. I tried to file the mouth open and realized they had used filler (apparently they had damaged the mouth making it). So to fix it properly I need to either file the mouth open and attach a new sole or inlay a new piece for the mouth and I just haven't had the gumption to get around to it. It's also a little touchy to adjust since you have to tap with a hammer to move the iron, which I'm sure gets easier with experience. So unfortunately my experience probably isn't very helpful except to iterate that performance will depend on how well they are made.
 

mayszs

New User
Zack
I have a Krenov style someone made for me a few years ago. And I have some wood body transitional planes. Why is that relevant? Well I love the way wood body planes glide across wood, for me there is something satisfying about it. The Krenov plane unfortunately was not made to the highest standards, it's beautiful to look at but the mouth is too tight and it clogs with chips. I tried to file the mouth open and realized they had used filler (apparently they had damaged the mouth making it). So to fix it properly I need to either file the mouth open and attach a new sole or inlay a new piece for the mouth and I just haven't had the gumption to get around to it. It's also a little touchy to adjust since you have to tap with a hammer to move the iron, which I'm sure gets easier with experience. So unfortunately my experience probably isn't very helpful except to iterate that performance will depend on how well they are made.

Rick,
i wasn't refering to transitional iron/wood planes, I was referring to solid wood planes made in the 1800s by companies like Sandusky. These were all wood, typically Beech, with Cast Steel Blades. The designs were typically modeled after the English Planes of the day.
You'll find that they are easier to use for extended durations, due in part to thier lighter weight and reduced friction with the piece being planed, particularly when using the higher angle planes on difficult grain or when hogging thick shavings off to straighten a warped board or large panel.
ill agree it takes a bit more effort to learn to adjust the iron but with some practice it gets easier and faster.
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
I have watched a few experts work with these planes and if it were me, I would go nuts tapping on the wood body then the blade then side to side continuously trying to get the shaving just right.

Give me a Stanley with a Hock or Veritas blade.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
I have watched a few experts work with these planes and if it were me, I would go nuts tapping on the wood body then the blade then side to side continuously trying to get the shaving just right.

Give me a Stanley with a Hock or Veritas blade.
I said the same thing to Scott Meek when I visited him -"How long does it take you to adjust them?"
He showed me and - WOW, it seemed so easy...

Now when Mike set-up my Stanley Bailey #6 and we sharpened the blade on the #4 I took a piece of his Sapele "canoe lumber" (see below) and flattened it and sized it very quickly...

I came home and cursed both of those planes that they were not the ones I had in Walnut Cove...

A second trip to Mike's and everything is (nearly) kosher...

It is what the apprentice is supposed to learn - "Time in Task" or "Practice makes perfect" What ever addage you have that it simply takes time to learn how to do something and somethings are a faster curve than others!

*** Canoe lumber - a board that has twist, cup and bow!
 

Chris C

Chris
Senior User
It is what the apprentice is supposed to learn - "Time in Task" or "Practice makes perfect" What ever addage you have that it simply takes time to learn how to do something and somethings are a faster curve than others!

Exactly....
 

Rick M

New User
Rick
Rick,
i wasn't refering to transitional iron/wood planes, I was referring to solid wood planes made in the 1800s

My post was a response to Jocrawford, but I was agreeing with you that performance depends on how well they are made which is true for any kind of plane, any kind of tool actually. I guess to summarize, I believe performance will depend on build quality, not on the style (Stanley vs wood body). Either plane can do quality work, just the Stanley type are easier to adjust and wear longer.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top