Kreg pocket hole screws & clamps

[Bas]

I plan to build my cabinets using pocket hole screws (if I can ever get my thumb out of this splint... :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead. The screw length charts, like the one at McFeely's are very helpful, but don't address screw gauge.

A few questions:

• What screw gauge do you use for assembling cabinets made of 3/4" plywood? #8 seems the logical size, but I wonder if #6 would be sufficient.
• Same question, but for 3/4" face frames
• The Kreg kit came with some #7 pocket hole screws, any advantage in using those?
• McFeely's has a #8 Super-Eight pocket hole screw that seems to a "universal" screw for everything related to cabinetry. Has anyone used these?
• Same question, but for the longer PocketMax screws to join 2x4 material.
• Any preference for Kreg vs. McFeely's?
• The K3 kit came with a single face clamp. I also got one of those bench clamps from Rockler when they were on sale, but I'd have to build some sort of fixture for it. Which clamps (face, right angle) do you use most often, and how many do I need?

 

[JackLeg]

I plan to build my cabinets using pocket hole screws (if I can ever get my thumb out of this splint... :BangHead: :BangHead: :BangHead. The screw length charts, like the one at McFeely's are very helpful, but don't address screw gauge.

A few questions:

• What screw gauge do you use for assembling cabinets made of 3/4" plywood? #8 seems the logical size, but I wonder if #6 would be sufficient.
• Same question, but for 3/4" face frames
• The Kreg kit came with some #7 pocket hole screws, any advantage in using those?
• McFeely's has a #8 Super-Eight pocket hole screw that seems to a "universal" screw for everything related to cabinetry. Has anyone used these?
• Same question, but for the longer PocketMax screws to join 2x4 material.
• Any preference for Kreg vs. McFeely's?
• The K3 kit came with a single face clamp. I also got one of those bench clamps from Rockler when they were on sale, but I'd have to build some sort of fixture for it. Which clamps (face, right angle) do you use most often, and how many do I need?

I don't think you'll see an appreciable difference in #7 or #8's. I use Kreg 1 1/4"L for 3/4 stuff. You do plan to use some glue, right?

If you've got the Master System it should have come with a couple clamps. I like the bench clamp for holding and assembling, as well as sanding.

Any good pocket screw should do. If McFeely is cheaper, I'd use them. I try to catch them on sale at Woodcraft or Klingspor and buy the box of 500 or larger.

 

[SteveColes]

Bas, from what I can tell the unofficial recommendations are something like this:

Fine thread 6 and 7
Coarse 8 and 7

With the larger gauge used with the longer screws and an overlap at the largest length.

3/4" plywood - 1 1/4 #8

2 x 4 #8 2 1/2

 

[Joe Scharle]

I use both the pad clamp and the right angle (prong ended) clamp on nearly every joint. Also, I use whatever wood clamps that will immobilize the joint while screwing it down. I think you've seen this rolling cabinet that's held together with pocket hole screws only. No glue; I can't see any reason for glue on end grain anyway. I can't see any difference in the holding power between Kreg and McFeely.

View image in gallery​

View image in gallery

And this one has very little glue as well.

View image in gallery​

​

 

[JackLeg]

I defer to "Master Joe" and put away my glue bottle!!:notworthy: LOL!

Joe, that's a spectacular piece! Sorry, Bas, didn't mean to hijack your thread. :nah:

 

[Joe Scharle]

No inference intended, Reggie. Just my personal preference.

 

[JackLeg]

No inference intended, Reggie. Just my personal preference.

None taken, Joe.:no: Just always glad to learn if I'm doing something not needed. I'm messy enough as it is!

 

[Glennbear]

With my limited experience using the Kreg system, I have stuck to the recommendations in their manual and used their screws with success. I have no experience with McFeeley's. :wsmile:

 

[Joe Scharle]

I've just realized that my Kreg kit came with a couple extras that were not included in the re-sale editions. One of which, is a booklet entitled "Basic Cabinetmaking", by Mark Duginske. I highly recommend it. It may be listed on the Kreg site and/or Mark list his contact at:

PO Box 406
Merrill, WI 54452

and

markd@dwave.net

 

[Skymaster]

Bas; If you are going plywood and a SOFT wood like poplar than use coarse threaded screws. If you are going with any wood harder than that use fine thread.
Standard to me is 1 1/4 pocket screws for 3/4 ply into 3/4 frame. Mc feely or Kreg screws are good.
Several other mfg;s out there also: Deerwood, Quick Screws, to mention just 2

 

[Bas]

Bas, from what I can tell the unofficial recommendations are something like this:

Fine thread 6 and 7
Coarse 8 and 7

With the larger gauge used with the longer screws and an overlap at the largest length.

3/4" plywood - 1 1/4 #8

2 x 4 #8 2 1/2

That's what I was looking for - thanks Steve!

I use both the pad clamp and the right angle (prong ended) clamp on nearly every joint. Also, I use whatever wood clamps that will immobilize the joint while screwing it down.

Looks like I'm buying a right angle clamp - I was surprised it wasn't included in the "Master" kit. Not cheap either...

I think you've seen this rolling cabinet that's held together with pocket hole screws only. No glue; I can't see any reason for glue on end grain anyway.

Yes, I've seen that cabinet, you'd need a sledge hammer to break it down :gar-La; I like the idea of not using glue as well. One less thing to worry about during assembly, and a lot less messy.

 

[SteveColes]

Oops! when just reading what I wrote saw that I made a mistake.

Fine thread 6 and 7
Coarse 8 and [STRIKE] 7 [/STRIKE] 10 (only at 2 1/2" length)

 

[junquecol]

Bas, before you start your cabinet project, beg, borrow, or buy a copy of Danny Proulx's book, "Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets." His method changed my method for the better. I now butt screw the boxes, and do an overlay back. Pocket screw face frames and face frames to boxes. Add an end panel to ends of the runs. If you need to borrow a couple of right angle clamps let me know.

 

[Glennbear]

Bas, before you start your cabinet project, beg, borrow, or buy a copy of Danny Proulx's book, "Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets." His method changed my method for the better. I now butt screw the boxes, and do an overlay back. Pocket screw face frames and face frames to boxes. Add an end panel to ends of the runs. If you need to borrow a couple of right angle clamps let me know.

#1 :thumbs_up for that book. :wsmile:

 

[Ozzie-x]

I have a number of cabinets to build for the house. Bruce always has good advice, so I'm sure even an old school cabinet guy like me can learn a few tricks from this book. I'm always in favor of about anything that will make my projects easier and better. I just blew over to ebay and found a used Danny Proulx book "buy it now" for $18 something including shipping. There is a first and second edition, and I guess we are talking about the second edition. There are a couple of others on there for $17 something plus $3 or$4 shipping plus new ones for more. I have been using pocket hole screws a lot lately on this walnut display cabinet I am building and have found them to be very easy and sturdy, and makes for a nice professional looking job.

 

[Bas]

Bas, before you start your cabinet project, beg, borrow, or buy a copy of Danny Proulx's book, "Building Your Own Kitchen Cabinets." His method changed my method for the better. I now butt screw the boxes, and do an overlay back. Pocket screw face frames and face frames to boxes. Add an end panel to ends of the runs. If you need to borrow a couple of right angle clamps let me know.

Thanks Bruce, Glenn and Randy. I actually have that book, already read it a few times. Lots of practical advice in that one!

The main reason I was contemplating the use of pocket screws was to eliminate glue. Although plywood doesn't behave exactly as solid wood, with butt screws you're going into endgrain - no problem if used in conjunction with glue, but maybe not sufficiently strong by themselves. Besides being quicker and less messy, glueless means I can use prefinished plywood, which would be a real time saver when it comes to finishing.

I tend to over engineer my projects though. :embaresse