Kreg Circular Saw Track Guide Question

[Chiefifd32]

Hi All...

Has anyone had experience using a Kreg circular saw track guide system for ripping long boards??? The boards would be 5 to 6 inches wide by 6 feet, I have a Bosch 4100 portable table saw. But ripping boards that length with a 45% angle isn't always as precise as needed sometimes.

(I'm making a hollow mantle, the build will be a beam look with mitered edges and sides)

If anyone has experience with the Kreg track guide system and a similar use I'd be interested in your experiences.

I know Festool is the preferred brand, but I don't want to spend the $$$ on one.

Thank you
Ed

 

[wbarnes]

Are you talking about the Kreg Accu-Cut or the Kreg Rip-Cut?

I got the Rip-Cut for Christmas a couple years ago before I had a table saw. Long story short, I got a good table saw a few months later because I couldn’t get straight cuts with the guide. If it’s something you need for a specialized purpose and you really take your time with it, I believe you can achieve passable results. If you expect to get straight cuts with it like from a table saw then save your money.

I have never used the Accu-Cut, but it appears to be very similar to a track saw setup. I suspect it would do much better than the Rip-Cut but probably still not on par with an actual track saw. Take this assumption with a grain of salt as I have never used it.

My advice: save your money and get an entry level track saw like a Wen.

 

[tvrgeek]

I would either go bottom end like WEN, or top end for the Makita. Festool is slightly better for a huge jump in price. Ripping on a 45 is something most of the objective tests have shown not to be the strong suit for a track saw. There are several actual objective reviews out there.

For less than one inch thick, I don't see why your Bosch won't do the job. Get a real rip blade and setup an outfeed table from some scrap. Use hold downs. The blade makes a big difference.

Have you considered using someone's planer?

 

[Chiefifd32]

tvrgeek..

Do you mean a jointer, I just finished restoring a 1946 Milwaukee/Delta 6 inch one.

I do have a Makita 12 inch planer also....not sure how that would help me out other than getting the rough stock to thickness.

When cutting a 45% on the Bosch 4100, I seem to get drift on longer cuts. Maybe it's just my technique holding the board wrong....

I'm leaning on just using the table saw or simply getting a long straight edge for my circular saw. (See what comes out better).

I also didn't really understand there was a difference between the Kreg Accu-Cut or the Kreg Rip-Cut.......

Appreciate your input......

 

[tvrgeek]

For drift, verify your fence alignment and use hold downs. Use a real rip blade.

Yes, I meant joiner.

 

[Chiefifd32]

I know I'm not using a dedicated rip blade.

I'll try to attach a feather board to the Bosch 4100 fence that's not feather-board friendly. I have aligned the fence for it's trueness. I do have BOW FeatherPro, which I love. I have the double-high FeatherPro, it also doubles as a reminder to keep your hands clear of the blade in my opinion.

I'll let you know how the project comes out...

Thank you
Ed

 

[Unknownroad]

I bought the Kreg and I was not happy at all with the plastic sled. It's just too weak and sloppy to precisely hold a heavy 7-1/4" saw, and I was not satisfied with the results I got with it. I'd go with the table saw for that cut, and just make sure to have nice level outfeed support so it doesn't try to climb the blade.

 

[Chiefifd32]

Yup, that's part of my problem.....not a good set-up for an outfeed table. I need to get a set of rollers I think, I'm working in my garage. Not much room for a larger table saw or dedicated outfeed table.
Thanks for your advice on the Kreg, while I love many of their products, I was going to use my old & heavy 7 1/4-inch circular saw with it.......
I like to ask questions, and learn from people's experiences!

Thank you.......

 

[Canuck]

I have a couple of an earlier version of these flip top stands that I use as infeed/outfeed stands and find they work much better than roller stands. (I believe mine are branded "Rigid" and these have a couple of nice improvements.)

Husky Foldable Glide Top Stand 26.38 in. H, 17.32 in. L x 27.17 in. W Stationary Glide Top Stand 00016 - The Home Depot

The Husky Glide Top Stand is constructed of high quality steel, with thick wall tubing, it's an ideal stand for use with almost any tool in various work areas. Adjustable stand height will satisfy different

www.homedepot.com

 

[Dreuxgrad]

I used a locking miter joint bit for the cased opening I did while doing wainscoting in the family room.
Once set up it did a good job with existing jamb and new wider board for fill on the wall.
Straight fence, setup jig, and pressure at the cut did the job. A stock feeder was a plus, but not essential.

 

[Wilsoncb]

I have a Makita track saw system. For cutting at an angle any track saw tends to want to tip since the saws center of gravity is shifted. The Makita saw has a tab you slide over to essentially lock the saw onto the track. It’s worked well for me and is very precise. The cost is between the Kreg and Festool.

 

[Chiefifd32]

I'll check the Makita, another favorite brand of mine.......I have their table top planer, I just love it....

 

[jgt1942]

I had the Festool TS55 and loved it. However, it died, and was going to cost $450 to have Festool repair it. I decided to go with the corded Makita and have been very impressed with it. I would still prefer to have the newest Festool TS55 but it is almost twice the cost. I did get one track with the Makita but so far I've been using my two Festool tracks.