Keeping the Lumber Against the Fence

Status
Not open for further replies.

Canuck

Wayne
Corporate Member
Never ever, don't ever pinch the work past the blade.
If the blade and fence are truly parallel AND the work is not harboring tension, then everything will work properly.
When I'm 'shaving' the edge, I'll use my thin ripping jig I showed you last week on another thread. And for short pieces you mention; if I didn't have my jig, I'd use one of my Grripers. However, since it takes me longer to adjust the Grripper than the jig...the jig is my first choice.
Short stock and thin pieces cause the most tablesaw accidents....Be careful and if you have the slighest doubt....don't do it!
If you need a step by step on the jig, just ask.....Joe

Built one Joe's thin strip jigs at one of his workshops a few years back. You are welcome to come over and take a look if you like.

Wayne
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Feather board in front of blade. Where you push on piece makes a difference. Think about where board is meeting most resistance. Right where the blade is cutting, but is this where your push stick is? Push stick should be inline with the blade to prevent rotational forces. Doesn't lend itself to use when using the guard.
 

cyclopentadiene

Update your profile with your name
User
I agree with he others regarding a feather board.

I also recommend purchasing one with the magnetic switches as they are very fast to set up and adjust as compared to one that fits in the miter slot. These are expensive but,worth the cost.

I use these with my sawstop and have never had a problem as the magnet is several inches from the blade.
 

sandfarm

Joe
User
If you decide that you are going to build a roller out feed table for your saw, try this.
The out feed that I designed and built works to keep the lumber against the fence.
The rollers are in a small angle installed in a frame.
When the lumber rolls over the out feed the angle slightly pushes wood toward the fence.

My next out feed will be in two parts. One angled toward the fence and one for the drop piece angled away from the blade.
The pull of the angle is not noticeable. You don't even feel it.

I have heard from others that using rollers in the out feed the saw blade tends to bring the wood back to you after the cut.
This angled out feed seems to eliminate that also.

Joe
 

junquecol

Bruce
Senior User
Mike, I have several of the Rockler feather boards, both single and double height. You are welcome to borrow some and give them a test drive on your saw. Like them, order some, don't like them, your only out the cost of gas coming over to my place
 

patlaw

Mike
Corporate Member
Bruce, thanks for the offer! I have the magnetic (and several other) feather board. It does help. I also have the Bench Dog push blocks with the angled handles. They help tremendously in pushing wider boards. What I think I've learned is that the 2x4s that I was having so much trouble cutting had some twist to them that I didn't see. The project they ended up in is not totally square, and the 2x4s have to be the components that are causing the problem. Since I don't have a jointer yet, I think what I'm going to do is make a straight edge jig and always run 2x4s through the blade with it first. At least one edge will be straight.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.

Premier Sponsor

Our Sponsors

LATEST FOR SALE LISTINGS

Top