Just plane flat? WARNING LANGUAGE

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
Interesting blog post - there is language so @ScottM or @Mike Davis if you think it doesn't belong please hard delete!!!

I was on the interwebs this morning and I am a member of the Wood By Wright Hive Mind and he posts some os Avisato.com blogs

This one was on the flatness of the sole of a hand plane - if you can ignore a little of the language - it really makes you stop and think!

 

Pop Golden

New User
Pop
Thanks Hank! Very good info. I can deal with the language thing. His blog explains a great deal that us WW need to know about planes.

Pop
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I get his argument, but not sure I buy it totally. No empirical measurements. That would be a not too hard to test.
 

bob vaughan

Bob Vaughan
Senior User
Nice read for sure.
My response was, "Its about time for a lot of silliness to be addressed".
He was far more tactful than I expected.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
I get his argument, but not sure I buy it totally. No empirical measurements. That would be a not too hard to test.
It makes sense to me as I have and use a #5 with pitting on the sole - it has ZERO effect when planing - I have often thought that the toe of a plan is too short since that is the "infeed table" or "register" for your cutting surface...
Oh, and I have seen light between the blade protrusion and the rear sole of the plane... so, there is that...
 

tvrgeek

Scott
Corporate Member
I think a tell would be to take a board, verified measurement end to end. Then plane it a bunch and see if you get a taper or bow.

I can see where final smoothing, taking off a thou., it may not matter, but when straitening a board, the long sole is critical. Otherwise, we could joint a board with a #3.

Might also think of a block or reabate plane where the way you hold it is always putting force on the heel.

On my jointer, I am taking 1/32 or so off. Way different from a final swipe of the #5.
 

Graywolf

Board of Directors, President
Richard
Staff member
Corporate Member
The physics of a hand plane verses a power jointer are similar but not. A lot of using a hand plane is in your physical technique. You can create a taper, a convex surface, or a concave surface simply by how you apply the plane to the surface of the wood. Your weight distribution through out the planing stroke will effect the out come of the planes performance. The hand plane like a chisel does what the operator tells it. As far as having a super flat sole on a plane, well it started out for me having to be as flat one could get it. That is what I was taught. Over time it has become less important and I get sort of close.
So, how do I get a consistent flat surface or a straight edge on a board. I have spent enough time with my planes that I know how they preform in my hands. I have a great deal of muscle memory and I know the faults in my body mechanics so I know what to watch out for and how correct or compensate for what I’m doing poorly.
Using these tools takes consistent practice and there is a lot tactile feedback from the materials you are working through the tool you are using. So when I’m trouble shooting the performance of a hand plane, I may start with the blade. Is it sharp, what’s relationship with sole of the plane, do I need to adjust it left, right, to little or to much blade exposer. Now that I have ruled out the plane as being at fault, I start with my stance, weight distribution, weight shifting. How am I doing these things, is it to little lower body and to much upper body involvement. trust me on this one if you are using to much upper body you’ll know it sooner than later. You will sleep well that night.
The only thing I have left out here is work holding. Solid work holding is essential in using hand planes. If your work piece is moving durning your plane stoke then it’s next to impossible to have an effective not mention a safe planing session.
 

JohnnyR

John
Corporate Member
I don't disagree but then why does waxing the whole sole make it slide so much more easily? Do we only need to wax those two 1cm points? I think not.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
I don't disagree but then why does waxing the whole sole make it slide so much more easily? Do we only need to wax those two 1cm points? I think not.
Funny, I was actually thinking about that and wondered what would happen if you only waxed the toe... I don't think it would work, because logically the heal of the plane is doing something, but it would be an interesting experiment...
Again, I wonder why Bailey designed a 30 / 70 design with the toe being shorter and didn't reverse it and make the toe the longer portion... many of the Japanese planes are made that way...
 

MikeH

New User
Mike
I know this is petty but the fact that this person is unable to use caps is really annoying. I know this is more of a troll statement and I apologize.
 

Charlie Buchanan

Charlie
Corporate Member
What he says about the flatness of the sole is true. It’s really not necessary to be “dead” flat.
However, the front sole is not the only reference surface in actual practice. Those who use hand planes to make spring joints know that you start a pass with the front sole in surface contact and end with the rear sole in contact as you raise the iron to end the cut before you reach the end of the board. In actual practice you apply greater or lesser pressure on various ends and sides of the plane body to get the result you want. You are making use of the difference between the depth of the iron and various parts of the sole to guide the cut to do what you want it to do.
 

Hmerkle

Board of Directors, Development Director
Hank
Staff member
Corporate Member
I know this is petty but the fact that this person is unable to use caps is really annoying. I know this is more of a troll statement and I apologize.
I noticed that too
 

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