Jointing Tips

[Jason Tetterton]

Hello everyone! First post on NC Woodworker. I consider myself new to woodworking. I got into it about this time last year and spent quite a bit of money (to me atleast), on what I consider to be decent tools. I have a Craftsman 10" cabinet saw with a cast iron top. I have a craftsman drill press, a craftsman planer, and a ridgid 6" jointer. I have been real busy with work and I took a break from it for awhile and I'm ready to get back into it.

I'm here today to ask for help with my jointing skills! I'm working on my first real project where I'm starting with rough lumber. I'm having an issue while jointing a 6x36x1 board. I've watched a few videos on youtube, as well as Marc Spagnuolo's (The Jointer's Jumpin'). I just can't seem to master the technique or I'm doing something horribly wrong.

I start with a rough board and I begin to surface one face at the 1/32" setting. I apply pressure to the board as it feeds out and try to keep pressure on the board as it passes along the outfeed table. I try to keep one paddle several inches from the blade.

My results are very discouraging. I almost always end up with wedge shaped boards. The blade surfaces a good portion of the the rough area and leaves the end still rough. I've attached a sketchup drawing of what I am seeing. Any help would be greatful!

Thanks,

Jason

View image in gallery​

 

[gator]

I am by no means a jointer expert or guru, but it sounds like an adjustment problem. Adjusting a jointer is not a highly complex procedure but it does take time and precision. I am not good enough with words to try to explain the proper procedure in a few words so I would suggest getting a good book on power tool adjustments (there a several out there) either from your library or by purchase, and go through a complete alignment.

George

 

[ChrisB]

I am by no means a jointer expert or guru, but it sounds like an adjustment problem. Adjusting a jointer is not a highly complex procedure but it does take time and precision. I am not good enough with words to try to explain the proper procedure in a few words so I would suggest getting a good book on power tool adjustments (there a several out there) either from your library or by purchase, and go through a complete alignment.

George

I agree with George that it may be an adjustment problem - you may find that the outfeed table is too low.

Chris

 

[Jason Tetterton]

Thanks for the tips, I'll find the manual and check all my adjustments.

 

[Dean Maiorano]

If you give up on the jointer, consider using a router and a straight edge.

I used to be shop manager at a sign shop and we made redwood/cedar panels up to 12 FOOT wide. They obviously were difficult to joint so I came up with 'shooting' the edges with a super long straight edge and a 2" CEL - 1/2" CED - 1/2" shank router bit. Worked like a charm.

Sure, you're boards are only 3' but if they're being a pain in the arse, consider your options!

 

[dancam]

It sounds like an adjustment to the jointer and also maybe a user adjustment. Make sure you understand the grain direction as well as which way the wood is bowed (concave vs convex). The below videos give some real good advice. The first is from our own Tom Hintz, the second is Mark S -WoodWhisperer and the last is Tommy McDonald --the new Norm Abrams). All are good and hopefully this will help.

Let us know how you make out.

Dan C.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u4W-JKYRbXY

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gO746cuRqV4

http://www.thomasjmacdonald.com/media/video.php?vid=e8d852282

 

[bluedawg76]

sorry if my answer seems too simple-minded, but i'm also a bit of a novice learning the basics. perhaps you're putting too much pressure on the board? generally, i put just enough pressure to keep moving the board along and let the jointer bed/knives do the referencing/cutting work. i think this point about the pressure is way over-emphasized. it's more about "pulling" the board over the knives from the outfeed side and keeping it stable (i.e. no tipping). also, cupped face down or up? i like down and expect to see the cuts at the ends of the board slowing moving towards the center. i worry about the board rocking if i go cup face up. Based on the board(s), you're jointing, where do you expect to see the planer cuts?

HTH,
Sam

 

[kooshball]

make sure both tables are in the same plane; could be that your outfeed table is running down hill. The only time I have ever seen this is when I fed the board upside down; make sure you if your board is bowed that the apex is up not down.

 

[jpaup]

Jason,

The description and sketchup you shared sound as if your jointer blades are set too low (below the outfeed table). This will cause a curved cut in your board.

 

[eyekode]

Jason,
It sounds like the tables are not coplanar to me too. I would guess either the outfeed is pointed slightly down or the infeed is slightly up. Adjust the infeed to be at the same level of the outfeed, unplug the machine and put a straight edge across it. Use a straight edge to judge if the tables are coplanar. The straight edge should touch and not rock when placed at the all of the following positions:
1) along the edge closest to you.
2) along the edge closer to the fence.
3) diagonally (both ways).

If it doesn't lay flat then you need to adjust the jibs to make the tables coplanar (assuming yours are adjustable). Your manual should be able to describe this. If they are not adjustable they could be shimmed.

Good luck!
Salem

 

[lwhughes149]

If there is anyone near you who can come by and look at your technique and your machine that would do you a world of good. My jointer came from the factory out of adjustment. I did everything the books and videos said but didn't get a good cut. Only after having someone who knew what to do come over, set the machine properly and watch me did I get onto the right track. On technique, remember to stand to the right of the blade and never in front of it as you make your pass. That gives you the proper angle for passing over the blade. Also, when you use unprepared wood where you do all the jointing, having a tablesaw that has the fence and blade parellel to one another is important. If the fence isn't square to the blade you will not get a good starting point for using the jointer. I probably could have explained this better but I hope it helps. You can second guess all day long but having someone come and stand with you and look at your machine was the most helpful to me. Welcome to the woodwork world.

 

[gator]

Jason,
It sounds like the tables are not coplanar to me too. I would guess either the outfeed is pointed slightly down or the infeed is slightly up. Adjust the infeed to be at the same level of the outfeed, unplug the machine and put a straight edge across it. Use a straight edge to judge if the tables are coplanar. The straight edge should touch and not rock when placed at the all of the following positions:
1) along the edge closest to you.
2) along the edge closer to the fence.
3) diagonally (both ways).

If it doesn't lay flat then you need to adjust the jibs to make the tables coplanar (assuming yours are adjustable). Your manual should be able to describe this. If they are not adjustable they could be shimmed.

Good luck!
Salem

Just one thing left out about co-planer. The infeed should be all the way up when doing this so that when you lower it to make a cut it is below the outfeed table.

George

 

[eyekode]

Lorraine,
Not sure I understand your instructions but as a rule I never take rough stock to the tablesaw. Always goes to the bandsaw for ripping, the jointer for flattening a face and edge, and the planer for surfacing the other face. Only then would I take it to the tablesaw.
Salem

 

[kooshball]

Lorraine,
Not sure I understand your instructions but as a rule I never take rough stock to the tablesaw. Always goes to the bandsaw for ripping, the jointer for flattening a face and edge, and the planer for surfacing the other face. Only then would I take it to the tablesaw.
Salem

Agreed; too much variation in the rough lumber and too great a chance you will bind up the blade and/or get some nasty kickback. Many times I just face joint, edge joint, then rip (clean side down, and square side against the fence), then plane. My logic is that I put less material through the planer that might end up being cut off later making it easier on the knives and the machine...just my $0.02. Either way, don't put completely rough lumber through the table saw.