Jig(s) workshop

[Joe Scharle]

Anyone else interested in a workshop (includes the guys here yesterday), send me a PM with your available dates and I'll set something up. I'm mostly retired, so weekdays are open.
In your PM, tell me which jig you want to make. Some of the jigs are fairly complicated and will need to be completed in your shops.
Here's a list of jigs I think are most useful, in order of complexity:

Thin cutting jig (splines, molding etc.)

http://www.ncwoodworker.net/pp/showphoto.php?photo=4835


RT Tenon jig



Tapering, squaring jig.



Dado jig

 

[Bas]

Joe, I've been thinking about the dado jig, and that looks like a really useful thing to have. But...it also is pretty complicated, and would probably take a while to finish. Even a 'simple' jig like the thin ripping jig took a whole afternoon.

Looking at the ones you listed, I think the tapering jig would be a great build. First, because I need one, but second because I think it lends itself well to assembly line construction. So that one has my vote. Or, split the dado jig into two afternoons, with homework in between.

Saturdays would be best, although with the upcoming holiday month I may be able to swing a weekday as well. Now if we could only locate some white MDF, we could decorate your shop in style for Christmas!

 

[Joe Scharle]

OK Bas, but
MDF niet meer!

 

[Joe Scharle]

Bas, (and anyone else) PM me a 'real' email that will accept large files and I'll forward the dado jig files so you can start collecting the parts and cutting the major pieces. I think 2 guys at a time will be max on that one. I'm thinking of modifing the plan now that mortising bits w/ bearings are available. Didn't have them way back when!

The tapering jig needs 1 piece of 3/4" BB 15" X 36" and 4 ft of T-track.
I'll put a list on this thread when I get it worked up. We can work with 4 people at a time on this one. This jig is machine specific for the runner, but I show how to do that on mine.
________________
For mounting your T-track we'll need a box of 6-32 X 1/4" machine screws and 6-32 T nuts. Flat bottoms are best at this size. Someone who travels near Wilder's could pick these up plus a small countersink, if they have one. I could not fine these at the BORGs last time I looked. Large c-sinks also ream the edges of the T-track. Let me know when someone picks up the hardware, then we can schedule.
________________
I can also be ready to go for the taper jig. Just let me know when. Does the plywood have to be BB?
NO it doesn't...Mine has a Melamine fence, so either is fine.
________________

 

[Bigdog72]

I can have all the parts and pieces for the dado jig by the end of the week so sign me up for the first dado class. The one thing I noticed that my be hard to find is a the piece of rod. Where did you get this?

I can also be ready to go for the taper jig. Just let me know when. Does the plywood have to be BB?

 

[Joe Scharle]

Trying to keep the info together, so I had to bump this. BTW, this thread will probably roll off soon, but let's keep it in the same thread for continuity.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I can have all the parts and pieces for the dado jig by the end of the week so sign me up for the first dado class. The one thing I noticed that my be hard to find is a the piece of rod. Where did you get this?
4 foot threaded rod is in both BORGs and some ACE h/w stores; just get a straight one!
I can also be ready to go for the taper jig. Just let me know when. Does the plywood have to be BB?

Melamine is OK.
When someone finds the screws, we'll schedule.

 

[Bigdog72]

"4 foot threaded rod is in both BORGs and some ACE h/w stores; just get a straight one!"

I meant the small (1/4"x5/16") pin that is located on the locking block.

 

[Joe Scharle]

I'll look around here for a piece; may have to saw a bolt. I'll let you know.

 

[Bigdog72]

For mounting your T-track we'll need a box of 6-32 X 1/4" machine screws and 6-32 T nuts. Flat bottoms are best at this size. Someone who travels near Wilder's could pick these up plus a small countersink, if they have one. I could not fine these at the BORGs last time I looked. Large c-sinks also ream the edges of the T-track. Let me know when someone picks up the hardware, then we can schedule

Joe and Bas,

I just ordered the 6-32 t nuts and screws (100 packs). Should have them by end of week.

 

[Turtlewood]

I just saw this thread.

I'd be interested in the taper jig, and if possible a crosscut sled for the tablesaw.

Especially the best technique for getting the cross cut sled squared up.

I'll PM with my contact info.

Thanks,
-Kevin

 

[Joe Scharle]

Here's the GET STARTED for the taper jig: Remember, it is designed to work from either miter slot. I never drew a plan, but these steps should work. If need be, I can send this to your real email.



Most table saws have about about 11+ inches between the miter slots. If this is your situation, the you can follow these instructions. If NOT, PM me.

1. Take a slab of 3/4" BB (melamine should work too) 13" X 36" and lay it snug and square against the blade on the LH side.
2. Make a mark on the leading edge of the slab, over the CENTER of the miter slot. Mark this edge as the LEADING EDGE.
3. Now place the slab snug and square against the blade on th RH side.
4. Make a mark on the LEADING EDGE over the CENTER of the miter slot.
5. Plow a shallow dado, CENTERED between these marks, about 1/16" deep, wide enough for YOUR miter runner (usually 3/4") BE EXACT.
6. Mount a runner; leave an inch or so protruding from the LEADING EDGE so you'll never confuse the LEADING EDGE. Mark with an arrow or something.
7. NEVER BE CONFUSED about what is the LEADING EDGE!
8. SEE 7
9. 5" from each end, on the top of the slab, cut a dado to accept YOUR T-track. Wide enough - deep enough for a snug professional fit.
10. Trim the Sides of the slab. Check that the blade is 90 degrees.
11. With the runner in the miter slots, LEADING EDGE first, trim off each side.
_____________________________________________________________

Rip a 2" wide X 36" long fence. Be critical that both sides are square and true. I think that I can cut the stopped dados here with the Woodrat easier than you can on your RT, but do it if you want.

When you've completed this, and have the knobs/handles/bolts/hold downs for YOUR T-track, send me an email and we'll arrange shop time.
Joe

 

[Bas]

Joe, not trying to be funny (I know, the world just stopped spinning), but I _am_ confused on what the leading edge is.

In step 2, with the slab on the table saw against the blade, and me standing in front of the table saw...is the leading edge closest or furthest from my belly? I think it should be closest, at least if your other jig followed the same logic.


Step 11 - if the leading edge was closest to my belly - does that mean you've now turned it around?

See why I need help?

 

[Joe Scharle]

Bas, the LEADING EDGE is the first edge to hit the blade.
It's the front edge, that leads the rest of the jig onto the table as you push from behind.
Conversely, the TRAILING EDGE is the edge that's sticking in your belly. So, you have to lean over from the normal operators position to mark the centers.

 

[Bas]

Gotcha. The leaning over part was the "unnatural" thing here in the equation, thanks for the clarification. :icon_thum This jig may be just what I need to _finally_ get cracking on my drill press table. Might as well cut grooves for both at the same time, and buy one sheet of melamine...

 

[Joe Scharle]

Sounds like Geoff and Bas will be ready to go soon.
I can be available Sat 11/22 if that works for you guys. We can finish the taper jig and I can look over the dado jig progress too.
Let me know.
And we'll need to bump this thread occasionaly to keep it sticky.

 

[sapwood]

. . . .And we'll need to bump this thread occasionaly to keep it sticky.

Or we could just make it a sticky :gar-Bi

Roger

 

[Canuck]

________________
For mounting your T-track we'll need a box of 6-32 X 1/4" machine screws and 6-32 T nuts. Flat bottoms are best at this size. Someone who travels near Wilder's could pick these up plus a small countersink, if they have one. I could not fine these at the BORGs last time I looked. Large c-sinks also ream the edges of the T-track. Let me know when someone picks up the hardware, then we can schedule.
________________
I can also be ready to go for the taper jig. Just let me know when. Does the plywood have to be BB?
NO it doesn't...Mine has a Melamine fence, so either is fine.
________________

Guys,

I was guilty of trying to use the wrong size of 82 degree coutersink my 1st time and did in fact score the edges of the T-track.:BangHead::BangHead:

I purchased a set of these awhile back and they are perfect for countersinking the 3/4" T-track.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&p=44708&cat=1,180,42240,42281&ap=1

You are welcome to use them at the next session. Just let me know.:wsmile:

Wayne

 

[Bas]

Hmm, 11/22 is too early for me, I have some stuff I need to get done around the house. The week after that it's Thanksgiving, which would be OK with me but I know lots of people have family coming in or are visiting family.

 

[Joe Scharle]

"4 foot threaded rod is in both BORGs and some ACE h/w stores; just get a straight one!"

I meant the small (1/4"x5/16") pin that is located on the locking block.

Rooted around and found the steel dowel stock.