Japanning a old Stanley plane

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michaelgarner

New User
Michael
Dupli-Color® Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black

Here is the link when I asked the same question.

http://ncwoodworker.net/forums/f30/handplane-paint-23117/

I used this paint on a Stanley #7 that went for Penny's on ebay because it was so rusted. I use electrolysis on it first, cleaned up the bubbled japanning that was left on it. Then reapplied with the paint. Looks a lot like original Japanning and resist scratches. I also know that the rust is completely off of the plane.

When I was first learning about refurbishing planes I learned a lot from Monty's site

http://shootingboard.net/

He is one of the WW masters here on North Carolina Woodworker. Have a blessed day friend.
 

zapdafish

New User
Steve
http://www.rexmill.com/

website isnt setup to link directly to his howto pages but click on handplanes 101 then look for whats japanning? in the links on the bottom half of the page.

He's got several methods you can choose from.
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
Dupli-Color® Engine Enamel DUPDE1635 Ford Semi Gloss Black

Here is the link when I asked the same question.

http://ncwoodworker.net/forums/f30/handplane-paint-23117/

I used this paint on a Stanley #7 that went for Penny's on ebay because it was so rusted. I use electrolysis on it first, cleaned up the bubbled japanning that was left on it. Then reapplied with the paint. Looks a lot like original Japanning and resist scratches. I also know that the rust is completely off of the plane.

When I was first learning about refurbishing planes I learned a lot from Monty's site

http://shootingboard.net/

He is one of the WW masters here on North Carolina Woodworker. Have a blessed day friend.

http://www.rexmill.com/

website isnt setup to link directly to his howto pages but click on handplanes 101 then look for whats japanning? in the links on the bottom half of the page.

He's got several methods you can choose from.

This post couldn't have been more timely! As I picked up a few handtools at yesterday's MWTCA meeting, for dirt cheap! Emphasis on Dirt:gar-La;. Definitely a restore project(s).
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
I waited to post until the real answers are here for collector tools. I have used Rustoleum semi gloss black in the small lidded can (not spray) for years and you would be hard pressed to tell which tools I have done it on.
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
What's the best way to "strip" the base of rust and paint (in order to re-coat/paint etc).

Chemicals?

Strip sand?

Sand blast, etc.....

Thanks!
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
I would strip sand using the little rotary attachement that looks like the skirt off a fishing lure using a varaiable speed rotary tool. I recommend the VS because the strips won't take much abuse at higher speeds (DAMHIKT :) ).

EDIT - Oh yeah, medium or fine grit only. The coarse one can cut a tiny trench if you pause.
 

jmauldin

New User
Jim
Where does one find someone who can do electrolysis? I have several hand tools that need that kind fo treatment.
Jim in Mayberry
 

Mike Davis

Mike
Corporate Member
We can get together and do that Jim, I have a couple tools that need it too.

All we need is a cheap battery charger and some washing soda.
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
We can get together and do that Jim, I have a couple tools that need it too.

All we need is a cheap battery charger and some washing soda.

Mike,
Why a cheap battery charger? Like one for cars?

Id like to try this at home (unsupervised w/o an adult present :gar-Bi).

Whats the procedure(s) Do I need OSHA, FDA, etc.. approval :gar-La;?

Thanks,
Matt
 

jmauldin

New User
Jim
Mike,

I have a battery charger, actually two, and I assume you mean baking soda. Let me know when you have time and we'll brew up a batch.
Jim
 

CarvedTones

Board of Directors, Vice President
Andy
Jim,

Actually, I think he means washing soda. (NOTE - The linked article below says either washing or baking soda will work with a slight preference for washing soda implied; other accounts I have read state a much stronger preference for washing soda)

Matt,

I may want to hook up with you if you do this. I promise not to act too much like an adult. :gar-Bi
I have a charger.

All:

Here is one article on it:
http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm
 

Tarhead

Mark
Corporate Member
Don't need to call OSHA or EPA unless you use Stainless Steel as your positive electrode. That can create some seriously hazardous heavy metal stew if you do. Old lawnmower blades or short sections of rebar work great.

The only place I found Arm and Hammer Washing Soda locally was at Harris Teeter. Roger (Sapwood) reported finding it at Kroger a while back. Don't waste your gas going to Wallyworld.
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
Jim,

Actually, I think he means washing soda. (NOTE - The linked article below says either washing or baking soda will work with a slight preference for washing soda implied; other accounts I have read state a much stronger preference for washing soda)

Matt,

I may want to hook up with you if you do this. I promise not to act too much like an adult. :gar-Bi
I have a charger.

All:

Here is one article on it:
http://www.rickswoodshopcreations.com/Miscellaneous/Rust_Removal.htm

Andy,
Great, Ill check out the link! Let me know when is a good time for you.

Thanks!

Matt
 

sapwood

New User
Roger
Washing soda works much better than baking soda. It's cheap but sometimes hard to find. IIRC add one tablespoon of washing soda for every gallon of water. Surround the rusty tools (you can have several tools/parts as long as they all overlap or touch to carry the current) with rebar, or my favorite, lawnmower blades connected in series with wire. Clip positive to metal surrounding the item and negative to the items to be cleaned. Turn on the battery charger and look for bubbles rising. The more bubbles, the faster the action. If the charger has a meter you can check the readout and reposition setup to max the action. The time needed varies widely with size of tool, rust, and setup. A small to medium sized tool may only take a few hours and overnite takes care of most items. The water turns brown during the process. Be sure to unplug charger before taking an item out to monitor progress :widea: Most of the rusted areas will turn into a grey-black gunk. Quickly remove as much as possible of the gunk with wire brush/scotch brite pad and a hose. Save the solution/bath as it can be reused indefinitely.

Is it time to post this pix again :rotflm:

Safety gear is optional, but I'm willing to make a deal for NCWWers :mrgreen:

electrolysis.jpg


Roger
 

Splint Eastwood

New User
Matt
Washing soda works much better than baking soda. It's cheap but sometimes hard to find. IIRC add one tablespoon of washing soda for every gallon of water. Surround the rusty tools (you can have several tools/parts as long as they all overlap or touch to carry the current) with rebar, or my favorite, lawnmower blades connected in series with wire. Clip positive to metal surrounding the item and negative to the items to be cleaned. Turn on the battery charger and look for bubbles rising. The more bubbles, the faster the action. If the charger has a meter you can check the readout and reposition setup to max the action. The time needed varies widely with size of tool, rust, and setup. A small to medium sized tool may only take a few hours and overnite takes care of most items. The water turns brown during the process. Be sure to unplug charger before taking an item out to monitor progress :widea: Most of the rusted areas will turn into a grey-black gunk. Quickly remove as much as possible of the gunk with wire brush/scotch brite pad and a hose. Save the solution/bath as it can be reused indefinitely.

Is it time to post this pix again :rotflm:

Safety gear is optional, but I'm willing to make a deal for NCWWers :mrgreen:

electrolysis.jpg


Roger

Roger,

Sweet, I think I have one of them there Buck Roger Helmets:rotflm:.

Thanks for the info fellow space traveller!
 
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