Jammed bit in impact driver - tricks for removal? Success!

[Henry W]

EDIT - bit successfully removed - End Edit

I have an 18V Hitachi impact driver that has been a flawless performer for me for a few years (or is it a Metabo? I bought it in the transition...).

I also have a set of Bosch driver bits that include a few 'double ended' choices (I neglected to get a pic). I needed a square drive (Canadians know them by their real name - Robertson) and that driver bit was what I had, so I used it. It's actually not the first time I had used it, and I did not have trouble before. However now that driver bit is stuck in the tool.

I can pull the collar up on the 'collet', but the driver bit does not release.

Any tricks out there for removing said bit?

 

[Gotcha6]

I have this issue frequently with the bit holders that use the stubby bits. I usually have to give the bit a light tap, or run the driver in reverse against a screw. The problem is that the hex shanks often bind against the driver socket, and have to be loosened. Only one or two clicks of the impact driver should do it. HTH

 

[Gofor]

Dennis' solution also works for me in my DeWalts. It is a frequent problem when I use a nut driver or socket adapter as well. If you don't have a fastener to sink the bit into for the reverse trick, you may have to use vice-grips.

 

[Henry W]

I have tried the light tap... but not the run in reverse. Will try that! Thanks (may need to use a vice-grips).

 

[Gotcha6]

Once you get it out, you may try to find some bits that are impact rated. They are usually harder than standard bits, and do not deform on the corners. The socket in the impact driver should not wear that quickly.
Stay away from all HF and any DeWalt made from aluminum bit holders. DAMHIKT......

 

[tvrgeek]

I always use a short magnetic extentipon in my tools. So when a bit jams, it is the extension I can beat on. Usually Milwaukie extensions.

 

[Oka]

The receiver side are often too cheap or soft and deform. Look to find one that the ferrule is made of steel instead of aluminum or brass. That usually will end this issue.

 

[Henry W]

I always use a short magnetic extentipon in my tools. So when a bit jams, it is the extension I can beat on. Usually Milwaukie extensions.

Well I have fired all my 'magnetic' extensions. Too otten I have dropped a bit while up on a ladder, into landscaping, these are just not secure enough. DeWalt offers locking extensions - that are my go to. These are like the collet in the tool, in that you have to pull back a collar to release the bit. No more bits into the bushes for me.
Except here the prob is that I did not use extension, and now it is stuck in the tool!

 

[tvrgeek]

Not had that problem. I also glue a magnet across the base of my tools to hold a couple of bits. Phillips, Torx, Square.

 

[Bas]

Hmmm, wonder if it's feasible to put the tool in the freezer, then heat up the collet faster than the bit to get it to expand just a hair. Obviously you can't use a blowtorch, but some metal wire and a battery might do the trick.

 

[mpeele]

I have a Bosch impact driver which on occasion won't release the bit. I just give the holder a shot of LPS 2 with the ring lifted. Then grab the bit with pliers and yank. If it doesn't release I grab the bit with my metal vise lift the ring and yank. That usually releases the bit. I think curd get behind the retainer ball such that the ball can't retract enough to release the bit. After I get the bit out I give the holder it a shot of compressed air.

 

[Woodman2k]

Put the tip in a bench vise leaving enough room for a pry bar and the rest should be easy. after removal throw the bad stuff away and buy impact rated stuff from Home Depot during the Christmas shopping season and don't look back.

 

[Henry W]

Put the tip in a bench vise leaving enough room for a pry bar and the rest should be easy. after removal throw the bad stuff away and buy impact rated stuff from Home Depot during the Christmas shopping season and don't look back.

yup, this is an impact rated Bosch bit.

 

[Henry W]

Thanks all for the ideas. Success!

.... give the bit a light tap, or run the driver in reverse against a screw. ..... Only one or two clicks of the impact driver should do it. HTH

Well Dennis of all the tips suggested, I decided yours sounded best to try first. It took more than a click or two; several iterations of reverse, then fwd, then rev, then fwd .... all whilst trying to grip the driver bit with a small 'channel-lock' - but it worked! The impact driver provided more torque than I could contain with my grip. I did not attempt a vise-grip, but that was next if the Channel-lock did not work.

Lesson learned - No more double ended bits to be used in anything but a Jacobs type chuck (rare for me, the speed of the 1/4" hex chuck is great).

... won't release the bit. I just give the holder a shot of LPS 2 with the ring lifted. ...

And for the uninitiated - what is LPS 2?
I am usually pretty good at acronyms but can't come up with this one

 

[gfernandez]

Thanks all for the ideas. Success!



Well Dennis of all the tips suggested, I decided yours sounded best to try first. It took more than a click or two; several iterations of reverse, then fwd, then rev, then fwd .... all whilst trying to grip the driver bit with a small 'channel-lock' - but it worked! The impact driver provided more torque than I could contain with my grip. I did not attempt a vise-grip, but that was next if the Channel-lock did not work.

Lesson learned - No more double ended bits to be used in anything but a Jacobs type chuck (rare for me, the speed of the 1/4" hex chuck is great).


And for the uninitiated - what is LPS 2?
I am usually pretty good at acronyms but can't come up with this one

lps 2 - Google Search

 

[mpeele]

And for the uninitiated - what is LPS 2?
I am usually pretty good at acronyms but can't come up with this one

LPS 2 is a is a non-drying heavy duty penetrating lubricant rust inhibitor water displacement product. It is one of three products(LPS 1, LPS 2 and LPS 3) by ITW I have used for many years. If you own a salt water boat or costal property you probably know and love the stuff. Not cheep and not easy to find but superior to everyones favorite WD40. LPS 1 is basically a lighter film drying version of LPS 2 with a rust remover. You can get them on Amazon or most hardware stores in costal areas where rust and corrosion is a real problem.

 

[Gofor]

We used a lot of LPS 3 on the interior compartments of aircraft to prevent/retard corrosion. It is a good product. The LPS 2 also works good for coating tools being put into storage.