It's ALIVE!

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NCPete

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Pete Davio
pictures to follow soon, my 6 YO son and I finished assembly this morning, made sure everthing was lined up all correctly, and then "pop" went the breaker. I had had my wife turn off the TV, it somehow shares the garage circuit, because the CMS will trip the breaker occasionally with the TV on. I didn't think the TS would trip the breaker with the TV off, but I still had a clock radio plugged in, and on, just enough to trip the breaker. Unplugged the radio, and WaLa! (yes, I did remember to turn off the saw before I reset the breaker). Making sawdust!
This is FUN!
I know, photo's will follow soon, I now have camera permission from SWMBO. ;)

Pete
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
Pete,

You are definitely going to want to get that circuit split and running on 20 amps. Tripping with a miter saw is one thing but a much bigger problem with a TS. It's a safety concern and you will also ruin some cuts when that breaker goes in the middle of a rip. It sounds like time to run a new circuit.

NCPete said:
pictures to follow soon, my 6 YO son and I finished assembly this morning, made sure everthing was lined up all correctly, and then "pop" went the breaker. I had had my wife turn off the TV, it somehow shares the garage circuit, because the CMS will trip the breaker occasionally with the TV on. I didn't think the TS would trip the breaker with the TV off, but I still had a clock radio plugged in, and on, just enough to trip the breaker. Unplugged the radio, and WaLa! (yes, I did remember to turn off the saw before I reset the breaker). Making sawdust!
This is FUN!
I know, photo's will follow soon, I now have camera permission from SWMBO. ;)

Pete
 
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NCPete

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
Here they are:

oh never mind, they will be posted to my gallery, after editing they are still to big to post here. Perhaps I can link them from there?
 
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NCPete

NCPete

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Pete Davio
Steve D said:
Pete,

You are definitely going to want to get that circuit split and running on 20 amps. Tripping with a miter saw is one thing but a much bigger problem with a TS. It's a safety concern and you will also ruin some cuts when that breaker goes in the middle of a rip. It sounds like time to run a new circuit.

yeah, that is a project now that I have the TS. I had put it off, knowing I would have to eventually. My garage is wired with ONE outlet at the floor level, and one more in the ceiling to power a GDO. Lighting will also be a concern, and prolly done at the same time. With 200 amp service, my panel is not even half full, and it is right there in the garage, so I am not even going to wire in a subpanel, I think.

Prolly run some new 220 then also, not sure which outlets to use for that. Remember seeing in one of the wood--- mags about wiring 110 and 220 in the same box... anyone?????
 

Steve D

Member
Steve DeWeese
NCPete said:
yeah, that is a project now that I have the TS. I had put it off, knowing I would have to eventually. My garage is wired with ONE outlet at the floor level, and one more in the ceiling to power a GDO. Lighting will also be a concern, and prolly done at the same time. With 200 amp service, my panel is not even half full, and it is right there in the garage, so I am not even going to wire in a subpanel, I think.

Prolly run some new 220 then also, not sure which outlets to use for that. Remember seeing in one of the wood--- mags about wiring 110 and 220 in the same box... anyone?????

I don't believe code allows it but it would be a bad practice to put 110 and 220 in the same outlet box anyway. You can get 15 or 20 amp 220V outlets and plugs at the big boxes, your power requirements will dictate which to use. I wouldn't use twist lock, especially if you are on mobile bases. Make sure that you keep your lights and outlets on seperate circuits; you don't want to lose your lights if you trip a breaker. GFI protection will also be required by code and you can feed several standard outlets from a GFI outlet. Keep an eye of Harbor Freight, they regularly have GFI's for around $5-6. Even the name brands are sourcing those out of Asia or producing them in Mexico so the quality differential is pretty much gone.
 
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NCPete

NCPete

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Pete Davio
yeah, I think now that I have them in the gallery, I could put them in the forum posts as well. but I couldn't upload the size I had directly into the post as an attachment.
 

Monty

New User
Monty
NIIIICE!!!! You've got pics, so I guess it really DID happen! :icon_thum Hope you get that breaker thing straightened out. I also hope that 200 amps is plenty, cuz that's what I've got too!!! :oops:

110 & 220 in the same box... I think it can be done if you run 12/3 instead of 12/2... both hot leads to the 220 and only one to the 110, with a negative back to the panel box + ground. Probably not worth the trouble and confusion. If you get your colors wrong.... not good!!! 8-O I have no idea if it would meet code requirements.


As a matter of safety, though, I would caution against using the miter gauge and the rip fence together like you're showing in this pic:

HPIM0677.JPG



Because the fence is so close to the cutoff piece throughout its travel, that little piece can get crooked and trapped between the blade and the fence - causing a kickback! The splitter and blade guard would probably go a long way toward preventing injury in this situation, but I wouldn't want to test it!!!

If you want to use your fence to make repeatable crosscuts (as I often do), use a stop block like this:

stand_off.jpg



That way, even if the cutoff piece goes crooked, it won't get squeezed between the blade and the fence... hope this makes sense! :-?


Anyway, enjoy your new tool! :mrgreen:
 
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NCPete

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
Thank you, I was thinking about setting up a stop block for cuts like that, because that did concern me. time to get more smaller clamps.
 
M

McRabbet

User not found
And those 6" Irwins shown in Monty's picture are perfect for the task -- I found some at Lowes just before Christmas in a 4-pack for $19.98 (gloat) -- they are usually $9.98 each. And with that precious partner in the house longer than you, I would lock out the saw whenever you are not there to keep "Daddy's Little Helper" from embarking on a project of his own. Run the blade down, unplug it or better yet, lock it out completely!!!
 
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NCPete

NCPete

New User
Pete Davio
looking for the lock mentioned in Jet's documentation. The shop is locked up, not that that keeps a boy approaching 7 out. the saw gets unplugged immediately after use, good idea about locking out the saw completely. I may also unplug the connector to the motor until I can get the lock for the switch.

Maybe there is another reason to get a sub-panel for all the planned shop machinery. One switch could kill everything except the 'house' lights. Shoulda picked up the book on residential wiring while at the library tonight.
 
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