Installing Blade Stiffener On Table Saw

[Wiley's Woodworks]

I've been having more burn marks from my table saw than I feel I should. I read that microscopic vibrations in the 10" blade could be happening, even though it's a sharp Forrest WWII, so I ordered a 5" stiffener. It's really just a precision machined tool steel washer. The blade is held in place by a much smaller (~1 1/2") machined washer and a large nut. That's universal. My ?: Do I install both the large stiffener and the stock washer or leave off the stock washer?

 

[skyline933]

Mount with normal arbor nut and washer

Dampeners & Stiffeners for Most Table, Panel and Radial Arm Saw Blades - Forrest Saw Blades: Quality Saw Blades & Dados

Dampeners and Stiffeners for saw blades helps reduce cutting noise and vibrations on the blade. Helps maintain rigid blade for better cuts and keeps the blade true.

www.forrestblades.com

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

Thanks Jim--I found the same page and noted where Forrest states "install with normal arbor nut and washer". I also found a You Tube that shows using the normal washer on top of the stiffener. One additional thing that recurred frequently is be sure all surfaces--blade, stiffener, arbor washer, and nut are perfectly clean of any debris. I wiped down everything with mineral spirits before installing. I will post a product review after using it.

 

[Martin Roper]

Wiley, is that a narrow kerf blade or full kerf? I switched back to a full kerf blade and haven't regretted it. They're much stiffer and less prone to deflection.

 

[skyline933]

Thanks Jim--I found the same page and noted where Forrest states "install with normal arbor nut and washer". I also found a You Tube that shows using the normal washer on top of the stiffener. One additional thing that recurred frequently is be sure all surfaces--blade, stiffener, arbor washer, and nut are perfectly clean of any debris. I wiped down everything with mineral spirits before installing. I will post a product review after using it.

And… you’ve checked alignment of fence to blade, at both low and high positions of blade? This burn occurs during ripping?

 

[petebucy4638]

And… you’ve checked alignment of fence to blade, at both low and high positions of blade? This burn occurs during ripping?

I was going to post exactly what you posted. I see so many table saws where the table, blade, and fence are not properly aligned.

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

My Powermatic 66 w/5hp motor is set up properly, the riving knife/kickback guard is perfectly aligned with the blade, and every aspect is calibrated square. The fence fall off was set by pushing it against the front teeth without deflecting the blade, then inserting a piece of waxed paper at the back teeth and adjusting the fence until the paper wouldn't fall through. I use a Forrest Woodworker II (40 tooth) that is sharp and clean.

I just ripped ~40' of white oak. I got fewer scorch marks, and when I stopped the feed to pick up a push block I didn't get a gouge out at the stopping point. My subjective observation is that the stiffener improves the cutting, but it is not bolt on perfection. I believe speed of feed has as much to do with scorch marks as anything, and I know I tend to feed slowly out of an abundance of caution. Next time I will speed up my feed.

 

[junquecol]

My Powermatic 66 w/5hp motor is set up properly, the riving knife/kickback guard is perfectly aligned with the blade, and every aspect is calibrated square. The fence fall off was set by pushing it against the front teeth without deflecting the blade, then inserting a piece of waxed paper at the back teeth and adjusting the fence until the paper wouldn't fall through. I use a Forrest Woodworker II (40 tooth) that is sharp and clean.

I just ripped ~40' of white oak. I got fewer scorch marks, and when I stopped the feed to pick up a push block I didn't get a gouge out at the stopping point. My subjective observation is that the stiffener improves the cutting, but it is not bolt on perfection. I believe speed of feed has as much to do with scorch marks as anything, and I know I tend to feed slowly out of an abundance of caution. Next time I will speed up my feed.

The WWII isn't the best blade for ripping. When I was building cubbies for local "Y", I did a test of blades for ripping 1/4 X 3/4 soft maple strips to edge plywood. Blades were as follows: WWII, Freud 10" combo, Freud Glue line ripper, Delta 7657 ( 40 tooth general purpose blade,) and an old Craftsman blade. Best cuts by far came from Freud 10" Combo blade, which surprised me I thought for sure the WWII, or Glue Line blade would have produced the smoothest cuts with least burning. Constant feed rate was the real key to best cuts though.

 

[Rwe2156]

I agree you don’t have the best blade for ripping white oak. You definitely got the power, a 24T ripper would go like butter…..

I‘ve found blade stiffeners are of limited use in full kerf blades.

 

[tvrgeek]

Yea, big difference when I out on a full kerf rip blade. I also went 40, 60 ,and 80 fil for crosscut. As good as these all-in wonder blades are, they don't match the dedicated blade.
Of course, it does not take much gum on the teeth to give burn marks.

 

[Willemjm]

I have used a blade stiffener for as long as I can remember. Came with the original blade that I purchased with the saw. 20 years later, that blade is still going, sharpened once.

I use the arbor washer also, as it makes good engineering sense.

On which side of the cut are you getting burn marks? The side of the dimensioned cut, or the offcut?

 

[Wiley's Woodworks]

I have used a blade stiffener for as long as I can remember. Came with the original blade that I purchased with the saw. 20 years later, that blade is still going, sharpened once.

I use the arbor washer also, as it makes good engineering sense.

On which side of the cut are you getting burn marks? The side of the dimensioned cut, or the offcut?

Both, but I'll guess it's 70% dimensioned and 30% offset.

 

[Willemjm]

Both, but I'll guess it's 70% dimensioned and 30% offset.

While a stiffener is a good idea, I don't think it will help with burn marks. You will just get a cleaner cut, with less blade marks.

I'm not that good with replacing blades or having them sharpened, so I use my blades for 1000,s of bf of lumber. That said, with a dull blade I only get burn marks on the offcut side. (not the fence side)

The difference here is I always toe my fence out, most folks have a different opinion about that. But that was what I was taught 50 years ago and what I have always done. It is safer as well regarding kick backs. So typically my fence is toed out 1/16" across it's length. Even with a dull rip blade, I still get a joint line quality cut.

 

[McRabbet]

Lots of information here, but in my experience, a slight toe out on the fence (as Willem said) reduces any chance of kickback and burning. The other key factors are the feed rate and the blade being used (crosscut/combination/rip) and their sharp. I keep a sharp Forrest Woodworker II 40 tooth combination blade with a full stiffener on my 3 HP Grizzly cabinet saw for most use and change to a sharp rip blade (I have both Freud and Leitz blades) or an 80 tooth Freud crosscut for crosscutting. The type of wood will also make a difference -- cherry can burn easily because of the sugars in the wood. In all cases of ripping, continuous pushing at a moderate pace will yield good results. Pausing allows heat build-up and the chance of slight side movement that will promote burning.

Always use a push stick and complete the cut in a steady motion. Your saw has plenty of power and you will experience more heat build up with a slow or paused cut. I suspect you may be cutting too slowly or your blades may need sharpening.

 

[Oka]

I agree my back of fence is .006 wider than at center between the blade and fence